what is that supposed to do? i can't believe there is a wedge stuck in there too...
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what is that supposed to do? i can't believe there is a wedge stuck in there too...
I believe he put that on there to keep the springs lined up. IIRC he was having them spread out at one time.
I did this but in the opposite direction (ie. smarter :flipoff2:)
Changing out steering columns is a pain in the ass. I got the new junkyard one in, and the tilt jaw gear thing was broken, so had to rob parts off of the old one.
I do still need to do something about the rear springs spreading apart.
Yes it is, I figured it would be like an hour job, it is more..... Unless you are Clarke, who is going to post up how much faster he could do it than me. God I hope one day I can be a man like Clarke and change Ford water pumps in an hour....Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Damnit Karl:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
somebodys butthurt:D
both sides look like this. The upper has pull out close to 1/2". Not sure why.
if you still have the receipts check and make sure they are the correct application.
[karl]just do a few sweet jumps and once they are back in place, weld them in...[karl]
Good idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Maybe wrong camber bushing? Stumped. Anyone have a balljoint 60 they can take pictures of?
I am going to chalk it up to either bad balljoints or I did something pretty dumb/****ing sweet at Shiloh and just do not remember. New XRF balljoints in and ready for Clayton. Just need to deal with the trans mount and I am ready to go.
Must have been bad balljoints(spicer). After some much harder wheeling in Clayton, the XRF joints stayed put.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Pulled the front cover off to drain and reseal it. All the bolts were loose, so I will just need to remember to tighten them up after each run like I do with the Sterling shaft bolts. I am almost positve that my front gear fluid is gettting water in it from me washing it off after runs through the axle tubes. I am sure it needs new inner axles seals, but that is a huge PITA, so might just keep changing the fluid ever couple of runs.
My next expense is going to have to be some sort of t-case with lower gearing. I really found myselft two-footing it alot at Clayton. Ideally I would keep my drivetrain length the same, thus avoiding new driveshafts and changes to x-members, skids, exhaust, etc. There are plenty of used Atlas' on POR, but they still want close to 2k. Staks are pretty high dollar as well.
The bumper/stigner worked very well in Clayton pushing smaller trees out of the way on the tigher trails. The cheap 1/2" Tuff Stuff syn winch line also worked well aside from the protecting sleeve that would get stuck in the fairlead.
Would like some legit lap and shoulder belts as well as a rear bumper/winch sometime in the next year.
link to winch line please.
I did some googeling after I posted that and thought that might be what you were talking about. I want to switch to synthetic but the prices sucks, it is almost as much as I payed for my superwinch. Please keep us updated on how this rope does, I just spent 30 mins reading reviews about how people are super leery of that rope because of its thickness and because it is just amsteel and not amsteel blue. Apparently, there is a large difference in strength between the two. However, the price of that looks great compared to others I have seen. Again, please keep me, and others, updated on its performance. Thanks.
Completely agree. I read all the stuff on Pirate, but no one had actually bought it and used it really. I am very curious to see how it does, but the significant price difference made me buy it. The other options seem ridiculously expensive. I put it through a couple of hard pulls at Clayton and had no issues. The protecting sleeve is a little janky, and seemed to get held up in the fairlead, but that was it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Picked up a new 2010 last week. 11k of sticker. It has all of the bells and whistles except for 20s, leather, and rear camera. Just a new toolbox and "old man tailgate pole thing" delete so far. It might get a winch and some BFG at some point. I love it so far, but the 5.5' bed will take some getting used to.
Nice truck :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Does yours have Ford's AdvanceTrac control? What is that?
Also Does it have the LCD display on the dash that indicates tilt, lean and wheel turning percentages? When the **** did ford start doing that?
It has several different traction control/roll stabilty control systems anda button that turns some of them on/off. I havent relaly figured that al out yet. The rear diff lock works great though. The only LCD is for the audioQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Found this:Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
And apparently even if you turn off AdvanceTrac it will turn back on at speeds > 35 mph, which is ghey.Quote:
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system provides the following stability enhancement features for certain driving situations:
• Traction Control (TCS), which functions to help avoid drive-wheel spin and loss of traction.
• Electronic Stability Control (ESC), which functions to help avoid skids or lateral slides
• Roll Stability Control™ (RSC), which functions to help avoid a vehicle roll-over.
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system automatically enables each time the engine is started. All features of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system (TCS, ESC, and RSC) are active and monitor the vehicle from start-up.
However, the system will only intervene if the driving situation requires it.
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system includes an AdvanceTrac with RSC Off control button on
the center of the instrument panel, and a “sliding car” icon in the instrument cluster. The “sliding car” icon in the instrument cluster will illuminate if a driving situation causes the AdvanceTrac with RSC system to operate. If the “sliding car” icon illuminates steadily, verify that the AdvanceTrac with RSC system is not manually disabled by pressing the AdvanceTrac with RSC Off button located on the center stack of the instrument panel. If the “sliding car” icon remains steadily illuminated, have the system serviced by an authorized dealer immediately.
When AdvanceTrac with RSC performs a normal system self-check, some drivers may notice a slight movement of the brake, and/or a rumble, grunting, or grinding noise after startup and when driving off.
When an event occurs that activates AdvanceTrac with RSC you may experience the following:
• A slight deceleration of the vehicle
• The “sliding car” indicator light will flash.
• A vibration in the pedal when your foot is on the brake pedal
• If the driving condition is severe and your foot is not on the brake, the brake pedal may move as the systems applies higher brake forces. You may also hear a whoosh of air from under the instrument panel during this severe condition.
The only drivers aid that seems to work is abs. When I was using my moms car in the snow in germany the traction control almost got me stuck several times. It got to the point that I turned the traction control off every time I got in the car. Traction control is for the weak and light footed.
I have a good friend who despises his traction control in the mud at his ranch, but he said that last week in the ice it was pretty helpful.
I have no vehcles with traction control, unless 4x4 counts :)
Holding the button down for 5 secs turns all that **** off.
But I think that is only at speeds lower than 35 mphQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
oh yeah, he cuts it off. its in an 07 avalanche 4x2 though, so a little different
Bryan to Arlington, witht he cruise set at 67, Avg mpg was 21.1. **** yeah.
Pulled old Diane home from Arlington last Friday. Probably 9k with trailer. Pulled ridiculously well. 80mph was easy. 13.2 avg mpg
point half ton gasser!
btw, why the 5.5 instead of 6.5?
I've heard chicks dig the 6.5, me personally, i have an 8. :)
that is some good mileage there, how many miles you have on it now?Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Not easy to findQuote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I have 3000 on it now
Got the 203/205 doubler from Tate.
It is set up with 3 shifters.
Let me know if I am right on this:
Shifter 1 controls the range box. Just two positions, engaged or disengaged?(hi/lo)
Shifter two controls the rear output. Has 3 positions, hi, neutral, low?
Shifter 3 controls the front output, has two positions, engaged or disengaged front axle?
It looks like my trans crossmember will not have to change. T-case skid will prob need to be redone, but there is a chance I can just slide it 4" or so down the frame rails and reinstall. This depends on if the 205 hangs much lower thatn the BW. The skid right now is very tight to the BW. Running a couple tubes from the trans xmember back to the skid to create a skid for the 203.
It is very heavy. I see the machined flat spot on the side of the 205 with 3 holes. Can I just make a plate for that, which would bolt on, then run a tube or some sort of 'arm' out the inner frame rail.
With the front engaged, the rear disengaged, and line lock holding the rear brakes, a full detroit, can I do amusing campground circus tricks?:D
Running a brace to the frame off the side of the 205 is deffinately a good idea. I am running one on Pigpen after breaking 3 TH400 housings. It seems to have fixed the issue.
the front output shifter should have 3 positions, low, neutral and hi, depending on if the rails were ground or modified then you can put the front in low with the rear in neutral, if this was not done i would recommend doing this as it makes making tight turns easier on the trail
this confused me.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
What I am reading says you grind the REAR rail.
It is done. Shifter 1 range box. Shifter 2 rear output H N L. Shifter 3 H N L. You have to shift 2 and 3 in a certain order to get in L L because the rail limits from front being in H and rear in L and vice versa.
OK, I have been playing with it some more. Problem I am having is that I can not get it in 4hi. The rear output will not go into the HI if the front output is engaged. Consequently, the front output will not enage if the rear is in HI.
IF the rear is in neutral, and the front is engaged, the front stays in LO. Is it suppose to have front HI only?
Oh and range box has H N L too
yes, it does, I was wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
You should be able to do hi in front, rear, or both. Put all 3 shifters in neutral, then try to start putting it in hi.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
For install, on the klogger I cut a 2" X 2" hole in the floor then ran a chain with a come-along to the case to pull it up. It made it a lost easier.
on 78ish fords there is a stock rubbber mount for the 205.