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they're two th350's with NP203's in houston craigslist. pretty sure you could by a combo for $100. I had to tell him what he had over email and he seemed desperate to sell, low ball him.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
a th350 trans and 203 won't be 10 spline
You ever notice how St. John just lurks until he can offer solid tech advice? I knew there was a reason I renew his dues every year! (Well that, and being continually in his debt through different deals.)
I have a 203 from behind a th350. It's not 10 spline. Was in a 77 K20. Will sell cheap.
Read the ORD link... It esplains all the trans/t-case and output combos completely.
When I put the 10.25 in the rear if the Jeep what will I need to swap out for the Discs? Master? anyone got any part numbers of what I need?
yeah swap out the master, search pirate but i believe there is a master from a dodge 3500 that bolts up to the booster fairly easily
edit: did the searching for you and to archive it for me, but there should be some good stuff in here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=780156
I am having I guess an electrical issue with the ZJ. THe old ass battery was alwasy dead, so I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. It cranked up fine for that weekend. I did not start it for another two weeks and the battery is dead. Jumps right off, but obviously something is draining the battery. Any common issues that you Jeep people might know of? I do not have a multimeter, but wouldn't know where to start if I did.
slow drains suck. You need a voltmeter or at least a test light. Easiest way to track the drain is to pull fuses one at a time and check voltage across the terminals. The circuit that shouldn't be hot but is is your culprit. Track the wiring to the short/faulty component.
Is your underhood or glovebox light staying on?
Not necessarily. There are many circuits that stay hot all the time but have no real load with the ignition off.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
The first place I would look would be any accessories that are installed (stereo, alarm etc.)
But short of pulling every fuse on everything, I would get a multi-meter that you can measure current with. My personal favorite is the clamp on ammeter. But that might cost more than the ZJ.
In my CJ, the alarm drains the battery. So I added an 80A breaker to the accessory circuit. I know that anything downstream of this gets disconnected when I trip it. When I park it in the garage, I open the breaker and hook up the trickle charger.
-Mark
I had that problem but it was draining a lot faster, overnight usually. It had something to do with the internal regulator on my alternator... I can't remember what we did but somehow we got an external regulator on it and that fixed the problem.
Thanks. It very well could be something with the alternator. It has been covered in mud for a while now.
mine did this. the $5 harbor freight multimeter can diagnose it. hook it inline with the battery +, measure current, un hook the alt b+ wire and watch it drop. Don't start the car with it hooked up this way, no headlights either. anything over 10 amp will kill the multimeter.
you know there's a replaceable fuse in there right?Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I think its just for show.
I'm looking at buying a supposedly chevy sm465/208 combo. It looks like a 465 and is a 4 spd. The only problem is it's a driver drop 208. Can the driver drop 208 be swapped out for a passengerside 208? The main reason for buying this combo would be to gain a hydraulic clutch assembly and the parts/ trans for a doubler down the road.
Edit- from the ord link it looks like the 208 passengerside drop from my th350 wouldn't work cause it has a 27 spline input and the 465 I'm looking at would have a 32 spline input. Is this correct or am I on crack?
I thought chevy crap was supposed to be easy and everything was interchangeable for the most part. I swear trying to make a doubler from the stuff I have is like trying to get rid of gay ass jeep quadra-trac.
Thanks again for bringing Frick into the darkside. Man I can't wait to get my Internet hooked up so that I can search for some of this crap on a real computer not on my phone.
Yes, TH350 t-cases have 27 spline inputs, you need a 32. Incidentally, I have a 32 spline input passenger drop 208 at my shop I'll sell you cheap :gigem:
They're only $1.99 last time i checked:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Well the case that came with my new trans has a driver drop. I read that I can swap the input fairly easy to change to 32 spline.
Hypothetically speaking, lets say one was removing the intake from a Ford 351C and snapped the front passenger bolt off. Lets say this person then expertly hole punched the center of the bolt, drilled it out, removed the remaining threads and was running a tap down the hole to clean it up. Further lets "hypothetically" say the 5/16"-18 tap broke off in the engine block just as this person was finishing.... Then lets say this person created quite a few new cuss words.
Where would this person be able to buy a tap extractor set like this one from Walton tools or something similar in Houston?
Luckily, it is a thru hole, anyone ever plasma'd one out. I am thinking, I mean hypothetically this person is thinking of trying that out.
I swear, you could **** up a wet dream.
In the grand scheme of things, how important is that one bolt really???
if it's a thru-hole oil (blow-by)will probably come out it with no bolt
How do you break a tap whilst chasing threads?
Frick, you better just put him down.
http://tragicheroes.wikidot.com/loca...rge/Lennie.jpg
if i were the person I would leave the tap in there and leave out one bolt and add some rtv to keep the blowby down
JB weld FTW!
This must be a fake situation, because ford never made an efi 351 C. Said person does have 2 351 W efi motors. :flipoff2:
I would agree with leaving the bolt out, if it was in the center of the manifold. This is the front pasenger bolt. Right where the water passage for thermostat is. I think it is important, unless a 351 likes water in the intake and in the oil.
I have no idea, it was the oddest thing. I was spinning it down hand tight. Just the little tap handle, very little force and all of the sudden "crack"Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Any chance of using the welding rod technique? Just zing it to the center of the broken tap, then spin out? Other than that, I've used reverse drill bits with success. I know they may not drill into the tap, but just the spinning in reverse will sometimes back it out. This tap isn't broken flat at all though is it?
they make a tool that has 3 rods that go down each side to lock in the broken tap so it can be screwed out
really? maybe like this one? I wonder if they have them in Houston somewhere?
http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm
No Jimmy, I think he was thinking of something more like this...
those extractors have saved my ass more than once
You guys quit picking on Biloh...
Please read my post at 7:42 am today. Pay attention to the words that are underlined. In this case the underline is designating that the word is actually a link to another website. A website is a magical place on the interweb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
Oh rly?
What does full float axle mean? What is semi float?
Flame suit is on.
short answer?Quote:
Originally Posted by NealtheDestroyr
semi float axles have the hub integral to the axle shaft. full float axles have the hub on a spindle, separate from the shaft. the benefit of a full float is the exle shaft is not in bending, just torsional stress. google for better explanaton and pictures, it will be easier to understand.