Carpet on your back patio. . . . It's the only way to roll.
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Carpet on your back patio. . . . It's the only way to roll.
http://stores.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTSQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
We don't need to know about your personal grooming habits. :flipoff2:
Getting everything finally wrapped up. I still need to skin the bottom with 1/4" plate
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I went to start the jeep up to drive it out of the garage and the serpentine belt was squealing like a b*tch and smoking. . . . . . . After some investigation it seems that the smog pump pulley seized. I yanked that POS off and capped the tubes. Then switched the belt to a 71" 6 rib belt.
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Why was it ever installed to begin with?
Pulled it outta the garage to dust off the cobwebs.
Didn't have any brakes. Swapped out the master and re-made a few lines that I was never happy with and all is good.
Also installed final front bump stops so the drag link would stop rubbing the frame. I used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with some 3/16" plate and 1.5"x.120 tubing and should be good to go now.
I also picked up some 1/4" plate and need to make up some skids to protect the underside.
Other than that and a few cases of beer it is Shiloh ready.
Winch rope and aluminum fairlead.
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New rear axle tie down points.
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Finally got the x-case shifters properly mounted.
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New lines and '68 corvette master cylinder.
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New front bumpstops
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Why a corvette master cylinder? Because it bolts up to your booster or does it works well?
Yes - that's what I'm running in Lynda's too. Made for disc brakes front and rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
does it have enough volume for 3/4 ton calipers?
Yes. I've been running one since 2010 and have liked it. (1994 yj booster, 1968 corvette master cylinder, willwood adjustable proportioning valve, chevy 3/4ton calipers front and rear). My old master cylinder died while it sat in the garage this year. I think I had some water and mud in the fluid and that didn't help. I flushed the system and replaced the master (as well as a few lines that I was never happy with) and am good to go. . . . it might need some more bleeding.
Does anyone have any interest in purchasing the Jeep from me? I'm thinking it over. Send me a PM if you are interested. Thanks.
I would be interested but you would not like my offer
Shoot me a number. I have an idea of what I think is realistic but I also want to gauge the market. . . although maybe not the Colman market.
That is why I am not going to shoot you a price, because I know it is worth more than what I would want to offer right now
Can you throw up a quick list of specs. I wouldn't mind getting another one for my brother.
There definitely isn't a build thread that you could/should read if you wanted to buy this thing tate.
standard offer. 50 bucks. Can you take a check?
****ing why?
I'll buy it if you add a 3rd b pillar
Tree fitty?
Good luck with the sale buddy. I have loved this jeep since the first time it went to 47.
1985 CJ-7 Build Sheet
General Specs:
-Titled 1985 CJ-7 with Ford V-8, built axles, 37s and lots of custom touches
-Slightly modified original CJ-7 body (tried to keep the classic Jeep look)
-Slightly modified original CJ-7 frame (custom spring hangers/shackle mounts, rear crossmember, center skid plate, trans and anti-wrap bar crossmember)
-Not currently registered or inspected but there is no reason it cannot be. Until recently I had it registered as an antique with no inspection required.
Engine Bay:
-1990 Ford 302 H.O. V-8 from a GT Mustang
-K&N Cold Air intake
-Smog Pump Eliminated
-Slimmed down Ford harness spliced into stock Jeep harness
-Aftermarket shorty headers
-2.5 2 into 1 exhaust with dynomax straight through muffler
-PSC hi-flow Saginaw pump
-PSC steering reservoir and heat sink cooler
-140 Amp G-2 Alternator
-Dual Taurus Electric Fans (one thermo controlled, one manual controlled)
-3 row radiator
-Late 60s corvette brake master cylinder to YJ brake booster
Suspension:
-Brand new Rubicon Express 1.5 SOA YJ leaves sprung over in the front
-Chevy 52 sprung over in the back
-1 redrilled spring perches for front and rear stretch
-Total wheelbase 99.5
-Rear 2 tube anti-wrap bar with johnny joint mounted to tube crossmember
-14 travel shocks all around (Rancho in front and Bilstein in back)
-Ford F-250 shock towers on all 4 corners
Axles:
-Front: -Chevy Dana 44-HD from late 70s K-20.
-Narrowed 4 on long side to run 80s waggy stock shafts
-Superior 4340 Chromo inner and outer axle shafts (stock set as spares)
-Yukon super u-joints with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings
-Hi-steer with reverse highsteer arms and ARP studs (moves the tie-rod to the back of the axle)
-1.5x6.75 PSC hydro-assist ram and PSC ported/tapped steering box (aftermarket steering box mount and brace with waggy pitman arm)
-Warn Superior lock-outs
-4.88 gears and welded spider gears/carrier
-1310 output yoke
-3/8 differential cover
-1x0.25 DOM tie road and drag link with 1-ton Chevy tie rod ends
-63.5 WMS
-Rear-Custom 609
-Stock late 70s Ford 9 housing
-Stock early 90s Ford E-350 Van Dana-60 hubs and spindles
-Custom Moser 35-spline 4340 chromo shafts
-Complete aftermarket Moser centersection with 4.88-gears, Daytona pinion support, full 35-spline spool
-Late 70s Chevy disk brakes (controlled with Will-wood adjustable proportioning valve)
-1350 output yoke
-60 WMS
Drivertrain-
-NP-435 4-speed manual transmission from late 70s Ford (4wd).
-Aluminum Novak Conversions adapter with built in transfercase clocking ring
-Completely built Dana-300 transfercase
-JB conversions 4:1 gears
-JB fab twin sticks
-JB conversion 32 spline front AND rear output
-Custom aluminum deep sump (stronger) bottom pan
-Hi-angle rear 4 bolt 32 spline output flange
-1350 front output yoke
-Rear driveshaft is brand new 1350/1350 CV 2x0.25 DOM
-Front driveshaft is modified stock Jeep shaft. 1310/1350 conversion joints. 1.75x.120 DOM
-Total Crawl ratio in 1st gear, low, is somewhere near 130:1
Exterior-
-Custom rock sliders/tube fenders/front bumper stinger. 1.75x.120 DOM
-PoisonSpyder base CJ-7 cage with many extra bars added 1.75x.120 DOM
-Seats tied to cage/frame with 1.5x.120 DOM
-Cage tied to frame with 1.75x.120 DOM and Polybushings
-Front Ό custom cowl armor
-Rear Ό custom tub/side armor
-Front and rear bumpers are 2x4x0.125 wall box tubing
-Front Superwinch LP8500 with aluminum haws fairlead and synthetic rope (90x3/8)
-Decent Maroon paint job with minor trail damage but no major dents (Very clean Jeep)
-Removable windshield with hinge pins
-Cage has a 1/8 sheet metal roof
-Round-Eyes headlight conversion
-Square LED waterproof rock lights
-17 Hummer H2 Aluminum wheels (4)
-37x12.5x17 old style MTRs (some dry rot, lots of tread, decent shape) (4)
-Black cloth half-doors
Interior-
-Corbeau Racing Seats (tied to cage)
-4 point harnesses
-Stewart Warner Gauges (Fuel and Temp do not work)
-Custom flat dash
-Hurculined interior tube (black, decent shape)
-Rubber floormats
-Rear plastic tool/storage box
- Tuffy lockable center console bolted to cage/frame
-15 gallon aluminum fuel cell, half sunken in the rear cargo area
-Custom rear storage (fuel cell shroud)
-No AC and No heater
There is nothing wrong with or broken on this Jeep. Just ready for a change or something with AC/heater/top and possibly 4 seats. I may trade for a Jeep M715, Commando, or 90s Cherokee but really I am interested in cash.
Aw. :( Sorry to hear you're selling it.
You know they make tops for Jeeps and you can add heat and A/C...or if you want to be cool, get an FSJ. :gigem:
The long side shaft on the d44 is 74-79 nt fsj
Did I miss the price?
http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread...225#post780225
That is the "I'm not sure I want to sell, but money talks" price.
I hope it sells at that price! If it does I am kicking my own ass for selling my buggy at $10K!Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
fifyQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I wish you luck in this, and not to be a jack ass, but my neighbor's CJ took some time and his was a 1979 CJ with 44" tires, Dana 60, Chromo shafts, LS engine, Atlas transfer case, narrowed rear, air shocked and linked rear for 14k, and it was equally clean, maybe not as original looking
I sheared a 9/16" ARP stud off the drivers side d-44 high steer arm/knuckle. I must have put it in a bind and hydro assist took care of the rest.
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I would bet that they were loose. Check the torque on the bolts next time before you put it on the trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
On my 60 those loosen up, have to hit them with the impact. I guess it's not the stud that loosens, but the nut... That and t-case bolts once you get some gears in them don't seem to like to stay tight.
The jeep was looking a little run down. A few coats of Rustoleum hammered black and some black vinyl spray paint and we're looking good again.
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Crushed the tail lights in clayton. 4.5inch hole saw and some cheap amazon leds and we're back in business.
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Found a good deal on some new rollers for the jeep. It'll hold down the driveway nicely.
17 inch raceline beadlocks and 39.5x13x17 iroks.
Also mounted a new set of 14inch bilstein 5125 for the front.
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Pimp, oh and iroks suck!
Need to body work the old bolt hole a little more.
Did they come with a man sized front axle to?
Rims look nice!
Cracked the can on the PS pump in Clayton (which was the reason for the whining pump/vomiting fluid). Cracked at the upper fitting. PSC rebuilt the pump and replaced the can and are shipping it back to me.
Also sheared another d-44 high steer arm stud off. . . . same side/same stud as before. Pulled the knuckle off and worked the broken stud out. Damn things keep loosening up. Went ahead and replaced the balljoints and spindle bearings since I was in there. Replaced the high steer studs, cones and nuts and red-Loctite them into place.