Its cool. I try to stay away from branches, or anything else that might damage my Broncos paint or body anyway.
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Its cool. I try to stay away from branches, or anything else that might damage my Broncos paint or body anyway.
So that's what you were doing last year, trying to wash it in that 'little puddle'. ;)
I never seemed to have good luck with my CB, it is a regular cobra cb and 4 ft antenna with 12 ft coax. The antenna was mounted on the toolbox, could the cab blocking it have hurt it? Also I have heard that 18ft coax is better than 12ft. Any CB experts? Oh yeah, I had the antenna tuned or whatever also.
Also, anyone know a good site that shows what vehicles use a certain lug pattern? I am lloking for some cheap wheels to replace the crappy looking ones on my little chevy.
I was always told that cb antennas are tuned from the factory using an 18' coax (if they are non-tuneable models). The cab will block the signal a bit. Not having a 'clean power source' hurts alot of folks. They end up with alternator noise and have to add in so much squelch to quiet it down that they can't pick up a decent signal. Our local cb guy (who is a semi-quadriplegic by the way) has always told me that mounting it as close to the center of the vehicle is best. If it's at one end or the other, it will not pick up/transmit signals as good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
:flipoff2:
Nice catch cocks. :flipoff2:
The CB in the humma would never transmit anything I said, but it would pick up all kinds of signals.
It was a cobra with an 18 ft coax, mounted on the back panel just above the spare tire.
Of course, I never did seem to have much luck with any mobile electronics :blackgrin:
Does anyone know if all Dana 44 hi steer arms use the same bolt hole pattern to bolt to the knuckles?
99% sure they are all the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
i never had a problem with my old Cobra 25 and dual 4ft antennas(see hikeschool).
i was also sporting a 100w linear, so that might have had something to do with it :D
yes they are all identical. Some d-44 arms will have an optional forward 4th hole to mount them to dedenbear aftermarket knuckles.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Sweet now the frickoneer will full hi-steer. I got both arms stud kit and conical washers for.
Crewcab is overheating a little. At around town speeds (under 50) it stays around 200 like its supposed to. At highway speeds it rises to ~220 and stays there. I replaced the radiator and thermostat today and its still doing it. I drove 4 1/2 hours with it running at ~220 and it didnt seem to cause any problems, but it has always held 200 with everything working. The only other things I can think of are the fan clutch and water pump. I replaced the pump around 2 years ago and it isnt leaking but I've never messed with the fan. Is 200000 hard miles a reasonable service life for a fan clutch? Is there a way to diagnose it for sure?
Might helpQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...22.html?page=2
I would think that it's not the fan or clutch if it's holding that temp at highway speeds. There should be enough air moving through the rad. to keep it decent. I would think water pump. With that many miles, a fan clutch might well be in order though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Temp gauge?
Dont have any reason to suspect the gauge. I had to replace the sender awhile back when I did my headgaskets but the gauge seems to function fine. Depending on the price I'll probably try the fan clutch first, or maybe just say **** it and put a piece of tape over the temp gauge.
Alright the hi steer arms I picked up don't look like they are gonna work. My driverside knuckle has the factory taping used for the stock dodge push/pull steering. The passengerside was probably done before Robbie had it in his jeep. It seems like the bolt pattern on the new hi-steer arms is the same as my knuckles.
The problem is when I try to line the holes in the arm to the holes in the knuckle the end of the arm where the tie-rod/draglink goes is touching the tire/rim. The crossover arm I currently have clears the tire by about 3/4 of an inch. Do different companies use radically different designs?
Right now i'm running 15x8 wheels with 3" of backspacing with 15.5 wide tires. I think the arms might be parts mike because the box for the studs says so. Any thoughts on this problem?
Get wider rims?
lets see some pics. I know what you are saying but don't understand why this should occur. Although high steer arm designs are different by manufacturer they definently shouldn't have this problem. Don't your high steer arms taper in towards the centerline of the vehicle. For instance when I went highsteer on the jeep I had to shorten the tie rod by about an inch because the aftermarket arms were narrower than the stock knuckle location.
ill try and get a pic tonight, but it seems that these arms would actually make the tie rod/draglink longer instead of shorter.
Use wheel spacers. Done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
< ------------------ :gigem:
just buy good ones.
If I end up not getting them on I will not get wheel spacers I will just stay with my current crossover steering.
High steer is for suckers. I never needed it. Not like it gets you any better performance than crossover does.
Single ended ram mounting:
I would like to mount my PSC ram with the fixed end atop the axle tube and the ram end atop the tie rod. This would keep it protected from rocks. The problem is the angle that it puts it at in relation to the TR. I realize the closer to parallel the better, but what is an accepted angle? Mounting it on front of the axle tube, and the backside of the TR would make it almost parallel, but the scratches on my tie rod mean the ram will get taken out eventually.
The heims on each end of the ram need to be in the same plane right?
Does the ram end of the ram need to mount in the center of the tie rod?
The axle is a balljoint 60 with the tie rod at about the axle tube center line. No high steer, just crossover. The distance between the tie rod and axle is 8" and the ram, heim hole to heim hole, fully 'collapsed' is 17".
Advice?
Anybody have a ball joint press I can borrow, or want to help me out sometime?
Sharpe does, or at least I have heard that he is good at pressing them (balls and joints that is) to his forehead
you can get them from any parts store, you rent them and then you get all your money back when you return them, like any other rental tool they have
I dont have a balljoint press.
some thoughts.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Thanks Ed.
What about turning the ram around and mounting to GLO diff cover?
That would work good. They are pretty stout. It would be a pain if you need to take the cover off, but not too bad.
Personal preference I don't like mounting it to the diff cover. On the 44 and the first ram in the 60 before I got good steering i mounted the ram btween the axle and tie rod. There was barely Enough room but it worked. When u got better steering I flipped the tr over the top of the knuckles and mounted the ram a little higher on the axle. There should be some pics in my members rigs or build up thread for big nasty. At full turn to both sides the distance between the ram mount on the tie rod and the radius arm cap was close. Hope this helps some.
I have a warn 12,000 lbs winch. I do not have a hook for said winch. Where can one purchase a 12,000 lbs rated hook? On ebay they are rated for like 21,000 max, with a work load of 5,000.
I would check Pierce Winch in Henrietta Texas.
Where are you guys buying foam to cover roll cage bars? I see some people use house pipe wrap, but that looks ethnic. Any ideas?
I can get you 2 1/8" pipe wrap. I have been using it for years. Birds will pick at it, but it still does its job. Klogger is a little ethnic. I can bring you a couple 6' pieces to Clayton if you want.
If you have room, I wouldn't mind a stick or two myself John. I will definitely trade for crown/beer. ;)