you know what the best part of the whole jeep is?....
see you in clayton! :gigem:
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you know what the best part of the whole jeep is?....
see you in clayton! :gigem:
I had planned on heading home to get the jeep this evening since I had my last final this afternoon. Talked with my dad and decided it would be best to just grab it in the morning due to the weather and awful traffic. Plan is to mount the skidplate, top off fluids, grab tools, etc then head back to CS to load the rest of my stuff and pickup Travis and Tyler. Should be leaving CS around 1-2ish would be my guess.
The Barn Burner is currently drying out in the shop after being trailered back from Baytown through snow.
Dad got the first burnout, though weak it still counts...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nBurner006.jpg
I have to give it to your Dad for laying rubber before you did....
sweet:gigem:
Last week I picked up a new optima red top to replace the old one that went to Rodney, put the front driveshaft back together, and pulled the jeep off the trailer. With Clayton being its first shakedown run there were some issues as expected but it was still fun getting out and wheeling with the new setup.
The list of broken and malfunctioning parts included...
-Transmission (no second gear)
-Brakes (wouldn't hold in low range)
-Rear Driveshaft
-Rear t-case yoke
-Front driverside hub (lockout knob internals broke)
-Front driveshaft (made contact with the skidplate breaking the grease fitting off)
-Electric fan blades broke
-Fuel return line leaked
-Rear anti-wrap truss ripped off
-Rear springs creased
-Front driverside spring shim
After unloading it I pulled it in the shop and started pulling some of the broken stuff off. Drove it around to check for any other problem areas. Before the trip I had noticed a small oil leak coming from the backside of the block, mostly from the passenger side. First thought was that it was just the valve cover gasket but after running it after the trip it had worsened a bit. Definitely coming from the intake manifold, only about a quart has been lost. Pulling it off and resealing it has been added to the list.
Already ordered some parts and started to tear into it.
-D70 disk brake conversion kit from DIY, should be in shortly.
-1350 CV flange and pinion brake kit from Stak.
-Rancho rs44148 rear springs
-Warn premium lockouts
-Flexalite mustang fan, picked it up and installed in Clayton. Kicks ass.
-8 AN cap for the fuel cell to block off the return line.
-Dropping the trans. and taking it to Ricky for a rebuild or possibly a whole new built unit.
After I get the trans back and flange/pinion brake kit installed I will get a new rear driveshaft made. Plenty of other stuff I'm working on. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.
Progress from tonight. I really hadn't done anything except for pull the front hub and rear driveshaft pieces until tonight. Made some decent progress, tomorrow I'll drop the transmission then start working on other stuff. Pulling and/or installing the stak alone sucks, ended up bench pressing it down like last time. Already knew cork gaskets suck, just don't put rtv on them too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown003.jpg
Broken shat... Both u-joints broke, front one is wedged in the cv, shot the clip out and flared the ear around the cap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown002.jpg
1310?
are you getting a brake booster to put on as well?
would be hard to convert to power using the wilwood pedal as it uses two masters, making sure the masters are the correct bore is really what is needed
Yeah what's left of them. I'm running a 1410 at the axle in the rear and now a 1350 flange at the t-case. Front is still 1350 at the axle and 1310 at the case.
Very true. I looked in to finding a power booster after getting back from Clayton but have yet to come across anything that will work with the Wilwood setup. The master cylinder bores are 7/8. I'm hoping that after I go back and bench bleed them, install the rear disks, and adjust the balance bar it will be better.
are the brakes goin the floor or are you pressing really hard and they just don't clamp? If they still feel really spongy and go to the floor after you blead'em real good you may need to try a larger bore in the front. I think the 3/4 bore is good on the rear. also make sure the center washer in the balance bar isn't getting jammed as this can happen if you don't have staggered bores for f\r. even if you get the masters right i don't think the pedal on willwoods set-up is long enough to create the mad pressure need to be able to stop your jeep in low range in gear