Yah, there's deff no **** from HAD here for you. My stuff is easily identifiable because it has ~6 years worth of storage rust and dust on it.
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Yah, there's deff no **** from HAD here for you. My stuff is easily identifiable because it has ~6 years worth of storage rust and dust on it.
Yeah, we had discussed this before, but I wanted to double check before I throw this back at him. ;)
I'll take one Sharp.
I'm not sure if these are over priced, but if not, I'll take one of these also: http://store.colemans.com/cart/ammo-...-mm-p-225.html
Maybe shipping them is $$?
Shipping to Wylie on that box is $25, I think that's what makes them overpriced... :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
Only the .30 and .50 cal cans are about twice the going rate. The larger ones are prety well priced but shipping on them is killer. I usually get the bigger ones at gun shows.
Well as y'all know my power steering box locked up at K2 in April. Since it was a reman from O'Reillys, I went ahead and warrantied it. I had to drill and tap the new box for the hydro assist and got that done on thursday night. In the course of tapping it, the worm gear came partially out. I stuck it back in and hoped the balls didnt get ****ed up, but they did. When I installed it, there was a severe pop in the middle of the steering stroke. The old box had a minor pop at a random point in the stroke and it failed, so I knew this wasnt gonna work. I took it back out today and tore the box apart completely. Nothing was completely ****ed so I put it back together, got it installed and all is well now. I guess one or a few of the balls were dislodged and ****ing everything up.
Now I need to figure out what to do about the stripped torque converter bolt. When I put this trans in I stripped on of the three 3/8" bolts holding the flex plate to the converter. My options are helicoil it back to 3/8 or tap it out to 7/16. I dont know if there is enough metal surounding the hole to helicoil it though. I really dont want to pull the transmission to fix it one way or the other though. One other idea I had was to get a piece of 3/8 B7 allthread (or even just use a portion of G8 bolt) and thread it in softlyand bottom it out in the hole, then tack-weld it in and put a nut on the other side. There is enough metal that the heat shouldnt fubar the TC too much, but it sounds hella ghetto. I am leaning that direction though.
i would use the piece of bolt and tack it in. Just what i would do
Okay, now that you have Creighton's opinion. . . . . do the opposite:flipoff2:.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
My opinion is good Rowdys opinion would be tick a zip tio in the hole and impact the bolt in place its like a nylock in the bolt hole
if you dont want to pull the converter, make sure the other bolts are properly torqued and forget about it. you wont be making it any better by kludging a fastener in there.
There are only 3 bolts total. Ditching one is unsettling. Is that SOP for working on helos?
no, we dont strip out fasteners. if we do, the part gets replaced or properly repaired. we damn sure dont weld in some grade zero all-thread and call it good.
i missed the part about "three 3/8" bolts" ...so, you're telling me that you have a 3 bolt converter behind a 496ci big block and you've been wheeling it with one stripped TC bolt and now you're worried about fixing it. remind me to recommend to the marine corps that you never become a maintenance officer.
The torque converter is from a 454 application, but I was suprised that it only came with 3 bolt bosses. I couldnt afford to buy any fancy aftermarket converter at the time so the generic parts store unit was installed. You do know that I have kludged together internals (clutches, bands, etc.) from THREE different transmissions to make my perfectly functional current one, right?
Thats fine, I dont want to do maintenance. I want to blow **** up :flipoff2:
What transmission is in it? Does it have a full lower dust shield or the ghey little window of the removeable bellhousing models?
Plain ol' TH400. It has a full dust shield. Havent seen this ghey little window version you speak of.
maybe its only on the 4L60E. I dont know what an 80 looks like. Never looked at it on my truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
this is what i have to deal with on the Jeep.
http://trickshiftperformance.com.au/...AUTO-600px.jpg
Ah, around 2003 GM switched to that bellhousing on the 4L60E and 4L80E. This is part of the reason I cant find any F'king 4L80E dust covers...
Couldn't you just get a new House brand conveter so that you can hopefully end your transmission problems or are they to much coin? Thanks for the kickass deal on the serp setup!
Welded the stud in last night, works perfect now. The other two bolts were loose, which wasnt helping anything. Loc-tite'd em and tightened em back up and now I'm back in buisness.
I'm MC-Hammer broke right now so buying any new **** isnt really an option.
:laughing:
Question for you engineering types. Since I dont know what normal driveshafts are made out of, do yall think the 1.25" OD male splined stock made out of 1117 cold rolled mild steel will handle front driveshaft duties on Pigpen? Here's the link to the vendor, the part number is 1187-20-2.
http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/st...ne_shafts.htm#
I'm trying to kludge together a long slip front shaft that isnt square tube and this is the only supplier of raw spline stock I have found. Thanks
i dont know much about materials, but have you tried to contact tom woods or high angle to wee what you can get the slip portion for?
R..Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Havent asked HAD about just the slip material but a shaft from him would be ~$495 + $100 for the 32 spline t-case flange. He has to get it from somewhere...
you can use the stock flange on the front output of the 205, if its stock spline, or get one from a 208 i think, what ever one i got from you to run 32 spline and it is much cheaper, all you have to do is swap the seal which is like $5
If I'm gonna shell out for a 1350 CV shaft I'm gonna put a 32 spline front output in while I'm at it. I already have a Ford 205 to rob the output from.
all i was saying is it wont cost 100 for the flange, it will be between 5 and 30 dollars to put the 208 flange on it
you can get the spline stock at Napa along with the coupler that you weld the driveshaft tube too. I am pretty sure that is the material that HAD uses
link or part numbers?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Sharpe I am sure you can get the splined stock at BVD. But they will probably want an arm and a leg.
most d-shaft shops only have short spline sections for normal driveshafts. its been a while, but the last time i looked for long spline shaft, it was hard to find.
I got a 12" section of splined stock from BVD in May 2009 to fix the twisted portion on my rear d-shaft. If I remember right it was about $100. Here is a pic of the twisted piece, the replacement one looks exactly the same. http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=406Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
im sorry your lover isnt renewing his dues.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
ya, we'll all miss you cox!:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
no but I could get it. Unfortunately it only comes in 3ft sections at $100 a ftQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I'm sure you never miss out on cox :flipoff2:
Just posting this link here so I can find it if I ever actually wheel again. H1 wheel brand new nuts and o-rings are available from JB Custom Fab.
http://www.jbfab.net/cgi-bin/miva?/M...tegory_Code=H1
I still have new orings in my stash if you need a few.
Parting out. Who wants what
Price on tires?
stop, dont do thisQuote:
Originally Posted by sharpe