Roxanne: 1985 Cj-7

to upgrade to a dana 44 now would be a twice what this is going to cost and a hell of a lot more labor. And I really don't think that the ring and pinion is going to break before the 297 ujoint would, i mean its got an arb which beefs up the carrier and only 3.73 ratio so the teeth are still fairly small compared to 4.56 or a lower gear tooth, so i think there is still plenty of contact points to not worry about it. I know that the 7 1/8" ring gear as well as still being 27 spline isn't the most hardcore thing anyone has ever seen, but it is going to be fine for the future plans and for my kind of wheeling.


it also looks like i'm going to get a pair of 4340 yukon chromo shafts with 297 u-joints from an individual off pirate for $100! :gigem:

what experience do people here have with ballistic fab and expecially there high steer arms. I will be having them make me a custom set for the stock cj tie rod ends and would ilke some input as to how reputable they are. Thanks

Top notch fab parts. I've had great service from them and quick shipping.

Balla, they have really gotten their **** together over the last year!

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Originally Posted by 85cj7

the guy with the axle shafts flaked, he sold the whole axle locally. Damn. oh well back to square one on the axle shafts/

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Buy new yukon shafts? I think it was only like 150 for a D44

edit- never mind, Its like 320 for the set I ordered from Broncograve yard and it doesn't look like they are even yukon any more.

If i have to buy new ones, I think i'm going to go with superior, i'll just call them up and see how much an inner set would be.

ballistic fab is shipping the arms and studs/cones/washers out today. The grand total was $206 exactly. Not bad. I ended up getting the tre end holes drilled out to 17/32" and then i'm going to ream them out myself. I think Flem's going to hook me up with a mill sinse i already have the reamer.

A tapered ream? Is it on one of the angled holes? If so you'd better be decent on a mill or else the ream is going bite and shatter the ream. You might be better off using a hand drill.

the arms came in today, they turned out real well except for the fact that they didn't drill them at all. The centers are marked for where holes are supposed to be, but nothing. So instead of shipping them back and dealing with that crap i'll just take the 10 min and drill them myself before reaming them.

i've been searching around for the chromolly inner axle shafts i will need to run the 44 outers and it seens like randy's ring and pinion is the cheapest i can find for driver and passanger side inner 4340 chromolly yukon shafts with 297x760 u-joints its $288 including shipping. If anyone can find me a better deal please post up.

i went ahead and ordered the shafts from randys r&p today , they should be in on friday, the total was like $286 or something. That is the last expense over $50 that i have to do on the soa conversion. But the remaining things are small and plentiful it should take around another $400-$500 bucks to have everything done.

I got the shafts in today from randy's r&p, total cost was $277. And went out and picked up some 297x760 u-joints for $22. I didn't realize how much larger they are than a 1310. No wonder they are the weak link they are down right tiny. Now i'm concerned about having 1310 driveshaft u-joints after comparing them with the 297s.


Is there a large strength increase when using full circle clips instead of conventional c-clips? And if there worth it, where can I buy just the clips?

I wouldn't worry about it, the driveshaft sees only 1/4 of the torque that the ujoint sees

the collection continues.

What are peoples opinions of rotor dust shields? I'm thinking of cutting them off of the caliper brackets, because the ones i have are beat and its just more stuff to get in the way?

every time I go to Gilmer I get rocks stuck between the rotors and shields. I say cut them off, its easy on those since they are pertty much spotwelded to the bracket.