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Get brake lines made at Bryan Hose off 21.
What the **** are you talking about here "I plan on drilling a hole in the tr and sleeving the hole with some toob and then putting a bolt through it." Are you talking about a redneck inverted y steering setup. Just run the "1 ton" (really 1/2 and 3/4 ton chevy stuff) tie rod ends that are all ready setup for an inverted y steering.
like the stock bronco setup
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...llsize/088.jpg
This is why i'm asking questions. with high steer can I use the steering that comes on the axle and just move it up?
You can run a t steering setup and have the drag link and tie rod go to the steering arm on the pass. side but you have to get the arm with two holes for this. Or you could run the inverted y steering and just have the drag link go to the tie rod. Like this. . . http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=564
Just get a kit for this. . . where i got mine. . . http://completeoffroad.com/i-124127-...44-and-60.html
Edit: if the taper of the stock steering tie rod ends matches the taper on the new high steer arm and pitman arm the yes, just move up the stock stuff. You might have to shorten the tie rod a bit because the new high steer arm are more than likely angled in more severely than the stock lower arms.
bad I idea with whatever you want to do hear.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
if you need to mount something to the Tie rod use one of these
That looks like it would slide when i'm in a bind
they are strong if torqued correctly, people use tube clamps for hydro assist mounting points all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Once it is adjusted correctly, you can always tack/weld it in place.
Do what you can to find the correct highsteer/crossover arms and not have to worry about your tierod like that.
Also by having true crossover with the drag link going to the highsteer arm you are increasing the leverage by extending the fulcrum point, thus making your steering effort less.
* I would skip the F-350 springs, they will be stiff. I would use 1/2 ton springs. They are the same width as the 1 tons, so they will work.
* Ball joint 60, F' that in the A, save up 200 or 300 more and get the kingpin, it makes life a lot better
* Brake lines, in the rear, the stock line should work. It is what Frick used on Big Nasty, it is what I use on my sterling. The front, You should be able to order some extended brake lines from super lift, rough country, etc... that will work.
* Steering, there is a debate over this, but F' tie rod ends in my opinion. Use heims, they do not wobble back and forth like TRE's plus you do not have to use a tapered hole.
* Oh most importantly, sell the Bronco, buy something that is not a tird, like a mid 90's crew cab :flipoff2:
RearQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Stock ford 1/2 ton leafs, with a shackle flip will flex the best and wrap the most. Maybe do a shackle flip and mix a couple of your 4" in leaves in with a stock pack to get more flex with less wrap.
Brakeline, - I used the factory line along with another line I had laying around and hooked them together. The stock line might be long enough im not sure.
Make sure and find a sterling with 4.10's because the install kit for a sterling is really expensive, to re gear a sterling I think you are going to be spending about $400 or more in parts alone.
Front
I would not get a superduty 60 unless you can get a pair of axles for under $500. I would generally stay away from them because of the added cost to rebuild one( ie the unit bearings which are about $165 a side). Karl is right save an extra 2-300 and get a kingpin 60 and save yourself alot of headache.
For springs I cant say much because I ran coils. I think John Brown runs f-350 springs, or you can go do the chevy 52's up front, but prepare to buy an add a leaf for them or an bar because they flex awesome/wrap bad. Also you will have to run a square front d shaft(homo), or get a long travel splined section to weld into your current shaft.
As far as brake lines just measure what you need and go to bryan hoes and gasket.
For the steering if you wanna make some bastard ghetto abortion of a ford stock steering on a crossover setup you can get a factory chevy one ton tie rod end that already has a tapped hole built into the tierod for this type of steering.
I would run heims though like karl said.
In summary bend over and get ready to spend a bunch of money because to go one ton it is gonna cost a ton of money.
-Sterling 10.25 or Dana 70u
-Stock f-350 leafs (I could use my superlift leafs but they are really stiff)
**I would use stock leafs. I run stock 86 Bronco leafs with a add-a-leaf, and the shackle flipped. It flexes enough and I do not have axle wrap. Biggest issue is the low hanging shackle. F450 shackles are beefier, but still will bend
-Shackle flip
**Yes, the brackets I used are the same brackets that hold in the front of the rear leaf spring.
-Use existing shocks
I would imagine you will need longer shocks. Ranchos are in stock at Oreillys and are cheap when you trash one.
-brake lines-i don't know what to do here
disc brakes. You will hate 10.25 drums. If you are going to bitch about money, then keep the shoes and do not even waste time gettting drums turned or putting new shoes on it
-welded diff
sure
-turn drums, new shoes
wouldn't waste the time
Front:
-Balljoint 60 (there is a rumor that gordon's has one on the rack)
The biggest bitch about the BJ knuckle is the difficulty in getting high steer or even crossover. If you are ok with the TR being at stock height, then go for it. I have not had any strength related issues with my BJ axle.
-Stock f350 leafs with shackle flip, my frame is 32.5" from outside to outside, from what I can tell on the interweb it says that the 01 superduty frame is 36", so i'll have to outboard the leafs about 2" on each side.
I am unsure on how 78-79 frames compare to the later models like mine, but there are a ****load of pics of my swap on my superford site. I run stock 93 F350 front leafs with the short overload removed. The only fab was building the front crossmember and hangers. The rear leaf hangers are stock hangers from 80-97 F250/350. They bolt on and put the spring where it needs to be. With the shackel in the back, it puts the leaf pretty low, but I just have delt with bending the shackles and just replace them ever couple years
-Machine top of knuckles for high steer
no
-dom tube with screw in tr ends for tie rod
sure
-Drag link-dom tube with tr ends. I plan on drilling a hole in the tr and sleeving the hole with some toob and then putting a bolt through it.
What?
-new bearings and seals
-hd diff cover
-turn rotors, new pads
-Good u-joints in shafts
-new ball joints
search XRF balljoints and get those
-Brake lines, again, i don't know what to do hereI think origianlly I did not have a problem with the stock lines bolting on.
Hopefully 39.5 iroks
Driveshafts?
make some stock ones work if you can. Or consult Dexter House for square tub driveshaft tech
I'm going for simplicity here, seems to work well for JB.
Any insight Jb? Frick?
**
Also, are you talking about a superduty 60? Why are you getting measurements from an 01? I am not sure how 99+ D60s compare dimension-wise to the 92-97 D60s.
Most 99 f250's are actually Dana 50's... I had one.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
yes, I use one for full hydro and I have yet to have it slip on me, it is a very well machined pieceQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
skip going witht the leafs, you have everything there to do a coil swap, it takes a LOT of work to do a leaf swap on that year truck to keep it low and stable(just ask cook).
As for the steering, use hiems where ever you can, TRE's suck balls and wear out too fast.
The 60 gordons has has been there forever, they know what they have and want close to a g for it. Just look for a good deal.
Lastly, get that piece of **** out of my yard!!!!