I'm not really sure where they think I'm getting an AC tig welder from either?:confused:
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I'm not really sure where they think I'm getting an AC tig welder from either?:confused:
Whats the best way to clean the outside surface? It looks prety porous so I figured it would be a ***** to clean sufficiently. We are planning on using a spool gun if it matters.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
I think you would have much better luck with a tig. I use lots of carb cleaner and I sand the shiat out of the area (well past the weld zone w/coarse sandpaper) then I clean again with thinner. to insure no contaminaits you need to do the same to the inside surfaces aswell. weld slow, the AC will pull the improperties out, but you have to add lots of rod quickly to not blow the piece away. can't remember the rod I used but I still have some and can look if you need.
brake clean works a better than carb clean, or hose it down with some castrol super clean, let it sit then spray it off with water
I don't think it matters what the first couple stages are...he is finishing with acetone
yup almost all other cleaners leave a residue that f's up tig, I clean everything I weld with thinner, acetone, or some mineral spirits variant
My original transmission case was welded back together with a stick. It held.
i was think grind the crack out clean it up and weld it up with a spool gun
I finally finished getting the transmission pulled yesterday. The empty space in the tailhousing didnt go as far up into the trans as I thought so it looks like there might actually be some important **** under the crack. Now I have a few choices to make. Ryan Curry was prety adament about TIG'ing it due to the heating and cooling rate but to do this I will either have to pay a shop to do it or drag it to campus so Doug can take a shot at it. Clarke wants to MIG it. I'm not so sure its repairable at all without gutting the housing, and at that point its not worth the trouble to fix that case, as I have another one that the case is fine on but the internals are ****ed. So, options are as follows;
TIG current case w/o diassembly
MIG current case w/o disassembly
Take guts from cracked case and swap into uncracked case
Say ****itall and find another working take-out trans
I have never messed with the internals of a transmission beyond fluid and filter changes so swapping the guts over is a little intimidating, but at least I would be able to disassemble to uncracked case first to see how everything goes together.
jeepindoug on pirate wrote a rad play-by-play for rebuilding a th400 a long time ago. Maybe it was in his malvado grande buggy build?
I'd say you'd have to disassemble it or it would be a waste of time. I'm not master of TIGing aluminum, but I know it needs to be clean on both sides and oil free. I'm not even sure I'd want to waste my time if it wasn't disassembled.
How much is a new case? If you don't want to mess with swapping the internals have you asked a shop how much it would be?
How much is your time worth at this point. If it's welded, put back in, weld fails, have to take it back out and repeat?
It "only" took about 4 hours total to pull it out, obviously re-installing will take a little longer. At this point I am leaning toward swapping the good guts into the good case. I do actually want to try my hand at rebuilding an auto, and this seems like a good opportunity. Since both transmissions are worthless as is, if I FUBAR it in the end I'll only be out a little time and it will still be a good learning experience. So, with that in mind, thoughts on a reverse manual valve body...
yes yes yes 1>N>R=kickass
Only thing that would suck about reverse manual is having to remember to down shift from 2nd/3rd when you stop. We had a customer at Eaker's who would bring his Torino in about every six months for a trans rebuild cause he would have a few beers (a lot) and then drive around in 3rd. :laughing:
reverse manual is much easier to adjust if you are using a aftermarket type shifter.
make sure you get one with atleast 1st gear compression braking maybe even 2nd, most don't do this and for any thing other than a rockcrawler I woould recommend no com. braking it suck's on the street but needed for crawlin.
How does the compression braking work on these valve bodies? In other words what else does it do besides hold 1st or hold 2nd gear (which is what a manual vb would be doing anyway right)?
Yes I was deffinately planning on one with compression braking. Pigpen will see a little street time but will obviously be mostly wheelin so I think it'd be a better choice. I have an Art Carr shifter.
there are a few different valvebody combo's they all do different stuff. most are for drag racing like t-brake(pro-tree and regular) reverse and standard pattern and ones with and with out compression braking and then there are the vairiations of stock ones so you can use Drive normally. there are also some variations for dirt roundy round cars that do funky stuff, but I don't know much about how those operate as I have never drivin' or even been interested in them.
I can help you with the rebuild sharpe. Ive been into 3 or 4 th400s
just spray some berryman B 12 chemtool on it and TIG it! It only causes cancer in California.
get some of that heat sink putty and stick it around the crack if you are worried about heat.
that's what she said!Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
I think that putty is aluminum based. probably a poor thermal conductor compared to a transmission housing.
Here's the writeup Eric was referring to. Its good info for sure.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430754
Today I finally got around to disassembling both transmissions and I have to say, it was easier than I expected. I dont really understand how it all works but the arrangement of the clutch sets and gears is prety straight forward. It turns out that the clutch disks in the tranmission that I cracked were prety ****ed up, and the clutches from Pigpen's first 4wd transmission (that mysteriously stopped working) were actually in great shape, but the metal bands were FUBAR'd in it. So what it boiled down to is Rowdy and I inspected everything closely and kludging together all the good **** from each transmission to make one uber-good one. We didnt get around to reassembly today because I had to order a seal kit from O'Reillys for the rear servo, valve body and other small internal seals that I was not aware of.
Here's the good (uncracked) housing stripped and all cleaned up drying off in the sun.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0404.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0405.jpg
Here's the yoke think that I bootyfabbed to hold the transmission housing in an engine stand while working on it.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0407.jpg
All the guts and **** from two TH400's.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0409.jpg
Rowdy doign whatever it is that he does...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0408.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0410.jpg
Since we got as far as we could get with the transmissions prety early in the afternoon, I decided to start on the rear axle relocation. As part of my "fix-all-the-halfassed-****" grand plan my front axle will be moved forward ~8" or so so I can fix my goofy steering geometry. Since my wheelbase is already 130", I did not want to make it any longer so I am moving the rear axle forward 12." I am also replacing the 63" rear springs I was running with a set of 56's. The 63's were too stiff and had too much rear overhang.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0412.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0411.jpg
If i wouldnt have been there, ya would have put together a half-halfassed trans! but ill let it slide this time:flipoff2:
Thoughts on foam in a fuel cell?
I'm liking this one.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JAZ/547/252-116-01/10002/-1
it sux don't use it unless u plan on changing it every year or diagnosing wierd fuel delivery problems
I think this is pretty cool(wiffle balls instead of foam)
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...t=55450&page=2
Awsome :laughing: :gigem: The $40 difference between foam and no foam can be partially put towards a couple dozen wiffle balls!Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
GM part number for pitman arm to investigate later...
26056102
i have a buddy with some foam he isn't gonna use that he would sell cheep. pm me if you want his number
Finally got the rest of the tranmission put back together last night. Damn rebuild kit came with a pan gasket but no filter :rolleyes: so I'll get one today and maybe reinstall the whole shebang tonight.
Trans installed last night. Ordered poly trans mount and adjustable vacuum modulator from Summit, they wont be here until tuesday though. So I cant install the t-case and crossmember until then. I'll probably work on putting the rear suspension back together tonight and tomorrow.
sweet I wanna see a burnout
the modulator i got from waco for you is adjustable asshat
That still doesnt mean he wants to run it.
And its long gone. **** if I know where, its only $12 so I bought a new one and moved on with my life. I suggest you do the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
What if i dont want to? hahahahah
What does everyone run for fuel hose in high pressure, fuel injected applications? I put plain rubber parts store hose on to get to Clayton, even though it specifically says "not for fuel injected applications" on it. It has held up well enough so far but I'm sure catastrophic failure is imminent and I will be installing a fuel cell anyway. I dont want to pay for genuine braided hose so I was looking at the mid-level hpses. Russell's Twist-Lok hose is the cheapest per foot in this category and the fittings that go with it are available in the styles I am wanting to use.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...47169/10001/-1
My fuel systems runs at ~70 PSI so the cheap rubber **** isnt gonna cut it anymore.
hardline with flex line only where its necessary. comression fittings to connect the hardline to the flex line that has a piece of hardline crimped to it. bryan hose kind of sucks, they are all about push locks and brazing. They do have a decent selection of hardline at least. I think napa will actually crimp stuff.
After the fuel pump and filters (thinking about running a water seperator/pre-filter) there would only be ~3 feet of hardline, at most. Not really worth the trouble to me.