No idea
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No idea
i would say atleast 200 feet and it was done by a very good fabicator, plan on using a lot more then that with all the mess ups that will happenQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I should call Klune, but I think the Klue unit would replace the adapter/tailhousing on the back of my AOD, putting my t-case only 3" further back. Sound right? If so, I could probably just move my skid back a little. Sucky part would be new driveshafts.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
edit: nvm, i should have kept reading.
Sounds about right. I love mine. I'm not sure why they're not more popular. The simplicity and range of options that it gives you is great.
Daveo and bcolman are you running the 2.62:1 klune or the 4:1?
david is running the 4:1 and i am running the 2.76:1, i love mine and would recommend it but i dont think i would spent the money to buy a new one, i would look for a used one or a used atlas, but i am still in college and have any money
Solid Axle Knuckles with Hi Steer arms:
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=33035
thanks
sweet. Bronco steering redo number 17 coming soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I am hoping that I can just redrill the knuckles to accept my Ford spindle so I do not have to jack with running Chevy outers.
Plan to get some bling shafts and joints in there at the same time.
Rear suspension will be getting lowered 1.5", as well as some new shocks, and possibly some revising of the shock mounting.
I don't know about redrilling the knuckles. I would think that would be a bad idea. The knuckles are cast thicker in the area on the back of were the stock studs are pressed in. If re-drilling into the knuckle at an area where the casting is not as thick would make the knuckle weak. I guess you'll have to look at the back of the knuckle when you get them to see if the casting is a consistent thickness or not.
I would not redrill the knuckles. This sounds like a horrible idea. Do you really want to take the chance of your tire/brakes and everything falling off?
Sorry, I meant redrill the spindles to the Chevy 6 stud pattern. I assume my rotor would clear all the nuts.
If I can make my Ford spindles work, then I can buy Ford chromo shafts, keep my Ford hubs and rotors, just having to by new calipers as the Solid knuckles require the 94+ Ford bolt-on calipers.
If I can't, then I need to buy GM/Dodge D60 spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and outer shafts. Probably bearings too?
Both options will require 35 spline driveflanges, but the 1rst option would still allow me to use my stock Ford shafts as spares(coupled with some old Warn 30 spline hubs.)
Broncograveyard has a set of chromo 4340 shafts with no brand name on them for $465, or they have the same but Yukon for $740. Not sure who makes the no name. What is another good site for buying 60 shafts, particulary GM 35 spline outers?
you should be able to redrill the spindles I don't see why not
I'm not sure how these compare in price to others you have found but. . . http://completeoffroad.com/c-62678-a...-60-stubs.html
I would need 2 of these...
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123672-...le-w46100.html
...coupled with some chromo Ford inners.
Re drilling my Ford spindles is not going to work. Will need GM spindles and spindle studs
Are the hubs the same GM v. Ford?
Took it apart today. The Warn Premiums only lasted 3 trips. The inner gear was cracked.
why not?Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
and that sucks.
On a side note...
39.5x13.5x16.5 IROK Bias on H1 recented wheels with rock rings = 155lbs. Weighed them today on a bathroom scale.
I could do it, but at least one of the holes will overlap an old hole in the spindle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
not sure what is up with the half moon shape cutout on the right side. Both GM and Ford spindles have circular flanges no? Maybe something to do with the caliper.
its where the caliper floats
Going with teh GM outers is going to cost me too much. I played with it today and started drilling my Ford spindles to work. The edge of one hole will overlap the edge of another hole, but I will still be able to get use a stud and nut. I realize this is a little ghetto, but I hope it works, as it will save money.
For the passenger side, what about mounting the drag link and tie rod on the same bolt? I thnk I have seen that done before with no issues. Just stack misalignment washers to seperate the heims. There is room to drill another hole, but I would rather not.
better be one badarse bolt with that much leverage, or make a custom spacer for the middle
i was thinking about doing the same thing on my xj, but possibly figre out a way to weld a brace onto the knuckle to try and make it double shear, basiclly hiem knuckle hiem brace
something like this? http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=668Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
ya similiar but actually welding to the knucles since i wont be using highsteer arms, but in john cas do the same but one uner the arm and one above
I got the Solid knuckles installed finally. Had to get a stud/nut kit from SOlid because the typical spindle stud/nut kit for GM will not work. Just need to order the expensive stuff now. Shafts, u-joints, spindles, hubs, flanges, rotors, calipers, bearings.
I have the high steer arms marked and ready to be drilled. I do not have a drill press, really just hopeing a machine shop will knock it out. Anywhere besides Vilas? I guess Cooks could do it.
i can probably do it on the drill press at work, but i would recommend buying a good 3/4in bit from mack to do it with
knuckles installed.
it sill doesn't make any sense to me why SOLID would want you to convert to GM outters?
and what was the issue with redrilling your stock spindles to work?
custom fab, accurate machineQuote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Brazos Valley Driveline would probably be worth a call as well.
PM krebs?
Hard to explain, but the Solid knuckle is 'narrower' than a stock Ford knuckle. The spindle mounting surface is about 1/2"-3/4" closer to the center of the truck. No big deal until you look at a Ford 60 spindle vs. a GM 60 spindle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
gm
http://extremeaxlesales.com/ProductI...evy%20spin.jpg
ford
http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/images/spindle.jpg
The backside of the Ford spindle that slides into knuckle extends too far, contacting the axle shaft, which means you can not fully bolt down the spindle b/c it is just pushing on the shaft.
would TTB spindles work?
i would think a ttb 44 spindle would be much smaller. Maybe a D50 spindle, but I doubt it. Redrilling them just perfect was an enormous PITA though. I think I am going to do it right, it is just going to cost me alot. $440 for the forged hubs and $320 for the forged spindles jus to get started. Still need, brake caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, bearins, flanges, u-joints, and 35spl outers.
A regular non forged, non Solid Axle hub and spindle will work, but it means I have to run Ford brakes, which means I need to find the stock Ford caliper brackets and then space them accordingly.
It is a general cluster****.
I think Eckert was talking about TTB 50 spindles. The hubs are the same as a Dana 60 and I think the outers are too.
sounds like a terrible business plan on Solid's part. What's the purpose of all this? Slightly higher steer?
StrengthQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
of course all new shafts, joints and hubs are stronger, but what was the original intent of the new knuckles? are the stock knuckles weak? couldn't you buy a kingpin 60 for less?Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55