Doh. You were well on your way to having a Kopecki moment and getting towed back to town backwards.
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Doh. You were well on your way to having a Kopecki moment and getting towed back to town backwards.
Not very fun when one of those breaks on the trail.
How many times are you going to have to build this before it stays together?
When's your jeep going to be done?
I think it was October 2006.
That was a different jeep.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Brady has a good chance of graduating college before Cokcs finishes his misterpiece...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
A Buster graduating college?!?!Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
:flipoff2:
He's a Burnes thankyouverymuch... :flipoff2:
(there is still hope for him I think)
Got started painting my wheels tonight. I am about to buy the other two tires so the wheels needed to be prepped. They have been recentered and sandblasted for about two years, so they have developed some rust from sitting. I *could* have paid to have them sandblasted again but didnt really want to drop that much coin, so I just wire brushed em off and wiped down with acetone. I used this primer
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ff/wheelz2.jpg
because it specifically says it can be applied over light surface rust. I scraped the minimal scale off so it was GTG. The only thing that sucks about the primer is it calls for 16-24 hours of curing time before applying paint over it. Since it is humid as **** down here I am leaning towards the longer end of that, but I dont want to start painting at 9pm tomorrow night. The **** is ****ing radiant in this pic
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...uff/Wheelz.jpg
Here's the compressor I used for the painting with its brand spanking new pressue cutoff switch and popoff valve. Thanks goes to Cook and Flem for esplainin wiring the new switch in. Its rated at like 8 cfm at 90 psi and handled the draw like a champ
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ff/wheelz3.jpg
I deffinately need to address the air drying situation though. It was probably only 70-80% humidity here tonight but it still seems to be an issue. I have a cheapass Craftsman drier/seperator mounted on the tank and then ran a disposable filter element and then a final desicant drier to my bitchin Harbor Freight gun, seen here
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ff/wheelz4.jpg
Even as the last filtering element in the system, the desicant drier appeared to be half used up by the time I was done. I am planning on spraying three coats tomorrow so I will need to go buy another one...or two. It is a Kobalt brand from Lowes and the desicant inside turns clear when it is saturated and needs to be replaced. Prety spiffy. TSC had a "fancy" Cambel-Hauswhatever drier/seperator but it was ~$130 so I am going to do some research before I spend that much on something like that. I'm thinking about making a bootyfab cooler using an old truck a/c condensor and a box fan, but didnt have time to **** with it tonigh.
I also need a regulator at the gun. I looked at them today but figured the regulator coming off my tank would be sufficient. It isnt. There is no gauge after the regulator so I dont know exactly how low it goes. The way the gun was spraying indicates it was not low enough though. The pattern was not very dense and no amount of ****ing with the needle could adjust it enough. I dont know if the paint might have been a contributing factor though. The can said not to thin it if spraying and it seemed a little on the thick side. But, I cant say for sure since this is my first time ever painting anything with a gun. I'm going to get a little inline regulator tomorrow before I lay any actual paint and see where that gets me.
/blog :flipoff2:
nice rim stiffeners/rock rings. :D
Sharpe where did you get the new pressure switch/ cutoff? I gave a harbor freight compressor that needs one.
tractor supply sells them
:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
dude you may have stolen my record for amount of time wasted trying to make the wheels on an off-road rig look good :flipoff2:
From now on, no more xo-rust paint. The **** takes at least 8 hours to cure between coats, **** that. The Rustoleum I'm using on the outer rings takes ~30 minutes before its ready for the next coat, which is about how long it takes to do all 4 rings. The xo-rust also seems to spray like ****. On the can, it says not to thin it at all if spraying and while it isnt that thick, it could be thinner. I thinned the rustoleum per the instructions and it sprayed awsome. The gun even responded to tuning adjustments! I found an OLD can of the same gloss black xo-rust and it says if you thin to use xy*** sparingly, so I'm going to try that on a piece of scrap tomorrow and if it works ok, use it for the second coat.
I added another air drier today and while it had moisture in it when I was done, the (new) disposable desicant was used up by the time I was done with the first coat on the inner wheel halves. The paints I am using are bubba-farm-use kinda **** so I dont see a little moisture causing any serious problems but if I do any serious body work in the future, I am going to invest in a real cooler/dehumidifier. I am putting a decent effort into making these look good but I am doing this more for practice at using a paint gun, and saving money (vs. aerosol cans).
Oh yah, the bucket fell off the HF paint gun at one point. Shaking it around loosened the locking tab. Made a big ****ing silver mess.
xo rust may take awhile, but its the best stuff for your application
If you wanna get into painting I would get an hlvp gravity feed gun for your next project. I like mine a lot better that the style like you have.
You have got to be ****ing kidding me. I tried to get a quote for the last two 42's I need to buy from Foothill Motorsports and they said the tires are on backorder until June or July because Interco is on strike. FML. Maybe 4wp has some in stock somewhere. Do we have any kind of vendor hookup for tires?
I thought there was a shortage, because denham (sp?) tire was closing and had produced many of their tires. I think i read that on here or on pirate...maybe pirate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
We are having problems finding 33-35" tires for vehicles on our lot right now. Suppliers keep blaming China... :rolleyes:
Built a new, hopefully straighter, front driveshaft today. It started with a two piece rear shaft from a Chevy LWB truck.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0706.jpg
The splined portion of this shaft had a major diameter of 1.5"
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0707.jpg
I am using 2" 1/4 wall square for the inner part of the slip, perfect. I cut the male splined part off the original shaft, it will be used to align the trimmed down yoke with the inner square tube before final welding.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0708.jpg
All done. ~38" long fully compressed.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0709.jpg
A little over a foot of slip while maintaining adequate engagement. I used 2 1/2" 1/4 wall for the outer tube so a notch had to be ground into the inner tube to clear the seam.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0710.jpg
Installed and GTG.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...f/IMG_0712.jpg
that is going to grenade it self and you are going to kill a bus load of orphaned nuns....
The weight...is sign of reliability!
Looks good!
Got the truck up to 30-35 MPH in 4wd and the front driveshaft vibration is barely noticable. Much better than my old one for sure.
Due to this tire shortage issue, I am tossing around a few ideas. 4WP and Foothill Motorsports both said it would be July before the 42's are available again, and I'm not going to wait that long. I have this dumbass plan of installing a rockwell rear with a pair of 53" Michelin XL's on the back and my 42's on the front. The 6.71 gears in the rockwell and a 5.13 gear swap in the D60 net a ~3% difference in linear motion per revolution with their respective tires. This difference should be negligible enough on dirt to not cause any problems. The ride height can be leveled out by raising the rear spring hangers and/or adding lift springs in the front. This is some crazy redneck **** but I have been thinking about it for awhile and it would fit Pigpen's image overall.
Try to talk me out of it :flipoff2:
And that's all I have to say about that. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Principal from Billy Madison
Only if you do nothing about the ride height difference, will I consider this an even remotely good idea... and you better not leave off the echo tips!
there was chevy truck(red wit tear off graphix) like that in four wheeler long ago,. I thought it was cool in redneck sorta way although now that i think about it it had super wide turf tires on it so I don't know how cool pizza cutter michelins would be
Its name was "Quagmire" and it was in the 1998 Top Truck Challenge, which I have on VHS :gigem: It had some kind of front loader rear axle with 60+" directional tractor tires on the back and a D60 and 40" Ground Hawgs (!) on the front. Had a 500 HP BBC with a 250 shot of nitrous too. As you might expect, it ****ing dominated the mud pit...Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
It was featured in an article called "Quagmire" and entered one of the first Top Truck Challenges. Not surprising, but the guy dominated the mud bog and log run but couldn't get more than a few feet through the rock garden.
EDIT: damn you Sharpe.
I would sooner talk you into it.
How's the shortage of 44" tires? Maybe get a full set of those and sell your 42s at a premium since they can't be gotten.
Do it....
ill trade you a rockwell for a 14bolt
Rollin' on four fours. Doeet!
do eet
rockwell do it
give ryan a 14bolt for a rockwell and xmls do ettt!!!!!!
x87Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
I'm jerry goss, and I support this venture!
i will support this decision as long as i can take pics
and what's wrong with danny's 40s?