maybe that they are danny's:rolleyes:. also pigpin only deserves to look as dumb as possible
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maybe that they are danny's:rolleyes:. also pigpin only deserves to look as dumb as possible
ya but if danny doesn't need them for anything, maybe he would take some kind of compensation to wheel them until July and the 42s become available. I agree it would look retarded and so is well suited for pigpen, however, it seems like a lot of unnecessary work.
who the hell said you could bring logic into anything done with this club. we have a strong precedent of throwing it out the window and it has "worked" well for us so far.....
I did not know that 5.38's were easily available for D60's. With them, the difference in linear motion per driveshaft rotation between each axle is ~1%. Now to decide between US Standard, Yukon or Richmond gears. Priced at $178, $282 and $297, respectively. Deffinately leaning towards the US Gears, thats a prety big price jump.
is this permanent? if so, you better not be a fag and get a steering rock for the rear.
Way too fuggin expensive.
Where'd your fuzzy math go, Flem?
what are you talking about?
what does 5.86 get you? They make those as well that's what I will be running.
5.38 is just about perfect, plus this is getting into tiny pinion territory.
yeah my pinion is pretty small with 5.13s
i went with richmond gears but I found a new set for $200
I am excited this thing is going to be sweet and should actually work well especially with so much unsprung weight in the rear
either go with the cheap genuine gear, or spend the cheddar on precision gears
How 'bout some *fairly* cheap Motive Gears?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-...item359d1111f8
FWIW 4WP lists these at $275
the genuine gear should have a life time warranty, so if they do explode you can get them replaced fo free. If you want to spend the money on quality then stick with precision, they are a little tricky to set up but ive done a few.
my motives ran good
Flem, is it hypothetically possible to install a circuit into a drive by wire computer to activate a 12 volt signal at a certain percentage of throttle? In this case, a TH400 kickdown switch.
yes, but I'd have to think about this one. I think there are 3 potentiometers in that pedal and one is the inverse of the other. You could be ghetto and tap into 1 and have it control a transistor that controls a relay, or you could source the plugs, build something that doesn't look like a piece of crap and use all 3 in some sort of failsafe way.
Are there no solutions to this available? What does the kickdown signal control? Any idea on the amps it would draw?
There are aftermarket mechanical options but they require a mechanical connection to the throttle. On the ones I have seen, it would be prohibitively difficult to attach to the actual pedal and there is no linkage of any kind protruding from the electronic throttle body. The signal makes the transmission downshift when you mash the throttle. No idea on amperage, but probably blue butt-conector range.
find a diagram from the pedal connector and I'll see what I can do
is 8100 a specific pedal, or is the tac module specific?
find the right pin on the PCM and see what you can do...Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Pedals are universal, TAC's are app specific.
Foty toos. About 4 years in the making...
http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/IMG_0839.jpg
Brand new TSL's on the rear, worn out IROKs on the front. Respect.
Bout damn time you got them new shoos on! Looks good. Ought to be a real panty dropper at shiloh! :gigem:
Looks good, what is your wheel base? It looks long.
He's around 120 I think.
you gonna put some toob on that thing?
Yes, tubework is coming up after a few other projects get done. My wheel base is, in fact, ~120".
Respek!
Sharpe, are your spindle nuts the 'common' ones for 60's? If so, I was thinking of trying to find some for the next time I have to take mine apart. I will have to see what kind I have on the green 60 in the barn.
Is the green 60 complete/ for sale?
It is torn down somewhat right now and will have dually hubs w/ it right now as I swapped the single wheel hubs onto the beast. It also has a bunch of bracketry welded on it for a fourlink and dual single ended cylinders for steering.
I am sure I want way too much for it right now, and I would want to sell the 14b along w/ it, and it is missing the carrier and ring gear (I think I still have the ring gear somewhere, just not sure).
eh, not the kind of 60 I'm looking for anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
haha, no problem.
As far as I know yes, they are the common 4 prong stock nuts. I remember reading on pirate awhile back about some fancy aftermarket nuts that are somehow garaunteed not to come loose but a quick google search didnt turn anything up. I half-assed want to replace my front nuts with 6 prong units to match the 14 bolts' so I'll only need one socket, but havent ever actually put any effort towards that endeavour. A complete kit is available here http://completeoffroad.com/i-123167-...60-6prong.html
Oh, I see. When you handed me the 6 prong when we were putting the hubs back on, I just assumed that was what you had on yours.
In my never-ending quest to make my High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake work, I think I have finally settled on this lever
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...tuff/lever.jpg
Found herehttp://store.colemans.com/cart/emerg...dle-p-721.html
Its prety simple, rugged and cheap, so I believe it will get the job done nicely. Yes, I have seen the Lokar lever and I like this one better. Its uglier, more durable looking, and cheaper. Win. The only thing that sucks is that website has a $15 minimum order, so I might buy one of their overpriced ammo cans to bump my total up unless someone else wants something from there.
The next item of concern is the jacketed cable needed to connect the lever to the arm on the brake caliper. I cant be sure exactly how everything will fit into place without having the parts in hand, but if it works out the way I am envisioning it in my head, the cable will need to be ~18-24" long. The cable needs to have a 2-3" stroke and I have no idea what the tensile stress on the cable will be, but 100 pounds seems like a good start. Finding a cable this short seems to be an issue. McMaster Carr p/n 3125K89 is the shortest I've been able to locate at 3 feet long and I can probably make it work. Each end is 9 1/2" long which leaves ~17" of flexi-ness in the middle.
You don't need a few extra 10-bolts to hold your back yard down?
http://store.colemans.com/cart/front...-gi-p-849.html
thats actually a good deal for someone just keeping a stock blazer on the road. shipping kill it?
Sharpe, are you guys 100% sure that my e-brake and CV flange for the atlas never showed up from high-angle? I was checking yesterday to make sure it had been paid for so that I could call Jess and find out where it's at. Either way, order me one of the levers too if that will get you over the minimum order.