I originally had a cable operated one when I had the 350. After a while it got gunked up and would never shut all the way. Have an electric one on there now since I've had the 383 and it works a lot better. Granted it costs a ****load more too.
Printable View
Butterfly style electric dumps
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php
Unleash the power
The Man got me down. :mad: Had to move Pigpen to the backyard today. I'll do as much as I can back there (fuel, wiring, etc.) and then roll him back out for all the world to see (in a few weeks)!
I thought it was licensed and registered? Tell them to F#@$ off
It is but it has been inopperable since late Feb. which makes it a "junk vehicle." Word in the hood has it some old fag down the street has been complaining to the city about it and thats why I've been getting hastled. He must be bitter that hes old and gay and lives on such an awsome street.
probably that damn hippy on the bike
hey watch it :flipoff2:
has to be operational
sorry, missed the last few before posting up.
Trying to figure out what I need for the electronic pedal assembly is a *****. The parts guy from LaRoche chevy told me I needed the pedal assembly, TAC module and 4 different pigtails to kludge together for a grand total of $454.34. **** THAT. I will probably go to Doggett's tomorow morning and try to find a used one. The price on the module and pedal assembly werent too crazy but **** if I'm gonna spend $170 on wiring that *might* work.
I checked out eficonnection.com and they have the exact harness I need for $40. I'll try and find the pedal and TAC tomorow at Doggetts and probably order the harness.
check with these guys. they prolly have a few laying around.
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/
I got the pedal and a TAC module that I hope will work from Doggett's for $100. I havent been able to find any info on whether or not TAC modules are universal, so I'm not positive this one will do it. The pedal should work. The only problem was that it had a ~5" offset to the passenger side. It is easiest to mount the pedal where the factory one mounted on the firewall, but with the base of the electronic pedal mounted there, the pedal itself was on top of the tranny tunnel. To remedy this, I cut the bent portion out of the pedal shaft and welded in a straight piece. I actually had to angle it to the driver's side slightly in order to place it where the factory pedal was. Its all just tacked together right now, so if I can find a footprint pedal before its time to drive I will swap em out :gigem:
On to cooling issues. I am going to run a small block radiator and ironically enough, I dont have one. I want to use a SBC one so I can narrow my core support to the width of the frame to keep from bashing it any more. If I have to buy a new one, it will not have any coolers built in, to make it as cheap as possible. I will be running an externall tranny cooler sourced from a Ford esploder and am planning on blocking off the oil cooler lines. My thoughts on blocking the oil cooler lines off is that I wont be doing any towing, and high speed driving will be minimal so I dont really see the need for it. Plus that will eliminate a little clutter in the engine bay. An LS1 block off plate will work and is $5 from GM, yay.
Still workin on finishing the floor. I should have bought or made a press brake...
how about this one http://corpuschristi.craigslist.org/tls/781931936.html
I'd be interested in a brake. We'll need one soon for some bus work. Is anyone come up from there or does someone have one?
ive got 2 big pieces of angle that could be made into a brake
David if you want to try to get that one I will be going down there for the next two weekends.
im down here and will be up for the Miami game if yall are interested in it
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...6dfb8e926c3142
here asshole, do i need to wipe for you too?
Blankensh!t found some other website that had them cheaper like two weeks ago. You FAIL. Asshole.
ha ha :p VICTORY.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=SIL
i think this is the one.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...y_Code=SIL-STR
why dont yall just yell down the hall way instead of showing yalls gay love on here?
is this thing going to be done by clayton
It is 90% done. It still needs exhaust (my biggest concern right now), intake and some electrical.
For the intake, my original plan was to run a 90 degree exhaust elbow off the throttle body, then another 90 degree elbownext to the motor to have the filter chillin over the passenger side valve cover, all connected with silicone hose sleeves. The bend radius on the exhaust elbow ended up being too big and it didnt even come close to fitting under the hood or between the radiator. I have a silicone 90 with a much tighter bend being overnighted, should get it tomorow. Hope it fits. I would just run a short fat filter like Lynda's jeep but on the 8.1 the throttle body is angled up and my radiator is much closer to the front of my motor, so there's no room for something like that. Plus I need to stick a MAF sensor in there somewhere.
Exhaust will be done at the Rusty Muffler in Bryan. Hope they have a decent turn around time, dont really have any other options right now.
Electrical, just need to finish re-doing tail lights and electric fans, then loom and ziptie everything up. Hopefully I can get that done tonight after work.
Right now the motor is turning over easily and sounds good, but wont start. Flem and Robbie helped me check fuel (got sprayed in the face by ~75 PSI gas on the rail, yup...its good to go) and spark, both of which were there. The fuel pump relay was clicking on and off really quickly for some reason when the key was on, but not when cranking. The injectors were also not firing.
We finaly narrowed it down to the Throttle Actuator Control module. Its a little black box that plugs in between the electronic pedal assembly and the computer. My motor didnt come with one and I was not able to figure out whether they were a universal application or not through online searching. I got one from Doggets when I got my pedal but I dont know what kind of motor the truck it came out of had. With the current one unplugged, the fuel pump relay stopped clicking and the injectors started firing, but it still wouldnt start. Flem dumped about a quart of gas down the throttle body and after almost blowing Blankenships hand off, the muthafuka actually started. It ran rough as hell but it has no O2 sensors, MAF, or a funtional accelorator pdeal right now. With no pedal I couldnt rev the sh!t out of it, which took away a little bit of the satisfaction of it actually firing up. This all happened today but after it fired up initially and we figured out the problem, I had to go to work. I spent almost 45 minutes on the phone trying to track the right TAC module down. That damn thing costs $200 from GM and I wouldnt be able to get it until Thursday morning, not gonna work. Luckily Chris at the University O'reilly's found one for me in Houston and it should be here by noon tomorow.
I also lost all the pieces to connect my Art Carr shifter to the trans but called them this morning and am having them overnight the kit so I damn well better get that tomorow as well.
Its getting there!
Rusty did mine in a couple hours.
Agreed, Rusty is quick, especially if you tell him the timeline.
Oh yah my front driveshaft is prety much ****ed. The CV at the t-case output is almost maxed out sitting at ride height. I'm probably going to end up running a limiting chain on that side to keep droop to 1-2." Sucks, but it WILL blow up the CV if I dont. My 1310 pinion angle also sucks. Basically, the front driveshaft is expected to blow the **** up eventually. I have a few spare shafts in the back yard and am going to try to whip up a spare square tube shaft before we leave, but at the very least I will bring the materials so I can construct it on site if neccesary. I think I'll try grinding the corners off one of the factory CV's I have and see if that helps. I'm not holding out much hope though.
I have a 1350 CV shaft that looks identical to my High Angle rear one but I cant use it without getting High Angle's proprietary output flange. And to use that flange, I have to swap the front output of my t-case out for a 32 spline Ford one, which I have at my shop back home. Clarke and I were discussing welding a kustom adapter plate onto my current output flange so I can use the 1350 CV for now but I'm not sure I like that idea.
You have alot of **** to do in the next 2 days.
dont plan on being here before 2 as i will be napping
go to Rusty, best guy in town.
Yikes....good luck to you sir. Kind of reminds me of when RJ was finishing up the power steering swap on the trailer in the campground in Las Cruces.
Got the TAC module replaced and
IT RUNS
Earth shatteringly loud at that. 496 cubid inches sure makes alot of noise :gigem:
Got it dropped off at Rusty's and I drove it straight off the trailer onto his lift. He said getting it done by tommorow would be no problem! Still lots left to do :laughing:
Driving it around the yard was an interesting experience in itself. Obscenely overpowered. The electronic pedal is prety sensative and it sits way too high, if I have time (unlikely) I might redo it. Not a high priority.
Hell yeah! Congrats man!
One year, someone needs to be working on their vehicle while it's on the trailer.
The MAF is in there and they have much smaller ones.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalo...talogMAIN.html
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