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alright tcc breakage rundown. First off is the twisted rear driveshaft. Then I found out that the amc 20 took a beating. The passanger tube is bent upward by over an inch. Instead of fixing it I'm going to go this route.
Ford 9" housing narrowed to EB width, 35 spline spool, 4.86 gears, strange case, d-60 spindles, moser full floating shafts, d-60 disk brakes. It should be all done by the end of next week (hell, it has to be so I can drive to work)
pics of broken cr*p
heres some more super sh*ty pics of my solution to the arb air pump buring out at tcc. I'm going to run the solinoids directly off co2, so i rigged up a port in the dash and a t-manifold with the two solinoids.
why full float? it seems like alot of extra money for little advantage? and alot more weight
make sure you truss the top of the 9 too
I'm buying one that is already built this way. It is missing brakes though so I'll put those on.
sweet, alright great reason then
on the ARB air, i would make sure and put a pressure regulator behind there because I believe that more than 90 PSI will blow the seals
I thought they needed to be regulated even more than that, I think casey uses his at like 40. the less pressure u use the less it will smell like gear oil in the interior
it is closer to 10 psi, when he "tested" it out at TCC they regulated it down to 10 and they worked.
i would still put another gauge on there
the pumps regulator shut it off at 30 so thats what i'm going to run them at.
Description
Dorman 615-134 Axle/Spindle Nut
Dorman 615-134 Axle/Spindle Nut Features:
• Type: 15
• Thread: 2"-16L
• Hex Size: 3"
• Height: 3/4"
• Application: Ford Truck Repair
• OE#:
• Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade - Boxed
Still slowly working on this thing when I come into town. Found out the axle was not from a 70s E-250 like the owner told me but from a 87-90 E-350 Econoline non club wagon either custom or xl trim. Which is the reason by the ballistic fab disk brake brackets didn't work. I'll be getting ruffstuff ones instead.
Also took off the yj master and will be replacing with 68 corvette from manual 1" bore. I think it will bolt up to the yj booster but have not confirmed that yet.
Also took off the stock proportioning valve and lines. Will be running the front straight from the master, and while I'm at it I'm going to run the front lines like the rear (one soft line down to hard line on the axle). The rear will be dialed in with a willwood proportioning valve I picked up at Smiley's in Dallas.
Jeep "to do" list. . .
Brakes
-finish install front hard lines
-buy/install rear pads
-install new rear brackets
-remove old rear brackets
-buy/install front soft lines
-bleed
-tune prop valve
Transmission
-fix shifter cover
-fill with gear oil
-install new trans cover/boot
Rear axle
-buy/install pinion guard
-buy/weld truss
-install new bearing nut on driver side
-possibly swap gears?
Cross member
-remove old
-build/install new
Transfer case
-bend shifter to clear CO2 fitting
Engine
-buy/install new battery
-install new contour electric fan/shroud
-remove old fan
Front axle
-build new 609?
-re-gear front to 4.88, 4.56, 4.10?
Good thing the deadline is clayton
axle shots
new disk brake brackets, needed that bend to clear rotor
new contour dual fans
What are you doing to control the fans?
Oh and step away from the black spray paint.... :flipoff2:
I haven't decided. I'm thinking of having one fan run continuously and the other on a temp probe.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Be-Cool-Radiat...53117/10002/-1
Use the 'hottest' two (195 and 210). If you run one continuously, the engine thermostat should keep the engine warm enough to run correctly but that is alot to ask of your alternator and battery. With some thought into the switches, you can set them up to be turned off in water crossings or both on if needed.