really funny, only works on fullsizes or jeeps w/ stock width axles. Your tires would stick like 2 ft from the body,
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really funny, only works on fullsizes or jeeps w/ stock width axles. Your tires would stick like 2 ft from the body,
I guess I really wouldn't call it dovetailing. Basically I'm going to start the bend at the b-pillar then bring the corner of the rear fender to where the corner of the tailgate/tub meets. If you look at the third pic you can see a line where the sheetmetal meets near the bend past the reverse lamp. That edge will meet with the seem of the tub where the tailgate opens.
I think that qualifies. Seems like a lot of work for nothing. I'm in no place to talk about cherry rigs, but are you really that worried about a few dings on the rear corners?
If you are just looking to do this for nothing more than some more fab experience and have the time and resources, than I say go for it. Yes, I agree w/ Creighton and David, I think that it may not be worth it, but I aint gotta wrench/pound on it when it gets busted up and broken either. ;)
I think you'll have to roll the Jeep to touch those rear corners on anything... The inside of your tire is almost even with the outside edge of the body as it stands. It seems like that would be pretty low on the to-do list, even just for cosmetic reasons.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
Thank you for giving us the definition of dove tailing :flipoff2:
You may not think you are giving up much storage space when you do it but think about all the things you can mount on the fenders...co2 bottle, spare shafts, tools, cooler, etc. something it really going to have to jut out for you to hit your fender like it is now or roll...which in that case its going to hit no matter what. Like Davido said, sounds like a lot of work to be losing more then you might gain.
Makes sense, even with the new rear part of the cage I'll be doing there won't be all that much room. The main reason for doing it would be for tire clearance at full flex. But I'm making some new rear shock towers this week/weekend to help control the tire rubbing I had at Katemcy, not to mention once I build my traction bar. The other thing I didn't like was the old gas inlet hole on the right side but I can easily patch it. Another thing I'll be doing as a part of the tube work will be running tube from the "S"/B-pillar along the edge of the fender following the lines until it ties into the btf stretch frame plate on each rail.
Pulled the th350 and 203 from the frame as well as the springs and other things I plan to sell off or reuse. Chopped the frame and the rest up with the plasma, made some pretty designs in the rails... :D Took the tractor and piled it all on the trailer to haul off and organized everything I kept in the shop. I'll find out tomorrow if I'll be able to get the tube work done before TCC.
I went home this afternoon to see my mom and help with a couple things around the farm. While I was there I cleaned around in the shop and pulled the Jeep off the trailer and took it for a spin down the road. Drives nice but at higher speeds and with no windshield or goggles my eyes began to water due to the wind. Anyway, I grabbed my mom and she took some pics of me doing burnouts in the street. I thought it was pretty cool and so did she until I kept it going and did a donut around her. This is for all you haters that said my 4.2 has no power... :flipoff2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oolCars046.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oolCars043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oolCars042.jpg
4.2s dont have power, thats all photoshopped... wait till you get the 383 to do burnouts :flipoff2:
Gearing doesnt count.
thats no smoke....
that motor still sucks :flipoff2:
you only did such awesome burnouts cause that cage is so aerodynamic :flipoff2: :gigem:
I do what I can... It wasn't a Ranger or Caprice burnout though.:gigem:
The 2nd and 3rd pics were from the first burnout but my mom wasn't satisfied, (hence the previous burnout marks leading to donut in the first pic).
You're halfway on the road and halfway in dirt, these pics suck you're not a Duke Boy. Creighton showed you up, and if my Scout could've stayed in first this would have been way smokier. Come back when you have some Chevy power *****!
Wrong... It's all pavement up to the grass, the "dirt" you're seeing is just leaves, gravel, etc. I will admit they were small burnouts, but having my mom take pics of it made it cool. I would've stayed on it until they started white smoking but she didn't think that was such a great idea...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
Wait a minute! You're no Duke Boy either using water as an aid. I think Creighton's burnout should be void as well since he used a compact car spare tire. Smokin' 38"x15.50"s with a 4.2 is a little different, get in the game son! :flipoff2: Oh and I got my block back from being bored and have the stroker kit and everything else ready to assemble. 383 will be ready to go in, in no time.
There was no water where I was smoking it. See how it stops just behind my truck and doesn't really extend out to the tires? I didn't think the Scout would white smoke it until I tried it, but it did it easy. I just wish it would stay in first, because it shifted into first at 3K RPM or so. If I could have kept it just under 4k and modulated, the smoke show would have been awesome, but once it shifted into second the smoke went away and it wanted to cruise on down the parking lot. The 4.2 is gay, get the SBC in there.
:flipoff2: 4bangers are where its at
Made some "adjustable" rear shock tower tabs, need to weld them on. Also got the fittings I needed for my fuel cell, it's in and ready to go.
We should start a burnout thread...
we did burnouts with three different vehicles in the dexter cul-de-nut sac this afternoon
ide win.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Here's a couple pics of my block after I got it back from being bored and the good's. I painted it silver for a different look than the standard black or chevy orange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC00009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC00008.jpg
I painted mine silver too
you should paint it green to make it match the cage
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
what?!?! you got something done?
I think you should change your screen name :flipoff2:
Yeah this guy has more money in his engine than I do in my whole truck. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
too bad you didn't find a different motor to do that to if i remember correct there wern't to many miles on that one, you should have found a junker ot rebuild considering all of the new parts
There is some peace of mind of knowing whats in your engine. I put 3 different 302's in my 86 bronco that were "rebuilt". I think the longest an engine everlasted was about 30,000 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
The Jeep's as ready as it will get for TCC. Fuel cell is in, fuel lines, rear shock mounts welded in, and rock sliders welded on for now. In time I will clean them up by bolting them on with torx heads or something else to give it a cleaner look. For now they'll keep the rat rod look with an unfinished surface and tack welds.
I might need to think of a new name, I need something more fitting. Overall, since beginning the hunting and collection of parts for the upcoming final buildup summer I've managed to keep costs relatively low. That's not to say this has been "cheap" but it's really no one elses business.
When I began the motor build I checked the block numbers and found it to be an 85 crate motor. After tear down and inspection it proved to be just as Colman said, low miles and little use/wear. I purchased the stroker kit through a wholesaler which came with everything I needed to build it right. The rod's are Scat 5.7" forged 4340 with ARP 3/8" 8740 bolts. Scat series 9000 lightweight 400 crank 3.75" stroke. Speedpro Hypereutectic dished and coated full floating +.30 383 pistons. Engine Pro RV cam and double roller timing chain, Mellings high flow oil pump. I'm using the stock heads ported and polished, stock rocker arms or roller tips, etc. Intake manifold is an Edelbrock Performer with a Quadrajet 650cfm 4bbl. It'll be a great setup combined with the th350, 203/d20 doubler, and dodge 60's with stock 4.10"s welded f/r. It won't be crazy low gearing but I'm fine with that. I know some might question the durability of the 203/d20 doubler but I've researched it thoroughly via "BillaVista's 203/d20 article" and I'm not concerned. I'll be staying with the relatively low cost theme by using parts that I already have such as the 203/d20 and welded stock geared 60's.
Saturday after I ran out of mig wire...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/Home001.jpg
Today
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/Home002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/Home015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/Home010.jpg
you should know by now that on these forums, anything you post here is everyone's businessQuote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
did you make those sliders or buy them
I got them from Scott a long time ago. He told me that a friend of his made them and that he had intended to use them on Lynda's CJ but they were too short (made for a CJ-5). I had to notch them with the plasma in order to fit around my cage and I welded some maltese crosses on the sides opposite of the Texas.
yep - those sliders are sweet
I got em' from a cool dude. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
I remember you telling me about fastening them with some nice looking hardware like torx heads. I'm going to do that and make it look clean once I add some tube steps and paint em.
why dont you weld them to the body in the speed holes, that would look sweet with some good welds