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Thanks Tate. I got it figure out now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
The front output has to be in neutral then shift the rear to HI, then shift the front to HI. Its preventing HI in one axle, LO in the other.
Does it have fluid in it? Did you just silicon it all together? It will prob be easier to take it apart and install a piece at a time.
Going to probably wait till after TCC to start putting it together
Make sure you fill both cases, The 203 and the 205, they are not joined together.
Thinking about it some more, I need a x-member that attachs to the ORD adapter. Looks like it has two threaded holes there already.
Both cases are empty right now. And it will not be easier to install one at a time because you won't have the space to bolt them together. Eric and I put it in using a rachetstrap and a lot of effort. I like Karl's idea though.
When I get home I will post some pics of my cross member.
Meh, it looks better, but there was not really a way to make it looks good. I used some weatherstripping to cover all the sharpe edges. Getting the fuel filler moved was a bitch. Cut out way more floor than I intended. I still need to pull the column, get it fixed, and reintall before TCC
You kinda have to picture a new wrap around bumper that "wraps" up on the side and covers the tub.
Sport cut FTW!
Have this week off so decided on some maintenace. Yummy.
new stabbin cabin.
I think you just officially got older.
So to save yourself, you need a neon "Now serving #..." sign for the window. :D
And that sign should be on #71......
Driving old Diane this week. I love this truck.
I built most of the bed platform for the camper shell this past weekend. Should look pretty good. I want to paint the shell but its looking like 300-$400 to get that done. I want to make this truck suitable for my Colorado trips while still keeping it capable to pull the Bronco to as far as Clayton or K2. I won't use the term 'expedition rig', but you get the idea.
For whatever reason, the transmission hiccup has completely gone away. Not sure why, but it hasn't been driven much in the last few months. Drives great and pulled the slightly loaded trailer with the heavily loaded bed up to DFW the other night just fine.
Before the late summer Colorado/Utah/possible NOCAL trip, it needs a few things
-replace the 130k+ mile Bilsteins
-maybe sliders if I can find something or someone to make it look clean
-rack mounted to the shell?
-maybe a front bumper.
-copy the front diff skid with just heavier gauge material
As for the Donkey, I think the rear sheet metal has to go. My buddy that has done most of the fab work has a new home shop, so I think some reworking of the rear cage and some truggification is not far off. Doubler crossmembers will be in the works as well.
Other than thats, I think the only issue is the damn inner 60 seals leaking, and I am not all that exciting about tearing down the whole thing to replace those.
http://mad4wd.com/index.php?main_pag...roducts_id=162
click images to enlarge
Dana 60 Outer Axle Seal
$65.00
Work with all Ford, GM and Dodge OEM housings manufactured from 3.125" to 3.250" with a .500" wall thickness.
Works with Original and Aftermarket 30 and 35-Spline Shafts.
Designed to prolong life of inner axle seals and keep dirt and water from entering housing.
Completely molded design with Nickel plated bodies.
Installed seal with silicon on outside, pack cavity with grease, install shaft.....done.
Kit does one complete axle (2 seals per kit).
http://mad4wd.com/bmz_cache/3/3a37f3...ge.185x148.jpg
Tommy- that seems like a horrible band-aid fix, wouldn't oil leak through to the axle tubes and maybe get stuck there leaving the diff low?
JB- Bring it over to Dowling and I could fix you up some sliders, might get me motivated to make some for my truck
No, you still have to put new inner seals in but it protects them from dirt and sand.
I am thinking of installing the doubler and temp. supporting it with a ratchet strap while I get the new shafts made. At that point, I need to get it to Greg's house so we can start on the crossmembers. I can winch it on the trailer, but will need it to move on its own to get it from the trailer and into his backyard shop. Will 280+ pounds hanging off the back of my AOD hardly supported be ok for this short distance. I'm thinking it will be fine.
Bought a trans adpater thing for my floor jack, so I thin kI am going to start soon.
Yes, I think that would work for the short distance. I went to Alto with mine and only had the doubler supported (I had no trans cross member)
Got all the old stuff out. Might need some help getting the doubler in if any of you still in college scrubs want to help.
Text me, I'm free tomorrow
Doubler install successful. Thanks alot Tommy. It was alot easier than I was expecting. I plan to measure for shafts tomorrow and see waht BVD can do for me.
I have not mounted up the shifters yet, but hopefully they will work.
Think I can get away with just a xmember under the doubler adapter plate? or do I need a support on the 205 too? I have probably asked that question before. I think I do.
I tucks up nicely, higher than I thought it would. I beat up on the underbody, but I do not think I had too.
i would run a support off of the 205 also, not only for weight but also for the added torque, i had issues with breaking cross members until i added one and sharpe kept breaking his transmissions
Most people seem to have issues if they do not support the 205. There are 2 holes in the side where you can use a stock Ford part to make it happen.
Deffinately run the brace off the side of the 205.
Where can I find teh stock Ford 205 mount?
ATF in the 205? and 80w90 in the 203?
I think they both call for 30 weight, ATF is closer to 20.
looks like 205 gets gear oil, 30 weight in the 203
http://www.alltransparts.com/oil-chart/
Everyone runs gear oil in both. The 203 is just gears anyway, **** it. JB, building the foot from scratch will probably be your best bet.
Travis doesn't have one.
my 203 is puking 80w90. try running 30w.
I am going to make it a solid mount, since both trans and engine mounts are solid.
My NP435, NP203, and NP 205 all run 85W90, it makes it simpler. I have no issues with leaks. ATF started being used to increase fuel mileage, there is some other problem with gear oil foaming on a chain driven t-case.
Also, I did not know your engine was solid mounted, The hole thing being solid mount scares me...
general rule of thumb it seems. if the case is cast use 90 wt if it is alluminum use atf.....
brian also broke a bunch of crossmembers till he tied them all together. def do both
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
is there an echo in this thread :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
:D
Got it up on jackstand in the garage playing with the different patterns. I really want to go do a front dig.
I put 80w90 in both b/c its what I had.
I had BVD shorten and lengthen the driveshafts both 3.5". Not the cheapest, but I got them back 4 hrs later.
The shifters were a PITA to get situated, but I got it done, and ordered some nice shift knobs from JBfab.net. The shfiter boots and mount plate should end up looking decent.
Hopefully I can get the crossmember/skid built pretty soon.
Since being under this pile so much over the last couple days, I plan on replace all teh fuel and return lines from rail pump back to the tank as they have been cut and spliced several times. Also, my rear shocks and shock mounts are trashed. Need to get them up above the axle.
The ram mounted to the diff cover has been working fine, but every other run, the cover starts to leak, but simply tightening the loose bolts back up stops the leak comlplety. I will lock tight them next time.
looks good, will your new shifter knobs have the shift pattern on them?
yes
You're gonna break some **** with solid mounts and flexy frame.