http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/011-4.jpg
from looking at this picture It doesn't look like i'll have to shorten the driveshaft.
Printable View
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/011-4.jpg
from looking at this picture It doesn't look like i'll have to shorten the driveshaft.
Did you check out the cl d 60 gears?
they are in dallas.......i'd spend more in gas getting up there than I would on the gears. For fuel + gears I could buy a new set from car doc for. They're only $120
Finally sitting on the ground. We put it down to measure for the track bar. We'll be welding on the bushing and heim in the morning. Then pulling out the axle, finish welding in the coil buckets, drag link, track bar, track bar axle bracket and some other stuff.
Reinstall everything, loctite and torque down all of the bolts, put the brake lines together and move to the back.
I ordered u-bolts and spring plates from the ford dealership, not only were the only ones that could get them within the week but they were the cheapest. That surprised me.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0091.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0092-2.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0093-1.jpg
Putting on the 37's tomorrow too.
Finally got Tommy's bronco on the ground, I'm pretty happy with it and can't wait to see it in action.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/4-2.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/5-2.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/6-1.jpg
Spring perchs, simplicity was the name of the game here. Constructed from 3/8's plate and each weld was 3 passes
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/2-2.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/3-2.jpg
Here is one of the track bar mount, should have taken better pictures because it turned out kinda cool looking. don't mind the little booger tack holding it in place, it was ground off and re welded and there is a small gusset on the back side
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/7-1.jpg
Any plans to get that tie rod up?
Also I am anxious to see how much bumpsteer there is with that drag link angle.
Looking good
Really? There is a half degree difference in the track bar and drag link. The picture may be deceiving.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
As far as the angle goes here is what it was before and I had zero bump steer.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0054.jpg
For the moment the tie rod will stay the same. I have spent to much money on this thing, I am ready to go wheeling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I'm sure a steering upgrade will be down the road but I figure this should suffice for now. I think bump steer should be minimal being that the trac-bar frame mount is the factory one that is matched for the pitman arm location and the axle mount is matched to keep roughly the same angle as the drag-link. Ideally the trac-bar could be a little longer to match the drag-link in length but room was limited and it's longer than the 2005 trac-bar was
edit- haha I'm too late
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0107.jpg
Track bar and drag liink lengths
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0106.jpg
better picture of steering angles
I see pretzeling another tie rod in your future. JK, it looks good. Why didn't you push the front axle out some? steering issures?
I cant see pictures on my work computer, but brace the frame side tracbar mount if you havent
Brace or weld to the frame? I don't remember ever having any problems from the frame side but only having two bolts kinda worried me.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Brandon ripped a huge hole in his frame on the Scout from the trackbar mount coming loose. I agree with Clarke (scary thought).
Does that pitman arm have a drop in it? Earlier I has referring to the steep angle of the drag link, not if there was any discrepancy between lengths of the drag link and trackbar. Not sure on radius arm suspensions but with leaf springs you want the drag link as flat as possible to reduce bump steer. You could do that by going highsteer or adding a dropped arm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
No drop in the pitman arm. When you drop the pitman arm you increase the load on the steering box. Bump steer occurs when suspension travels causes the distance from the pitman arm to wherever the draglink mounts to change. This is what the trac bar attempts to reduce, by matching the trac-bar as close as possible to the draglink you will keep the draglink mounts roughly the same distance from each other. High-steer would be better, and there will still be some (minimal) bump steer but this should be a huge improvement over stock.
Here a picture of the frame mount trac bar for anyone unfamiliar with it.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/8-1.jpg
How hard would it be to tie it into the spring bucket with a a few bolts/spacers running parallel with the frame, or a bolt on the bottom of the frame?
Or. . . .
RUN IT!
I'm trying to reduce the amount of ghetto/hack job on this thing :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
There would be no good way to run a bolt like that and the strength gained would be minimal if any. You can barley see but the only place where there would even be room for drilling is in line with the top bolt hole or higher.
Time for a rattle can job. maybe some od green, or even flat brown since that is one of the original colors. especially with the trim gone, two tone I think looks good when it is really clean.
Speaking of, maybe a paint job is what JB needs as well, instead of a new rig. Kind of like puttin a wig on your girlfriend :)
Weld the mount to the frame, or just build a new one out of 2x4 rectangle tube, then brace it back to the engine crossmember. Thats what we did on Frick's
Didnt frick do that because he was using a 4 inch drop pitman arm? With the added leverage of having to lowered the track bar bracket I could definitely see why extra bracing would be necessary but keeping this thing low makes room real tight under there. Might just try to weld it of possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Frick's was as low as we could make it and he used high steer, making things even more difficult.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
The factory one is stamped steel, making one, even if it puts the mount at the same point, allows you to give yourself more weld surface then the factory one, thus minamizing chance for failure. Just as with earlier issues with this build, by not doing this would be booty fab. You the chance to make it right the first time so why not do it? I know tubby wants to get this thing on the road, and you want it out of your hair, but tkae the extra steps.
On another note blanken**** is right, keeping everything as flat as possible is ideal, it will give you the closest to nuetral path in the movement of the suspension
Being that the budget is not unlimited not everything can be ideal from the get-go... Isn't this a wheeling club?
and No one said it wasn't ideal to have a flat(er) drag link?
Me and Tommy both agreed it was better to wait for high steer, in which the entire steering and trac-bar would have to be re-done, then to go with a drop pitman arm and new track bar bracket. The way it is set up right now is not prone to failure, in personal experience I never had a problem with my frame mount but I did rip the bolt out of the axle mount on the d44. Either way the steering drag link is at less of a angle than what it was, the trac-bar more closely mimics the drag link and honestly I think Tommy has a lot more other **** to worry about.
In fact I still think Tommy has done a pretty decent job, especially with his budget.
Damn people that steering is fine. It's a 79 Bronco, not a Ferrari.:laughing:
Did a couple of full lock turns around Travis' property earlier. No rubbing and the turning circle is about the same.
Tonight Matt is coming over to help me put the rear in. Tomorrow after work i'll do brake lines and have the rollers changed out for the 37's.
I spent the hot part of the day cleaning the shop.
How was driving with no brakes?
I'm used to it
Matt and I got the rear done tonight. I love leaf springs, they're too easy.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0113.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0114.jpg
Old u-bolts were a bitch so I just cut them off with a grinder and saved Matt some pain.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0116.jpg
A salute to the 9". Never let me down until I really needed it. This thing is toast. The only good things left are the gears and shafts.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0117.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0118.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0119.jpg
The stock shock tabs are held on with u bolts. I don't want that crap so I'm going to weld on some conventional shock tabs tomorrow.
The driveshaft will have to be shortened 3 or 4 inches.
What are you making the shock tabs out of? Why not just weld the superdookie ones to the tubes?
And go get the 37s swapped onto the front.
Gonna get a different yoke for the axle or add a flange adapter to the shaft?
Jesus I just got it on the ground today.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I havent decided yet. I think I'll do the flange adapterQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
So it looks like you paid to have the roller tires balanced. Is that the case?
And why don't you just move the rear axle back a few inches? It would be a more ideal wheel base and you could leave the driveshaft alone.
The tires on the rear are staying. And I don't pay for tire balancing.
Looking good Tommy.
good progress.... i will also suggest a little wb and move the axle back. better departure angle as well
As of right now I just need to get it driving. Its been on jack stands for too long and I need to get some seat time before I tear into it again. If I keep making modifications it will never be done and i'll lose motivation. The wheelbase is 105" right now.
Check my drive shaft pile, there should be one I already shortened, might work
Stretching wheelbase on broncos is easy. Grind off or torch rivits, drill new holes further back and bolt in. All done. Within 1 case of beer work.
I spent all day running brake lines. I ****ing hate running brake lines. Its all fine and dandy until you find a leak when you try to bleed it. Then you have brake fluid leaking all over your hand slipping off wrenches....**** that.
Anyway, these brakes are tits. After the 3rd time bleeding them I can lock up all 4 pretty easily.
Rti'ed it.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0124.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0125.jpg
Driveshaft will not need to be shortened.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0127.jpg
I need longer shocks
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0134.jpg
Then Evan brought me some light.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0139.jpg