Actually the torque makes a huge noticeable difference.
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Not unless you like winding your **** out to 5k rpm
Now you're just talking out your ass. Forced induction applications give torque low in the RPM range, turbo's are no exception. See the graph below for the Ecoboost.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...boostchart.png
There's a lot of people talking out of their ass in this thread. Thanks for pointing it out.
Here's the one you need. This is on a chassis dyno, not an engine dyno. Where is the ecoboost torque at 2k rpms where you will more likely be cruising at?
http://blogs.cars.com/.a/6a00d83451b...01cf970c-800wi
Oh please keep telling me all about chassis dyno's, enlighten me oh enlightened one. Point is you said winding it out to 5K rpms, The ecoboost has a fairly flat torque curve starting with 90% of it's torque between 2500-3000 rpm's (depending on the dyno). It is at least 50 ft lbs at the wheels above the 5.0 at 3K rpms, that is very acceptable when mashing the skinny pedal. There is no "winding it out" imo.
The ecoboost is lots of fun in the explorer sport. The truck just feels like a regular v8 to me. I don't recall ever driving the 5.0 so I can't speak to that.
Who said anything about being enlightened? You posted a graph that means nothing in the real world. What the truck gets to the wheels is important. So I exaggerated a bit, so what. My point stands that at cruising rpm, the ecoboost doesn't make the torque that makes the difference between it and the 5.0 which means you're going to either give it more pedal than the 5.0 to do a small speed increase which means its either going to take longer to do the same thing or its going to downshift, and then upshift again once you let off. I dont know about you but i hate my truck downshifting on hills just to maintain speed.
Then a chassis dyno means nothing either.
From my experience ( several thousand miles in a 5.0 and a few test drives in a ecoboost )
The 5.0 down shifts all the time which makes me hate the 6 speed transmission.
The ecoboost can handle the passing lane without downshifting.
And that is the main reason I was leaning towards ecoboost.
This thread got gayer than all 3 tapes found on top of karl's vcr.
I don't think I got screwed on my trade. I traded in a 2013 Ford Raptor, and They gave me $1800 less than what I bought it for new. I only had it for 10 months and I thought that was a VERY fair amount of depreciation and kick in the shorts for changing my mind so quick on the vehicle. I was very pleased with how it kept it's value, and I ended up not having to pay any money at all for my new truck, win win for me.
I understand the point you are trying to make, but there is a single flaw in your posts and that is your reliance on what the vehicle puts to the wheels, or rather "chassis dyno's". All Dyno's read different, even dyno's of the same brand if they are calibrated differently. The graph you posted is a great comparison of the two trucks if they were run back to back on the same dyno (which I assume they were) with the same weather conditions. The chart you reference is a good comparison, but the ecoboost still makes 10% more torque, which is what will effect a "butt dyno".
Strange they did all that work and did not swap in Raptor seats or the 4wd selector
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...pscacfb542.jpg
I couldn't resist the turbo chargers...
I am going to check out an Explorer sport tonight. We might own an ecoboost later today as well.
It is 4wd but not for offroad reason. I really lucked out last time I did that. Learned my lesson. Kinda
How did you luck out Tate? You test drove a brand new jeep at K2 all weekend and totaled it. Lucky that it wasn't your insurance?
Yes. Dealership covered it when the dealership found out what my insurance company was going to let me keep it for. And I now own an explorer sport. Well my wife does I guess.
I didn't total it. It just had so much rock damage they chose to total it. I tried to buy it but they wouldn't meet me on price.
it had over a hundred... why does this keep coming up?
Because it is literally one of the dumbest things that has ever occurred in the history of this club. And that is saying a lot...
I planned on buying it. It just didn't work out that way. How is that dumb. If I ended up buying it no one would have said a word at how I wheeled it.
Not to beat a dead horse, but was there really enough damage to total it? I mean, the dealer should have been pissed and all, but I do not see why it gets "totaled". Were they essentially saying that a scratched axle tube/skid needed to be replaced? Was there body damage? I remember it being out there, but don't remember you taking it up stupid things. You probably should have just bought it. How did the convo go when you returned it?
nice truck Travis.
No real body damage. All 4 rims rock rash. Front and rear bumpers pretty bad. Sliders bad. All skid plates underneith. Paint had some pin striping. They quoted it 22k in parts alone to restore to new car status. I don't know how they came up with that number. I didn't see anything wrong with it at all.
I basically walked in and went straight to finance office. Spent some time negotiating and it didn't work out. 2 weeks later they called me and said the jeep was ****ed. I agreed to have my insurance take care of if after they got some quoted. My insurance offered buy back around 10k. I was all about that and let it slip to the dealer. They then said they were taking care of it without my insurance. Sticker on it was around 38k if I Remember correctly.
He has a finance guy. You have to be a high roller to get into the finance office.