what kind of mc, it looks fancy with an adj prop valve
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what kind of mc, it looks fancy with an adj prop valve
Ford f-350 I bet.
You will love it. Made wheeling so much easier without having to worry about brakes.
Your retarded!!!!!!!!!!
Why can't you eve r spell things out? Always has to be a ****ing mistery with you, like your so special! ya you put a nother master cylinder and some disk brakes on the rear, want a circle jerk? Congrats your now a man!
You're, you're, and you're.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
mystery.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Why do have nothing better to do than get drunk and post whore the boards?
You are in Australia for crying out loud! Don't be mad because he doesn't post three angles of every single thing he touches. ****, at least he put a pic up.
pot meet kettle on the useless posts bitch :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
its a late 90s f150 m/c and 78 f350 booster. you will have to widen the holes on the m/c.
Ruff Stuff 10.25 brackets
Rotors 66799RGS
Calipers JB7 series 184122 and 184123
Pads MKD153
Brakelines BH177169
Banjo bolts 13940
Booster 5473311
M/C 13-2827
10.25 wheel seals 370047A
spindle socket W83008
ya, ya, i know. looks like a good upgrade.
having trouble getting the banjo fitting to seal against the caliper. there are no grooves on around the hole on caliper for the copper washer to seal against. wtf. i've tightened the bolts to point that i pulled out the threads on one of the ****ers. they are the chevy metric calipers. anyone else have a problem with these?
3/4 ton brakes mine have groves for the copper washer to seal against
what are they off of?
i think I used ones off a 78 ish 3/4 ton chevy truck
The disk conversion I did on my d70 uses late 70's-early 80's chevy 3/4 ton calipers as well. No issue's with leaky fittings.
yep same thing on my 609 (78 k-20 calipers). Are you sure you have the proper banjo bolt? My front calipers are waggy and my rear are k20, look exactly the same but use different banjo bolts. The thread and pitch are the same but the diameter of the neck of the bolt with the hole is a different diameter from front my front to rear. I mixed them up one time and they leaked. Might want to check that just to be sure.
the 85 calipers did not have the ridges for the copper washers to seal against. i got 78 ones and they had them. i also got the right banjo bolts from napa.
i'm working on changing out the tres for heims right now. in true tamor fashion, i'll be doing the doubler at the very last minute...
tire joint did a good job. northwest fab doubler stuff is shiney.
vulcanized?
where did you get it fixed at?
Between the 'a' and the 't'... :flipoff2:
yes vulcanized, same place in houston as JB i believe
Anyone know the name, and about how much this costs?Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11493Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Yup, DH Tire, off I-10, just east of downtown.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
...
Nice.
Cool. When is the red ferd getting paint?
when i have time and a place to take it apart again.
this whole crossmember thing is turning out to be a pain in the ass. there's not a lot of room with all the shifters and driveshaft **** in there.
Yes they are, after f-ing with mine I don't think i would ever do a doubler again.
Yeah, it is tight, but can be done. I had to roll my front cross member at an angle so it would clear the shaft and shifters!
I guess with a chevy 203 and ford 205 its much easier, cause u can turn the 203 on its side and have the doubler selector on top. my shifter bracket and linkage is real simple compaired to some I've seen
I need to come by and check out your setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
getting there.
the small one was a half ass attempt at a two piece crossmember by ryan and i before clayton.
Holy Hang Down Too Far!
you couldn't put those mounts flush with the frame or inside the frame? I can already envision your rig getting hung up on a rock and spinning the truck around the rock rather than sliding over it. Add a ramp on both sides of the mount?
It is a lot stronger than mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
not really. there was too much in the way. its higher up than the factory one and i didn't really hang on that. the 205 seems to hang down more... i'm running out of time and its a bitch getting it in and out of there. i didn't want to mess with cutting the floor under the seats since i need this thing to be able to move soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
i have to make a small rear crossmember to support the 205 still. i remember there was a discussion on mixing poly and rubber mounts somewhere. all i have left are some poly bushings for the rear.
Either you and Frick are way ovethinking that crossmember, or maybe mine is not beefy enough for when I add the doubler, but it is essentially just a tube with a bend to clear the driveshaft, bolted to each side of my frame. No issues with it over the past few years with the stock t case.
thats the plan for the rear one. i just wanted the front one stronger and i don't have a bender. there will be a skid plate. i just wanted to have both crossmembers in first.
wish i had a tube bender. the rear is about 3/8" lower than the 205 so i can put a plate in between the front and rear. stuff hangs down farther than i would like but its not as bad as the pics show. oh well, i'll run it for now. driveshafts are done. shifters are done. floor is close. just odds and ends after this.
Turns out, you don't need a floor to wheel. :)
Looks stout, that's for sure!
How did you attach that to the rear of the 205? I guess there is no cross member where the doubler adapter is?