Also if anybody has any plate, 2 or 1.75 inch tubing, receiver hitch tube or weld on shackle mounts I would be interested in buying it.
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Also if anybody has any plate, 2 or 1.75 inch tubing, receiver hitch tube or weld on shackle mounts I would be interested in buying it.
From what I've been reading dodges are not plug and play, most seem to get around the issue by adding a resistor (I think 50 ohm) in addition to the supplied ballast, I just figured that is what the error corrector was. I know V=IR, but why is there a voltage issue? What volts do HID run on and how do people over come the issue?
HID bulbs require roughly 20k volts; Yes, 20,000 volts, to ignite. The sudden spike in voltage would literally fry your electrical system, so they introduce the ballast to ignite the bulb and help regulate the voltage.
When I had put HID bulbs on the H3, it was a pretty easy plug and play job. I put the same kit on my 08 Dodge 1500 (they're both 9008/H13 bulb size) and there were no sensors thrown. From what I've heard through other people running them, the only cars that had problems running without the "check error fix" were Suzuki, Nissan, etc.
Question was why is there a voltage issue if the supplied ballast is used? I realize that cummins owner might not be the smartest people but a quick search on CF will reveal hundreds of "why don't my HIDs work" threads. Either way I'll be ordering the kit this week
I went ahead an ordered the HID kit for the hella's, but now have a fear of my truck exploding... Check out the waring
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/bow.png
Diesel Rice :flipoff2::flipoff2:
Also went to Chops for the aliment, all went smoothly took about an hour and seems to be a decent shop.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/better-1.jpg
:flipoff2::flipoff2:
:flipoff2:
A little redemption for Evan:
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...o/P4180099.jpg
It should be noted that both trucks are flexed all the way out in the picture.
Back to a somewhat serious discussion
I'm on the fence as to what tire option to run, 35inch Grabbers or 37 inch Toyos.
The grabbers:
Higher load ratting
better ride
Quieter
The Toyo's:
Probably need to go to 4.10's and add a steering box brace
louder
But all the advantages of bigger Tires
look cooler -pimp-
Looks like new 4.10's (or 4.56's), install kits and a true track for the front would run around $1500, however I'm undecided if it is worth dumping any money into these axles.
yes, just get the gears, your truck looked dumb with the 35s on it
37s all the way
i agree that the 35s on the new wheels would look ok, but you just lifted your truck and it looks awesome with the 37s on it... and you need 4.10s anyway, just sack up and ****in do it man :gigem:
Edit: oh and you already chopped sheet metal off of your truck for 37s, so may as well run them
Edit:and your GIRLFRIEND made fun of your truck on 35s, nuff said
Your cummins a dud?
Don't do air bags. Makes for a really ****ty ride if you're using them for lift.
Single wheels can't really hold enough to need bags. Just load the trailer right. Never supposed to run bags empty, so they still make a stiff 3/4 ton suspension stiffer.
Going from 35's to 37's seems to have a lot bigger effect than 33's to 35's. I guess a set of gauges is in order but with the rpm's lower from the 37s I can only imagine a lot hotter egt's and trans temp. All this is kind of speculative now though and honestly the 35's I have are just a lot street tire.
Carli makes a pretty nice air-bag setup for the long travel trucks, and my plan was to try to duplicate that, but it is not a priority.
Remember your motor and trans are the same as what the hot shots use to tow heavy everyday, it'll still just be idling along in your truck. Thing that will kill your motor is when an injector goes bad. Any hint of it not idling perfect take it straight to a shop.
I had 35" and then 37" DC FCII's on my F250. Rode very well with either. Would look into those in 37s. They actually clean out well in mud though they do not look it, and grip a wet road like a stock tire, and last long. My 35s made it over 50K miles. Bad news is about $400 each new for 37s.
I'll be ordering some fuel and oil filters next week if your interested in getting some let me know.
Baldwin PF7977 fuel filter $12-13
FLEETGUARD LF16035 - STRATAPORE OIL FILTER $13-14
No, still got a few in stock. Bought a bunch of wix on sale a few years back.
More ideas
Credit to Baja Mike
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM8.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM7.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM6.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM5.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM4.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...ncoJo/DM11.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...ncoJo/DM10.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...oncoJo/DM9.jpg
Update
I put about 900 miles on my truck this weekend with the 37's
Two hand calculated mileage reports of 16.5 and 16.1, looks like about 18-ish on flat highway and about 10 in the cities. This was with the smarty jr on the 3rd power level (~100hp).
The heim on the KORE track bar started making some noise so it needs to be replaced. I am not impressed with this track bar at all as it seems to be flexing with the 37s so I have 3 options:
-replace hieim joint
-bend a new one out of heavier tube
-buy a new one from thuren
* I noticed the flexing when it was parked and someone else was turning the wheel
Overall i am very happy with the lift and ride, I'll be swapping the 35's onto the new wheels until the next stage in the build is complete.
Next steps:
-Gauges (going on soon)
-bumpers
-brake upgrade (probably just EBC pads, factory stuff is getting old anyway)
-track bar gets fixed
-rear gets bumps and straps
I'm going to go with a Carli track bar from http://www.rockandrolloffroad.com/. Seems like a pretty decent shop, absolutely great service and the dude I was talking to had actually been wheeling with the original TAMOR group 10+ years ago. He seemed really interested in helping us out with future events and maybe setting up a TAMOR account or some group buys.
Any of the Dallas people that can should stop by and put in a good word for the club.
They are located at:
6920 N. E. Loop 820
North Richland Hills, TX 76180
Phone: 877.765.8774
817.485.2600