I am quite sure he hasn't seen the thread where you professed your never ending love for hotpocket. I subscribed to that one and haven't seen him post in it yet. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
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I am quite sure he hasn't seen the thread where you professed your never ending love for hotpocket. I subscribed to that one and haven't seen him post in it yet. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
this is more your style
Cute. Where the fawk did you find a receiver flat solid works file?
its not solidworks, found dimensions on arfcom
assume that's just the general idea and the finished product will have more crossmembers? Looks cool though, you sure you don't want to shorten your overhang? My gut says that those "b-pillar" corners will crush if you roll hard, but when I think about it more I think they are fine.
Rear overhang will be shortened a few inches before tubework is done. There will be a bit more bracing, but this is the general idea. I know the angled braces should be more verticle but they are not critical and will meet the frame brace at that joint.
While looking for prices on my ORD shat, I came across a Klogger copy. I really like this bed though. I think it looks peemp.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
http://offroaddesign.com/willard4.jpg
Flem, you figured out how to draw tube?
Draw a line and then sweep!Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Or loft... whatever the cool kids call it.
Reading through cause I'm bored at work. St. John the prophet? :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
hey do you still have pictures from our trip to MS? Particularly one that shows my trailer clearly? (you know...since you're bored ;))
sweet thanks
so you don't like the rear mini-hoop idea for your cage? Or are you looking for easy spare tire access?
What do you mean rear mini-hoop? I am planning on carrying a spare but I'm not that worried about it being easy to get to.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...itled1_001.jpg
this is how I'm actually doing mine...
Meh, not diggin it. I like the parrallel bent bar corner like Chris's Taco.
So I'm thinking about my front end situation right now as well. The 56" front spring swap pushed my axle forward a few inches which gained me some firewall clearance but fubar'd my steering. It has worked well enough for awhile but I am rethinking it right now. Here is how it is currently situated.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntsteering.jpg
Due to the axle being pushed forward, it puts the tube almost directly below where the draglink attaches to the pitman. I'm not sure what effect the angle of the draglink in relation to the axle has on performance, but it doesnt seem like it is good. I also still have low steer and even my 1 1/2" 3/8 wall tierod is bent from bashing on stuff.
Here is what I would like to do.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ersteering.jpg
Reverse swinging steering boxes can be sourced from Chevy astro vans. In order for the pitman to fit around the leaf spring, the front hanger would need to be moved down and forward a bit, which incidentally would also bring the axle forward a few more inches. This is good. This would keep the pitman and draglink up and hopefully provide a moderate level of protection. Moving it forward another few inches will also help ensure that I have adequate clearance under the oilpan for a rear mounted tie-rod. Since I'm at it I might as well do hydro assist.
I agree with the hippie on the b hoop neeiding a little more bracing, seems it has very little side load bracing in that pic, only what the runners going to the rear provide. (not much) I would pur in a diagonal, or what hippie has in his drawing (an 'A') or at the very least, a straight across bar, like a dash bar.
heres an idea for your tube work
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...=743401&page=2
That looks like balls.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
...perfect for Pigpen! :flipoff2:
Here's a fun problem. I am trying to make my factory engine temperature gauge from Pigpen's original 84 chevy cluster work with my '02 8.1. While it originally had a carb'd motor with, AFAIK, 1 temp sensor for the gauge, TBI motors had two sensors. One was mounted on the intake manifold next to the thermostat and it was a variable resistance unit that had two wires, one of which was a 5 volt power supply. This one kept the puter happy. GM has used this sensor on every fuel injected motor they have made until 2002.
The other was for the gauge located in the same place as any other chevy engine I've ever seen, on the driver's side head. This one has one wire and is otherwise physically identical to the intake one, but I have no idea how it works. I cant find **** for specs on this sensor and no parts stores seem to carry it. Since the pipe plug on my driver's side head is frozen in place I made a nice and ghetto pipe T-fitting to install the sensor in the heater line between the radiator and intake. I stole the one wire sensor off my suburban and put it in the T-fitting but it would not register on the gauge. I know the T-fitting is grounded via voltmeter test but beyond that I am stumped.
know for a fact both the sending unit and guage are working?
Pigpen's not gonna make it to TCC :mad:
what are you showing us? That huge crack in your new tranny? WTF? I thought this just happened?
x2 ???
strikingly similar to page 47?
i attribute this to the fact that you dont match motor mounts and tranny mounts material
You know Sharpe, this is not pretty kickass all the way around.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
This vehicle is cursed!
take that gray thing sitting in your back yard
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Ive got a 4l80E ill sell ya cheap
details on the 4l80e?
came out of a 1998 chevy 2500 4wd
Since my current TH400 only has around 50,000 miles on it I am thinking about just fixing it. The area where the crack is has nothing inside of it there besides the output tailshaft, so disassembling any clutches or complicated **** wont be necesary. The tentative plan is to pull it, have Clarke mig the crack back together, replace the trans mount with a poly one and re-tube the rear shaft to hopefully make it straighter. Hopefully I didnt fubar the part of the CV that goes inside the driveshaft tube too much. I'm thinking while I have it out I might swap a 32 spline front output into the 205 so I can get a High Angle output flange and run a 1350 CV on the front. I have still yet to blow up a stock CV on Pigpen but I did blow one up in a parts truck once and it took out the tranny so I would like to do as much as possible to limit that risk. I might get a new rear shaft made and run my current rear CV on the front with a square tube shaft until I can afford a fancy long travel one. Lots of thinking and work to do.
isn't that case alluminum?
get doug to TIG weld it for you, it will be alot stronger
i agree
Is your tcase just hanging off the back, behind the tranny mount, or is it otherwise supported in some way? Does anybody make a tcase mount that bolts to one of the output covers on a 205, like the FROR mount for yotas?
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...erskid-019.jpg
205's have two threaded holes on the passenger side for a frame brace but I think in my case that would only make things worse. Maybe not though.
it is really tuff to weld those cases, be prepared to be there a little while. being covered in oil inside and out makes it weld like shiat so grind and clean the crap out of it. I've welded bellhousing tabs(2 on the same case) back on with success but I doubt a tailshaft housing will stay together.