I go out cruising, but I've no place to go and all night to get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrvr
Is it any wonder I'm not a criminal?
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I go out cruising, but I've no place to go and all night to get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrvr
Is it any wonder I'm not a criminal?
Seriously wtf are all those clamps accomplishing in the picture?
holding the dash while glue dries. I think the glue machine at the rover plant must have jammed a lot because its pretty common for discovery dashes to curl up after a few years of sitting in the sun.
All the heavy **** on the dash is holding the other half down. I wouldn't have fixed it, but I had to replace the AC recirculation switch and since the dash was already apart I went at it.
I didn't take a before pic, but heres a pic of one that isn't as bad as mine was
http://www.simmonites.com/images/cur...oard%20300.jpg
What kind of glue secures a dash?
I don't know, I used gorilla glue. Its not the actual dash, its the padding and plastic coating on it. It separates from the dash "frame"
I hear that stuff works on anything, I just didn't know if there was some special glue that was used on dash plastic.
I thought it was some kind of gimmick glue for women until now. Seems legit, definately some sort of cross linking going on as it cures. The bottle says it needs water to activate and its a ***** to scrape off the flash after it dries.
Its pretty badass for sealing cardboard boxes.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Works decent on wood, not so much on any metal I've tried. If the surface isn't rough/porous, it's worthless. And it expands a lot.
I see a new direction for one of the three. Roast the tyres!!!
One of them needs new cats, so I'm thinking about putting those ****ty hedman headers on the 95 and putting its y pipe on another one. If mr. inspector gives me crap swap out the y pipes for an afternoon to get it to pass.
needs trailing arms and steering. Went to go get a whole bunch of stuff from Awesome! Auto, but they prick behind the counter wouldn't sell anything to me because I spilled gear oil on the dirt and said I cost him $10,000 in EPA fees :rolleyes: Pick N Pull had a Range Rover that I snagged the tie rod and driveshaft, but before I could pull anything else a forklift showed up and wanted to take it away. Aluminum must be at a high point.
junk that most Rover people eat up:
http://www.rovertym.com/ourprod/imag...kinstalled.jpg
italian junk, surprisingly the cheapest:
http://www.equipe4x4.com/immagini/puntinclmont.jpg
the company that makes the yota 3rd member conversion:
http://www.rovertracks.com/images/pr...minstalled.jpg
Or just chop off the ends and weld them to some thick tubing.
For steering I'm probably going to get this steering setup. HD drag link, Defender style stabilizer bracket, and OME stabilizer. With all of that stuff included the price difference of building one isn't worth it.
http://www.rovertracks.com/images/pr...relocation.jpg
I bought the conversion for the front (probably 10 yrs ago). I got a chrome moly link from $afari Gard. I bent that one. I would do the DOM w/ insert deal if you wanted to change the links. I think rovers are 11/16 fine thread and inserts are no where to be found. I went to bigger TR ends and used some for a 3/4 ton chevys. I have the ream if you want to borrow it. The stabilzer mounts I have seen (and the one I bought) are a joke. the one end on the frame is some reinforced plate bolted on. The other is a piece of angle w/ a hole drilled for the stabilzer and four holes for some u bolts that clamb it to the drag link. I would make it b/c I have that in scrap laying around and the chrome moly rod sucks and bends easily.
well I'll probably just get the drag link only from rovertracks and ignore the rest of the crap.
What rear links are you using?