Have not torn apart the carb yet and the line going to the car flows freely. I'm going to assume it's an issue with the carb just seemed funny that it only happens in first gear. Not sure how exact my fuel mix is, I just go buy the bottle
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Good to know.
Edit: Well weirdly enough, the light came back on today immediately after filling up at Sam's. I'm extremely confused.
Edit 2: So last night I pulled the fuel pump fuse for about 30 minutes to reset the PCM, to which it responded with throwing three more codes that also aren't for my Jeep until I cleared them and reset my speedo (I was going 0 mph everywhere). I'm hoping that the PCM was just being retarded and my next fillup will definitely be somewhere other than Sam's. The original code it was giving me was for bank 1 sensor 3, but I don't have but two sensors per side...
Any other ideas?
-6 or -8 AN fittings for the transmission cooler lines on my truck? Which would be better?
-8 would be better less restriction
Jic is cheaper and Napa has the fittings in stock. The only problem is rheyre not red and blue.
JIC is steel fittings right?
JIC and AN are not identical. There are minor differences in tolerances in the root the thread. For your application it won't matter AN or JIC.
Do you already have the cooler? if not it doesn't matter if the fitting are in stock or not order them when you order the cooler and they are probably cheaper than buying fittings from NAPA
It's not super high pressure either. You can just use barbs and hose clamps
Using the stock cooler, adding an inline filter on the cooler and doing new lines instead of trying to flare the stock steel lines. Absolutely not using hose barbs and bulk hose. My torque converter is trashed and when I put the new one in I don't want the clutch material to stay in the transmission.
http://www.dieselsite.com/1999-20037...tersystem.aspx you might have seen this but see if you can copy
Changing ball joints on a 2wd torsion arm truck (2006 duramax). . . .
Do I have to unload the torsion arm before seperating the knuckle from the control arms?
I am pretty sure they are preloaded, so yes.
Yes, IIRC. I just replaced my top ones. But I had replaced the keys before then, so maybe I'm confusing it. Should be easy to find the steps. IIRC, the lowers are a lot harder to change and you have to back off the torsion bars so that you can raise the upper to clear for ball-joint removal.
I am putting a 231 behind a th350 and need a 27 spline input. Anybody know if a 27 spline input from another case-205,208 etc will work? Trying to bypass the $200 input from advance.