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I have seen pipe insulation with black PVC wrap on it. One of my customers uses it to insulate tubing. The wrap is wider than the insulation and self adhesive, so it overlaps the gap and closes/hides the seam. I just checked grainger and mcmaster and did not find it. Looks like something 3M would make.
I guess you are more concerned about it not hurting when you bump your head rather than not crushing your skull in a rollover?
Better than nothing at all.
Pipe insulation is equivalent to nothing at all.
I plan to maybe flop my rig at most, going 3mph like most people on here. I plan to bump my head getting in and out of the truck, that is where I need a little protection. I don't think having pipe insulation or closed cell foam or whatever is going to make a difference whether I live or die from cranial woundage.
Good to have you back John, now we can argue on the internet again!
If I am belted in, I hope to not be hitting my head on the cage anyway. I'm sure it could happen, but this stuff is free, and when I hit my head on it getting in or crawling to the backseat, it doesn't hurt.
I got some stuff from Summit for the two trips my Jeep went on with a full cage.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Maybe this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KIR-99007/
just make the cage out of foam. toys r us has pool noodles
I am pretty sure I have come close to denting my cage a few times while crawling in the truck. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
I recently ordered cage padding from Jegs and have some lengths leftover if you need any Karl.
I was surprised when I saw the real stuff, it was much more dense than I thought. I guess John it talking about if your head hits the cage violently the closed cell stuff will save your noggin. At first I was thinking if the cage crushed in, in which case you are fooked either way. I still think that pipe insulation will help a tiny bit.
i need some shocks.
when searching through monroe's catalog. cheapest ones i found that will work are $45. any other suggestions.
3/8 stud on each end, and ~25" extended.
find cheaper ones and modify mounts accordingly
i cherish your adviceQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
:blackflipoff2:
that seems a little high. I bought my cage shocks for 120 for all 4 shipped. I would guess you could find a similar deal. Wasnt there a company making cheap shocks for applications just like this?
i can find cheap shock for about $20. but they all have eyelets. appearently studs on each end got phased out in '79. might end up just running the stock ones, flex is overrated anyways.
shocks are overrated
yes they are, pogo sticks dont do well on the trails.Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
ah, studs at both ends. mine is only one end.
sounds like a crazy saturday night!Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I knew that was coming.
that really is pretty good advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
i have some spare bushing style mounts that you can weld on the axle and maybe some for the frame if you wana stop by
1. Do we/anyone have any part store hookups anymore?
2. Is it worth it to spend the extra 20 bucks a piece on ball joints to upgrade from the house brand at O'reillys?
3. Edit, what about the (extra 70 dollar a piece) adjustable ball joints?
Thanks
Is the $20 upgrade for MOOG balljoints? I have had good luck thus far with them in the bronco.
I'm not sure, I was just told they were the upgrade from the "house brand" and appear to have much higher quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
1 - I don't think TAMOR has one anymore, say you are with the sports car club, I think they have one.Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55
2 - Ball joints, yes, get the moog. If you get "auto drive" or whatever the house brand is, you "auto-drive" right back to the parts store for the better ones.
TAMOR does still have an account with O'Reillys, but I dont know how much it saves. For Napa, use the sports car club.
you whores I asked about Moog balljoints a couple of weeks ago and nobody replied
go moog all the way, if your going to do your ball jounts in town i will be working in the morning before i leave town. call me and we will get your **** done
do you need to replace yours our just keep some as spares incase you break a shaft and it takes out the balljoint?Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55
I work at the napa in bryan but the discount isnt that great.... also we dont stock moog.
i used to work at oreilly in bryan and their employee discount is great on hard parts, just saying
now time for jb to give his two cents about advance
If it hasn't changed, the Car Quest house brand used to be made by Moog. I don't know why more people don't check for oddball crap there, the ones in Corpus stocked all kinds of parts for weird vehicles.
how is ccok's napa? I have only messed with the CS one. heard mixed reviews on cooks.
My opinion is that that place suck donkey dick I've gone there a few times for some odd stuff, I think one time was for a rear axle bearing. The place is filled with ****, so much you can barely walk around and the one fat ass that I remember behind the counter took out a caliper and started measuring the bearing to compare it to the 20 odd ones they are sitting in a pile on a table. When I asked why don't they just look up the part number which was clearly visible on the bearing the guy told me he couldn't find 'the book' and sent me to another store.
The advance TAMOR account was under my phone number and was a Comm Level 4 account. Then someone found out and the discount decreased significantly. Now, the counter help is worse than at an AutoZone. Back when Jerry, jeremiah, Kyle, Aaron, and for a short time, cook, worked there, it was much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I go to NAPA CS now. Although there floor selection is pretty sparse and their computer system/credit card runners, blows. They seem to mainly use the old books still.
Yeah, I like them as well. Multiple guys that I see every time I go in there, although sometimes you have to pry a little bit to get them to check availability on some things. I like that they have cheap hardware also.
I got some really ****ty gas up in Clayton, started pinging on the tow back to Dallas. "Service Engine Soon" light is remaining on. According to owners manual this is because of misfires due to poor gas. Burned half the tank -filled it, burned another half-filled it. Scanned OBDII came up with misfires in 4,5,7. Now it isn't pinging but the engine is noticeably shaking (enough to shake the whole truck) when at idle and at low pressure on the pedal it rocks. If I give it more gas it smoothes out and the rocking stops. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
PS. Replaced spark plugs 3,000 miles ago. When this started the truck was fine untill hills, then the added rpms started to make a ping, I could actually feel it burning pockets of bad gas and then run correctly for a while. Now the shaking. What’s up?