Did you stab the distributor in the right spot.
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Did you stab the distributor in the right spot.
so no spark, right?
put a test light on an injector and see if it blinks
Shouldn't matter, there's no spark at all, but it was marked on the plastic part that goes on top of the distributor that the cap attaches to.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I'll try that in the morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Sometimes the spark is hard to see. Spray some starter fluid in it. If it kind of goes over with starter fluid, it is sparking. Also check the relays, there is one for the computer, fuel pump, etc... I have wiring diagrams for your truck on the computer if you need them.
Got it running, did the brakes and put in a F350 vacuum booster. Turns out there was a short in the wires near the ICM. Just finished the brakes so I haven't driven it to see how much it helped, but the pedal feels way more firm than before. Anything is an improvement over the old brakes. Also have a real bad exhaust leak at the passenger side manifold, might find some used headers to put on there, and a muffler.
I think the next things I'm going to do is finish painting it and hurculine the bed and the floor inside, then paint the hurculine inside gray to match the old carpet color. Has anybody done roll on liner inside? I was thinking 4 layers so it's real thick.
I did one layer. Its way too thin, I needed to do 3.
Get gray herculiner so you don't have to paint it.
Herculiner sucks anyways.
Herculiner does suck, just save up some money and pay someone to put a decent liner in, it will be worth the money
i did herculiner in the inside of my bronco, lots of prep and it held up great, but for a bed get a good spray in liner
Not related to any smog pump shenanigans (I'm leaving it in), but my battery was dead this morning, so I got out the test light and pulled fuses and noted which ones dimmed the light. Number 9 in the power distribution box (electronic engine control system, fuel pump relay coil) and number 13 in the regular fuse panel (stop/hazard lamps, stop sense for electronic engine control, abs, "Keep alive memory", electronic engine control, speed control) are the ones that in combination got the test light to just about turn off. Would a loose connector to the Ignition Control Module cause the battery to drain overnight? The connector was replaced last week and if the connector are in just the right position, the engine will die.
Test your battery? The cold weather is hard on them.
Happened with 2 batteries and the stupid light comes on for voltage. I got a new connector and am putting it on after my sisters basketball game.
Picked up some manual swap parts today, pedals, transmission access hole cover, the little cover for the guages so it won't say PRND21 anymore, and a few other small parts. Would it be okay to just take off the automatic shifter arm and put the manual steering column cover over it, and not swap the whole steering column? And would hydraulic clutch (master and slave cylinders) be alright used or would it be better new?
you can buy the master and slave used and then just buy the much cheaper rebuild kits from the local auto part store. It basically replaces all the internals of both while keeping the cheaper used body/housings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling