Get the guy to meet Rowdy somewhere when he heads back home.
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Get the guy to meet Rowdy somewhere when he heads back home.
How far can I move the front axle forward (using the 2wd box) without having to move the gearbox. I will be running full hi steer with hydro assist.
i think i went 3 inches or so and could have gone 1-2 more i think, but atleast 3 inches
it depends on what kind of high steer, if you put the tie rod in front of the axle and the drag link behind you can move it alot, i think sharpe did that and moves like 8 inches or something like that
No typical tie rod and draglink in front of axle.
Mine's a jeep of course, but I could only move the axle forward maybe an inch before the steering would hit. This is the reason I always had the tie rod low.
there is a stock aplication box that is reverse steer to make up for that, don't remember what and now that previous post is looking kinda stupid but whatever
i think the stock box that is reverse rotation is one of the van boxes, but sharpe is running one and can chime in to verify
astro van box i believe.
Cool im gonna stick with the 2wd psc box I got from ed and get a set of the frame plates from off-road design to help out with the cracking issues.
The reversed box is from a fullsize van, not an astro. The astro van boxes are reverse as well but they mount inside the frame like a C/K series.
i got the frame repair kit, you should also look in to their brace, or atleast make your own, it will help a bunch
38's are to small 42" iroks are where it's at.
http://m553.photobucket.com/albumvie...2FDsbHZVoEg%3D
have you put the one tons in yet?
What is your wheelbase as it sits right now? When I get around to linking mine (if I can't build or find a tube chassis to throw the drivetrain in one day), I would like to end up pushing the front out and move the rear forward a bit so that I end up with equal length driveshafts.
No but I am collecting all the parts to swap everything in. I plan on wheeling it pretty much as is for the next 6 months or so since it is working fine right now. It seems I enjoy actually wheeling not towing a turd 7 hrs to break it right away and spending the weekend pissed. I am gonna swap stuff in slow and build it right the first time.
The guy I bought it from said 101" but I roughly measured it when I got it and it was closer to 98". Eventually I would like to be around 110" on the same sized frame as it is right now. Which consists of being chopped off 2" in front of the factory hangers and shortened like 23" out back. For reference the space from the back of the cab to the back bumper is 57".
Alright I temporarily fixed the clutch linkage that broke at gilmer.
So I kinda torn as what to do. My current clutch is on it's way out. I bought a late model sm 465 with 32 spline output and a complete hydraulic clutch setup that has been rebuilt. My current trans is the crappy 10 spline output with the figure 8 pattern attached to a fixed rear output 205. I also have a 32 spline slip yoke np208 that would bolt up to the late model 32 spline trans as well as another 27 spline 208 that can be used as parts.
My options seem to be:
1. Swap the late model bell housing and hydro setup onto the 10 spline trans and get a new clutch
pros- keep the strength of the 205 and fixed rear yoke.
Cons- 205's sucky gear ratio
2. Swap in late model 465 with 32 spline 208 and take spare t-case parts with me on trips.
Pros- will get me right at 100:1 crawl ratio, all internals of trans were replaced/rebuilt 6 months ago and have 300 miles on them.
Cons- Aluminium chain driven slip yoke case, have the pain in the ass of carry spare t-case parts.
Also I assume I can swap the hydro bell housing onto the the older non hydro trans is this true? I thought I saw something on tx4x4 saying that I can't do that but I can't seem to find the thread again or figure out why that would be true.
What brand of cluthes do you all like for trail rigs? The late model came with centerforce 2 but I haven't heard good things about them.
the thing with chevy hdro is they did different things so get everything with it and remember the year
from what i read when i was thinking about going chevy and hydro is that its not like alot of other chevy stuff where it is all the same. so u need to get the master, slave, bhousing from the same vehicle and remember what it is. i could be wrong and i would love for someone else to confirm or deny this.you can bolt a late bh on an early trans afaik and as long as you have the rest of the hydraulics that match the late bh then you are golden
Well that I have all the parts I need but unfortunately I don't know what yr model the stuff I have came out of.
Also about how many inches of lift does the front end 52 inch spring swap net? I realize there are variable like how far the front perch is moved and how many leaves are in your pack, I'm just looking for a ballpark figure.
a 52 swap will net about 4 inches lift
Sweet that's what I have now and didn't want to go much larger.
Anyone else have anymore info to share on the trans swap stuff?
What do you all think about using the 208?
Tx 4x4 link to hydro swap
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=30653
Edit-
So after doing a bunch of reading today I went out at measured the adapter that's on the back of the 32spl trans and found out it is not for a np208 it is the semi rare 465/205 round pattern adapter. Now I need to find a 465/208 adapter or just scrap that idea.
Picked up a 465/208 adapter today. I have decided to run the 208 and see what happens. I just couldn't resist a 25% gain towards a lower crawl ratio. I now have almost everything I need for the trans swap minus a new clutch and a np 208 shifter. Like a retard I left the one in the parts truck.
I also made a list of all parts needed to swap in the one tons. I forgot how expensive the one ton crap gets.
i have a 208 shifter
For a chevy? I don't think ford and chevy ones are the same.
when did fords come witha 208?
early to mid 80s
thanks
Well, the frick doubler was a pipe dream, the idea was awesome, but as most of us have learned being extremely cheap usually doesn't mean reliable or even functional. To keep going with the theme of not trying to ghetto rig the bastard I picked up a really sweet deal on a np 203/205 doubler with driveshafts.
Specs:
Doubler was built about 2-3 years ago with all of the top of the line parts.
np 203 built by Off-Road Design, 27 spline- I will need to swap to 32 spline input and redrill the front of the np 203 for the round pattern sm 465.
Off-Road Design Gen II doubler clocked with the np 205 being flat.
Np 205 Built by NorthWest Fab case has been fully gone through, as well as their billet parts kit installed. Case has been twin sticked with their new rails. NP 205 has High Angle Driveline 1350 rear CV flange installed on the rear output, with a 1350 front CV flange on the Front output.
Northwest Fab triple stick with cable shifters
Copperhead fab np 203/205 doubler truss, made by the original owner of Copperhead fab. Suppossedly this is the prototype for the kit they sell now. The only difference is this craddle was designed to do a flat belly, skid versus the version that the new owner sells now that has the funky center bushing.
Both drive shafts are High Angle Driveline 1350 CV shafts with all 1350 joints throughout. The front shaft has the long 10" long slip, and the rear is a 5" slip. Wheelbase in his blazer was around 108" which is very close to what my target wheelbase is. The only difference may be that he ran a 700R4 instead of the stick so the front may not work. I will most likely adjust my wheelbase accordingly so that I will not have to cut down or re-tube these shafts.
more pics
Pimpin'
Was that your target wheelbase, or are you adjusting that idea slightly based on not wanting to retube those driveshafts? :flipoff2:
looks hard to shift
just so you know that front output flange is stock, jess machines the flange on the driveshafts to make the 1350 cv's fit
also one of the shifter brackets looks bad