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Super it drives much better now with shocks. Drove it around the block, but I need to do an alignment as the steering was a little crazy. Didn't want to go to far as I know one of the u-joints in the rear is bunk.
Edit: How do ya'll normally do alignments? I think the last time I used two pins and measured from across the front, then rotated and measured across the back. I think I set the front about a 1/4" less than the rear?
I set the front at 1/8" less than the rear. I just measure to the same spot on the tread. Your way would be more accurate because the tread may not be straight. Too much toe in gets me the death wobble.
i set mine at 1/8th as well and all is good
I measure off the inside of the rim. dead on was the best for me with sloppy heims, I've heard of 1/8" toed out working well for MTs
Ok glad I made it to 47, figured out what I need to fix and I had fun. Also I got seat time which I haven't had in a while.
So here's what I need to fix:
Steering. Sometimes it worked well, sometimes I couldn't turn at all. I plan on putting in a new pump as this one whines and is quite cranky. It's life time warrantied so why not. I plan on rebuilding the box, I found a website about a rebuild, doesn't look to bad. Anyone ever done this? I'll probably tap the box while I have it out, but just put plugs in it as I probably won't have enough time to do ram assist.
Bumpstops/limiting straps. These springs are annoyingly soft. They droop so much that the top of the spring hit the tie rod on the passenger side. They also compress so much that driver side spring hit the pitman arm.
Plan on ordering these bumpstops today. bumpies
Also, I'm going to make new spring plates so the bump stops have a big, flat area to come in contact with. I'm also going to reinstall the overloads while I have all this crap out.
For limiting strap someone said get a seatbelt and sew it up. I think that sounds good or I could sacrafice a tie down strap. I'd just have to make some ends with a loop for the strap and a bolt hole. I'd probably take them to an upholstrey (sp?) shop to get sewn.
I broke the conversion u-joint within a minute of locking in a hub. I never even gave it any gas, I was just idling up one of those washed out cracks. The tires should have easily slipped on that wet ground before the joint gave out. I'm guessing it must have been defective. At any rate I'm ordering a 1350 pinion yoke for the D60.
How about u-joints. Where can you get them without the zerk fitting?
Also, how about u-straps (Edit:U-bolts, the ones that go throught the yoke and bolt behind)? Last year I just bought them in the help section. I found some on an old yoke, and they were fine thread and looked alot beefier than the help section ones. Anyone know where to get the beefy ones?
I think thats it... Should be good for clayton with those modifications.
You talking about straps or u-bolts? Since straps don't have threads I assume u-bolts. Get the ones from orielley's but not from the help section. Just give them the application of something that used u-bolts. If this is for the 60, ask for some for a 79 F-350 4x4 rear axle, then check that they are right. They're cheaper than in the help section, look much better, and have a lifetime warranty if you care on a $3 part.
ok, didn't want to confuse them with the ubolts on the axles... So yes the the ubolts that hold the caps on the yoke. Thanks kopecki.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
If you are getting the 1350 yoke from Northwest fab like I recomended, they come with u-bolts instead of straps. For tapping the steering box, I wouldnt recoment doing it on the side like is "normal". Some people on CK5 had problems with their tires hitting the box and ripping the fittings off. You can tap the top plate of the box, and buy a new end cap with a tapped hole in it. This is the route I intend to go when I get to that point. Check out the vendor section on CK5, there is a guy who sells a kit with the cap and a prety *****in looking ram for a decent amount. I know you already have the PSC ram but he sells the caps and hoses seperate too.
for the ujoint without the zerk fitting, precision's heavy duty ujoints dont have the fitting on them, should be able to get them from anywhere, and precision also makes the ubolts and straps for the pinion
I've seen the "cap" I could probably make one pretty easy. Where do they tap it on the top plate? Or where is the top plate for that matter?Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I'm just going to get a stock 1350 yoke being that I have a 1310 CV at the tcase.
Thats what I thought. When landon used to work at O' Reilly's i'm pretty sure he got me them, however most of the part store monkey's that aren't familiar with 4x4's know **** about u-joints. At the Bryan O' Reilly's they had know clue what 1310, etc.. meant they just looked at me dumbfounded.Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
Hell the first guy that I asked for u-joints brought me out into the store and showed me u-bolts. I again asked for u-joints and obvsiouly had no clue and shoved me off onto the gothic looking 16 year old chick. She than shoved me off onto another person. I was there for a half hour until I just told them to try a 3/4 chevy. Then I called flem and he said to try a 1 ton chevy. I finally got what I needed. They also didn't know the difference between external and internal snap rings.
After going out and looking at the steering box I think i know what you mean by top plate. I'm assuming it's the plate that holds the sector shaft in?Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
ive got a napa catalog I will get you the napa partnumber later
How many other plates are on the steering box :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
ban him!Quote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
I didn't know if he just meant a flat area on the top of the box somewhere.
Anyways, anyone got a picture of this? Or do you just tap it anywhere.