good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
The intent was to get the tie rod over the leafs. I needed balljoint knuckles with high steer arms I ASSumed I could make Ford outers work, making this relatively inexpensive. I was wrong.
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good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
The intent was to get the tie rod over the leafs. I needed balljoint knuckles with high steer arms I ASSumed I could make Ford outers work, making this relatively inexpensive. I was wrong.
Ford kingpin and balljoint knuckles are very weak, even if his intention was to just get highsteer, the added strength of the knuckles is a huge bonus, ask cookQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Ttb 50 spindles are the same as 60 spindles they wouldn't work either. The difference in ttb 50 and 60 monobeams are the stub has a smaller u-joint.
That sucks. Does everyone have to do this with solid knuckles? I guess they designed them for their new axles and not Joe Wheeler to easily swap out. Where do they get new GM 60 spindles? Can you have the boss on your ford spindles machined to fit?Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
there is no way you could just make a spacer to fit between the spindle and knuckle?
I'm guessing that would fubar the caliper/rotor alignment.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
This is what my plan is for this weekend. I am going to try using the GM brake bracket as the spacer, thus running Ford outers with GM brakes. The width I lost with the narrower knuckle witll be regained with the bracket, hopefully putting everything back where it is suppose to be. The Ford outer should still work, but brake caliper, rotor alignment, well I will just have to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
I have to buy the brake caliper bracket anyway, so it this doesnt work, I still have to use them.
since your still going to use the Ford stuff. the TTB spindles wont work why, minus redrilling them.
http://tm94f2504x4.com/images/D60D50...ference640.jpg
Ford d60 on left, TTB50 on right?
you are correctQuote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Huh damn I guess I'm dumb, I thought the spindles were the same.
do you have a D50 ttb spindle I could borrow?
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Their spindles are forged and have a cut out or the caliper to float.
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart...&idcategory=10
Found later model Ford brake brackets from Oreillys. Just need to figure out wich Ford spindle I need to redrill in order to make everything line up. Or use the spindles I have and space them out some.
http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_im...1423_image.jpg
This is what I need. From Parts Mike.
arms r done
I'll try and pick them up Friday, if not Sat. Thanks alot.
is it a 99-04 axle?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ighlight=axles
93. But building parts for 99+ D60s seems like the buisness to get into, as they are probably a whole lot easier to find these days.
I came back up today to put some of it back together. Here is the final axle build list:
93 Ford D60
4.88 Yukon gears
Detroit
GLO cover
Stock inner shafts
5-806x Spicer non-greaseable joints
Yukon 4340 35spline outers
Spicer upper/lower balljoints (installed then removed the cheapo Oreilly brand)
SOLID balljoint knuckles machined for high steer
SOLID high steer arms
SOLID forged 'Chevy' style spindles w/ new bearing and seals
SOLID 'Chevy' brake caliper brackets
SOLID forged wheel hubs
rotors are Chevy, from a 80ish K20
calipers are from a 80ish K10
wheel studs - i do not know the application, but I have a PN
1.5" steering links, heims
PSC assist ram
Need to pick up some bearings/races tomorrow
I haven't purchased drive flanges yet, but SOLID's are $200, so I will probably buy those.
I replaced the center pins on the leaf springs. Both were bent and all u-bolts were loose. Replaced all u-bolts on the front axle as well. NAPA has a good selection of them that they can get in a day, but they are stupid pricey. $27 a piece.:eek:
The tie rod has a wave to it, but should work fine. The only fab left will be making a longer drag link and making the mounts for the ram.
Spent way more than I intended, which is why it still has stock inners but I have wheeled it pretty good for 6+ years on 36s and only broke 2 stubs. One on a hard drivers side roll with the tire spinning fast in 4LO and the other in a wieird situation, stationary, with the wheel cocked, winching AColman up a hill at Shiloh. Disassembly would reveal that it was fractured prior.
Anyhow, hopefully Clarke can help me get the d link squared away and maybe get a rear bumper on it. I would really link to get it street legal. I have a plan to lower the rear about 2" as well. ONce it is all up and running again in a couple weeks, I am thinking of maybe a Clayton weekend trip if anyone is down. Also thinking about a some sort of beach trip, but not sure what is out there.
Your work looks pretty sweet and I'm definitely down for any beach trip.:gigem:
sounds like you got the front brake kit that lets you run 15" rims......
I havent mounted up the caliper yet to see how it lines up, but it should. If the single piston Chevy calipers are not cutting it, I can removed the Chevy brake bracket, bolt on a Ford bracket to the bosses on the knuckle, and run a 3/4-1 ton Ford dual piston caliper.
with the k-series rotor and caliper it will fit 15" rims but you have to grind the caliper some. I have those brakes on both my front and back and had to grind them both.
he has h1 wheels
Got it together and mounted the tires to see if it was any wider. I think it is a little wider now. The hubs were offset .5" from the Ford hubs, but the knuckle was narrower, figured it come out about the same. I will find out next time i load it on teh trailer. Other pic shows that I had to remove a very small amount of material from teh new outers to fit through the knuckle. The old Ford outer stuff is for sale (Ford 60 hubs/rotors, 30 spline outers, inner spindle seals)
my camera brings the suck apparently
ive put 15" wheels on those brakes before and they didn't need to be ground. unless u have rediculous back spacing
Random Tech Question:
The calipers are from say a 75 K10. I found what I think/thought was a chevy banjo bolt inthe Help section. Drilled out the 'block' on my braided line, bolted it together, but it still leaked slightly. I had copper washers on both sides. Went to store and got brake hose for 75 K10. See pic. What is the purpose of the 'ears' on each side of the block? Is it on backwards? Does it matter? Are banjo bolts tapered? After that bolt goes through the block and two washers, there is not much thread left. I might need a longer one, but I dunno. I think this one might be leaking slightly too. I am going to go back out and check it in a bit.
Don't the ears keep it from spinning on the caliper? I think they just act as keepers in that notch where you have them...
ya like Brett said the ears are to keep the banjo fitting from spinning on the caliper and yes you do have yours on backwards. The flat portion of the ear should be against the caliper. No banjo fittings are not tapered, however the bolts in a sense are. On the bolt the threaded portion is a smaller OD than the non-threaded shank. Measure the length of the shank on the banjo bolt and compare it to the thickness of the banjo fitting, they should be the same. Hope this helps.
I bet this is going to be my issue. Is there a better source to find proper banjo bolts other than the 2 or 3 that every parts store has in the Help/Dorman section?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
bryan hose and gasket has a good assortment in stock, ask for jimmy.
ive used many form horeillys and never had an issue
In the pic, the fitting is on the correct way. If I flip it, then the 'ears' do not 'engage' the tabs on teh caliper, thus it would let it spin. I think my issue was putting it together and taking it apart a few times using the same copper washers. I put some fresh ones on there and it seems to be fine.
Dumb question, but couldn't you swap them left to right so the flat part of that ear is flush against the caliper?
Finally no leaks from the braking setup. Ended up replacing one line from the prop valve to the pass. side hose.
I might still have some air in the lines. Right now, I can only lock up the rear on a hard brake. And the rear locks up nice and quick. Pedal is a little more spongy than before.
I ended up pulling off both steering assist hoses until I can get a new mount built for the ram. I got some JIC caps for the ports. It seems to steer just fine now, like before the ram, but I am gettting a loud creaking from what I think is the box, and the box seems to get pretty hot pretty fast. Not sure why it would be doing that.
Since it is wider now, Clarke is building some driveover fenders for the trailer. Pics hopefully next week.
The tube fenders on my trailer work awesome and blend in well John. There are some pics in the rig sled thread if they are something you like and they weren't hard to build.
Thanks to Clarke, the trailer now sports some drive-over fenders. The pics suck but I will get some good ones later. We still need to weld in the inner skins and paint it. The material is 2x4 box 3/16" wall cut into 5 pieces to mimic the radius of the original fender. After the inner piece is on, and it is painted, it will look very slick.
do this on the rear springs