Project Mongo

tires on rims - these are sexy looking, just hope the H2s are up to the abuse and don't lose beads constantly

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0067.sized.jpg

after spending to much time fabbing a crossmember that would give me a flat belly, but refused to work without cutting out most of the floorboard, I gave up and ordered one from sky mfg.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0077.sized.jpg

and yes, I know one bolt is missing. The nut in the frame is stripped out. I may just weld that plate to the frame, though it will make it more difficult to remove the rest of the crossmember

Rear D70 with discs and f150 springs - the springs gave me about 2 inches more wheelbase. The rear fenderwells will need to be trimmed a fair amount. The shock mounts are in, but that one shock is just hanging there for mock up purposes in the pic

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0075.sized.jpg

the rear axle is 65 inches wms to wms, and with the H2s the tires tuck in pretty nice

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0074.sized.jpg

Looks pretty trick.

The H2's always look good.

I still need to put the spacers on the front axle and build the shock mounts before putting on the front tires. You can kinda see how I currently have the hydro assist ram mocked up. One end mounts to a adjustable clamp on the tie rod. The other end has a hiem on it, and will mount to a tower welded to the axle near the driver side spring perch. Mounting it as I have, high and above the tie rod, will allow me to use the full travel and keep the ram out of the rocks. And should I decide to go full high steer, I shouldn't have to remount the ram

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0068.sized.jpg

One thing, because my front axle is several inches forward, my drag link sits a little behind the tie rod at ride hieght. Around 2 inches or so. Will this cause wierd handling on the road? Alot of people with toys move thier steering box forward, but they are running full high steer and need it to keep the tie rod and drag link from hitting each other, a problem I don't have with the crossover. I have the stuff to move the box if needed, but would like to skip it for the time being in order to save some time

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0071.sized.jpg

I still have alot to do at this point. I need to move the radiator to match the body lift, build a new rear driveshaft, finish the front shock mounts, plumb the rest of the brakes, reinstall the gas tank and run new gas lines, finish reaming the steering arm, and fix the vacuum lines and wires the rats ate. Hopefully once that is all done I can get her back here to college station, and finish up the non essentials, like getting the front axle regeared, locking the rear, building a front driveshaft, and cleaning up the D60. If I have time over spring break I may start building rock sliders and bumpers as well

BTW, would anyone be interested in helping me tow the 4runner back to college station? I would need a truck and a trailer. I don't know if I want the maiden voyage for this thing to be the drive back up here, because I'm sure I will have some little problems crop up. Once I have it up here it will be easier to fix any little problems that may pop up such as death wobble. Its around 80 inches wide, and is in Dime Box, which is about an hour from here. It may be a week or two most likely before I have the time to go get it, but would like to get it here before spring break

if you can figure out how to make it narrower to 76.75 i can in a few weeks if not it won't fit on my trailer. which is in round top and dime box is on the way back from there

well I can leave the spacers off, and that will gain me a few inches, but probably still not that narrow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by colman

if you can figure out how to make it narrower to 76.75 i can in a few weeks if not it won't fit on my trailer. which is in round top and dime box is on the way back from there

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the trailer is in houston because dad took the mule back to fix the front half shaft.

no pics, but after a month I finally got a chance to work on the POS again. Would have been nice if it hadn't been raining the entire time. I could have finished it this time if my work area hadn't flooded and made me have to stop. The hydro assist is done, all shocks mounted, brakelines run, steering arm fixed, and a bunch of little stuff taken care of. All I have left to do is build a rear driveshaft, remount the gas tank, top off the fluids, and figure out how to fix the rear body mounts that were mangled when the thing was rear ended. If it takes much longer, I may just day **** it and lop the back of the body off behind the wheel wells

Okay, I move to houston at the begining of June, so I'm gonna quit my job after graduation and take a couple of weeks off to do some fishing and **** like that. By then I should have the little stuff on the 4runner done, so its at least moving, but I want to use the time off to begin the second stage of the build up. This will include regearing and rebuilding the front axle, adding longer studs so I can use the spacers I bought and any other little thing that needs to be done. But the main thing I want to focus on is stuff like bumpers, sliders and a rollcage. Also, a fair amount of fender trimming and sheetmetal relocation (to the trash) may occur

Like I said earlier, I want to sliders similar to the one below

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/imag.../onground3.jpg

But I want to do it a little differently and use a piece of rectangular tubing (2x3) instead of square. One thing I can't decide on is what thickness to go. 3/16s would be the best choice, but will probably be pretty heavy. I thought about doing 1/8, then run a strip on angle iron on corner facing the ground in order to give it a little more strength when I come down on a rock. I don't know if that will really help or be worth it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

One thing, because my front axle is several inches forward, my drag link sits a little behind the tie rod at ride hieght. Around 2 inches or so. Will this cause wierd handling on the road? Alot of people with toys move thier steering box forward, but they are running full high steer and need it to keep the tie rod and drag link from hitting each other, a problem I don't have with the crossover. I have the stuff to move the box if needed, but would like to skip it for the time being in order to save some time

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0071.sized.jpg

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question: what happens when you are trying to turn left and the left side of the suspension is at full bump? wont the draglink/pitman arm interfer with the leaf spring?