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at least you've got a good attitude about it :flipoff2:
Don't forget that the "unbiased majority of POR" were the 10 webwheelers who flamed you before you deleted the thread.
but yes, chadwell's rig (soa, outboarded shackles, 44044s) is probably a good example of how tall you would end up if you copied him
Tate - You are neglecting the fact that this is a front axle and it would throw the steering out of whack unless he turns the inner knuckles. I'd say turn the knuckles to point the pinion towards the front output, then weld em back on and weld the perches flat.
Edited bc I goofed.
Its a waggy axle. Should have enough caster built in to work without turning knuckles. A good level and a protractor will work to set castor. An agle finder would be easier. I'd set it about 5* and look at the pinion angle and if it looks decent, its good. 6* is supposed to be about the standard, many people run less. I have no idea what mine is right now, but when I SOAed the stock front I set it at 5* and it drove good. I'll draw a picture.
this is gonna be goodQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
If pinion angle is unacceptable to you, you can turn castor to less. Probably get away with 2*.
nice drawing. i suddenly got the urge to hold my laptop very still and not shake it while i looked at it though. wierd.
Thanks for all the info guys. I cleaned the whole thing up today had a lot of grease and grime on it. Pulled the hubs and rotors off and the bearings looked like they were just recently replaced and everything looks great. Someone had robbed the drive flanges out of the hubs though so i dont really know what originally went in there like snap rings and such but fixin to buy some lockouts for it so that shouldnt be a problem. As for the castor i think im gonna set it up like it was in the waggy and go for 5* castor. Im not gonna mess with rotating the knuckles and stuff. I looked at the pinion angle as it would be stock and doesnt seem to be all that bad, i plan on getting a long travel high angle drive shaft made anyhow. Another thing that is botherin me is i want to make sure that everything is lined up under there when i start welding because it would make me sick if it pulled hard right or dog tracked down the highway. Im guessing the best way to prevent this is to measure from every angle possible and make sure both sides are the same? Thanks
Ok who do i need to contact about the 44044 springs that someone has? Are they new?
before you go with the 44044s, try the stock waggies. They'll ride damn near flat, have good flex, less memory....plus they're cheaper. I think stock waggies should be plenty....build a small drop hanger and run a 5-6" shackle....if it aint enough, get 44044s.
Also, measure measure measure....tack....measure measure measure...then weld. if you tack it up, sit there for 30 minutes and look at it and make sure every aspect is as you want it.
By this I hope you mean have someone local make you a square tubing drive shaft or just do it yourself. Don't fall to the marketing, there's nothing special about a high dollar driveshaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
If you are thinking about buying a High Angle Driveline then do a search and read about complaints that myself and Troy have had with High Angle shafts. It's all marketing based off the Pirate bulletin board. I don't know of anyone off of Pirate that gives two ****s about High Angle. You can get a shaft made for a lot cheaper by someone local and it'll suit your needs a whole lot better. It can be done on the cheap if you want it to be...
i'll make you a square shaft for 25+materials(less than 10 bux)
I've been saying this since the 90's :eek: Plenty of shops around the DFW area. Driveshaft King in Fort Worth is good. The one's in BCS I think are even overpriced. Their reasoning is: your **** is broke and it is a long walk to either DFW or Houston...****ers. A drive to houston or DFW would be a good investment.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Inland Driveline in Dallas does nice, cheap work. Most guys end up using Spicer parts, but Saginaw is just as good, and cheaper in many cases. Both can use the standard 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410 U-joints.
i saw a cool thread on pirate i think it was about using tractor PTO shafts for a front driveshaft. i think the thread was about square ones, so search for that. there was a guy on there saying it was cheap and easy, plus they have tons-o-travel.