Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
no problem, maybe at the next meeting.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
no problem, maybe at the next meeting.
When I turn the key to the ON postion, I get all power. Fuel pump, radio, everything. When I try to make the motor run, nothing. Motor does not crank, nothing. I put a screwdriver to the solenoid and it starts up, I drive it around, no problem. But if I turn it off, then I have to pop the hood and ghetto-start it.
I dropped the column down to replace the switch and when I turn the key, the rod does move down like it is suppose to.
could your battery be a little weak? That could cause the circuit through the switch to the solenoid to cause just enough drop for it not to start. Make sure the switch is actually giving you voltage at the solenoid wire, if it is, wire in a relay so you get a good 40 amps to the solenoid. It's a good idea anyway
check continuity across the switch when you press it down.
hmmm...cant remember if mine did the same thing or didnt do anything at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
the solenoid would at least click if it was a low battery...if it was so low that it wouldnt do anything, then the electrical stuff wouldnt come on at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
yes, you just described the "clicky starter fix". my scout has this problem. im too lazy to fix it. has something to do with 33 yr old wiring.
holy crap you three guys made like ten posts in this thread while I was posting that. I'm getting rusty...
i must comment that i never thought of adding a relay in and supplying the solenoid directly from the battery. wouldnt take much wire on a ford since the solenoid is right next to the battery.
relays rock!
Thanks guys. Unfortunatly, I am pretty useless when it comes to electrical lingo and how it all works. I assume by continuity, you mean does the wire have the same voltage before the switch as it does after?
The battery is chinche, but has been good thus far. Like I said, it fires right up every time at the solenoid and all power works. I ran the radio for several hours the other day and it started right up (via screwdriver)
the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay? put a meter on the positive small terminal on the solenoid and have somebody crank it. if you get no voltage you have a wiring problem somewhere in the column or dash
john(brown) i think its actually called an actuator rod. pull one at work and then compare it to yours and where it should end. i have a feeling that you will have to pull the column apart anyway. one easy check would be to check the voltage at the column plug. if your not getting coltage there either then it has to be something within the column.
shorter wires...Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
by continuity he means is the wire continuous. you should have a continuity setting on your voltmeter. unplug the column harness and find which wire runs to the solenoid. then get a long wire and hook one end to the input of the starter solenoid. run the other into the cab so that you can easily hook up both ends to the voltmeter.
clear as mud?