I was running 60 but I let a little out to see if it would make a difference.
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I was running 60 but I let a little out to see if it would make a difference.
I run 35-40 and don't notice any decrease in mpg. Being that you have 37s I think you could air down more.
My Dooley rides like a Cadillac, but then it is Chevy so it shouldn't even be in the same conversation as a t/furd...
:flipoff2:
Yup, my won ton Duramax rides like my living room couch, it is fantastic. Sucks off road, but it's like a train on tracks on the road. I also have Michelin's street tires on it. I'll ask the guy at Discount what pressure is in the tires as it is against my religion to check or care about tire pressure.
*Insert some diesel doucher comment about IFS and broken tie rods as soon as you go off road and my truck has been through more than you would ever put your truck through and having no issue.*
Yeah my truck is old and the suspension is kind of tired. I've already taken care of most other worn out parts, just need to get the suspension where I want it.
try 40 psi on the tires, thats what mine are at unless I am loaded then i bump it to 50.
You can have my super long ass stock f-250 springs that i pulled out of my 250 for your truck, will have to do some fab I am sure but longer, lighter springs ride better.
Are they up north?
You must have been busy since you bought this truck in March of this year... :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Come on Karl, I said diesel doucher, not true.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I ended with a :flipoff2: Everyone knows the flip off is meant in jest, if I was pissed I would have just called you Rowdy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Hey Karl, since your truck rides so much nicer than mine, you think I could borrow it? :flipoff2:
yea they are at the farm but i can bring them down after winter break
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...S/070e1bde.gif
Put some new injectors in a few weeks ago, truck has been running awesome and then this. I guess I'll find out how good the Oliver Brothers warranty is on my transmission.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...312443_HDR.jpg
Damn it
I had just pulled out onto the access road, probably about 30% throttle just cruising and then it went boom, and sounded like someone fired a 12 gauge under my truck. No clue what's broken inside, but I bet it's a drum. No leaking fluids, and no movement of forward or reverse. I've been easy on the truck too and haven't even taken it out of the economy tune yet.
Ask tommy, the red truck sounded like that when we were almost back to Vegas that year! I really thought there was going to be half an Allison spread out over the highway when we got out to look! Luckily it was just going into limp mode under some pretty good load and it shuddered the entire truck when it unloaded. Haha
Once it cooled down a bit though it cranked up and drove just fine though.
No such luck here, but at least Oliver Brothers is taking care of me so far. They're sending a wrecker to pick it up and take it to a shop here in SA to look at it.
Cool beans.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7..._115536622.jpg
The one on the left is mine. Should be all back together tuesday.
I really need to get new lockout hubs to try and fix my sagging axle shaft problem as its getting worse. Are warn premiums worth double the cost of mile markers? It seems that those two are the most common.
the lockout doesn't do anything to support the inside of the stub shaft. I really think you should look closer at the unit bearing. There should a bearing right next to the ears on the shaft that supports the shaft.
I'm warranting the unit bearing too. Lockouts have been on the list for a while. One of the factory lockouts blew apart and I put a old beat up 90s lock out on it
Warn premiums are junk in my opinion. Same internals as the standard warn hubs.
I would go with the Yukon Hardcore dana 60 hubs. Low profile and a copy of the badass original spjcer hubs.
Didn't have anyone to take me and warranty my unit bearing so I put on an old one I had laying around. The stub shaft is ****ed, the spindle bearing is gone and the lock out is in pieces. My question is can I have a shop weld up the big groove on my stub shaft then machine it back to spec or will the heat **** it up and make it weak? I'm going to go back with a new unit bearing, new seals, new lock outs and either a fixed shaft or a new one.
for welding labor and machine time it would probably by cheaper easier to just buy a spare one. While you are at it buy 2 35 spline stubs. you are buying new lock out anyways.
I have a d50, my inners will break before my outers ever do but I will see how much they cost. From what I have seen so far one new outer is 200.
Welding will weaken it, it will remove the heat treatment from the area. Look up USA standard for stub shafts, same **** as Yukon, just no warranty and cheaper.
Ordered a new spicer stub shaft. The 35 splines have to have the unit bearing bored out for them to fit so I stayed with 30 spline, especially since it's a D50. I'll warranty the unit bearing and hopefully have it ready to put back together when I get my stub shaft in the mail.
Speaking of welding axle shafts together, I saw where they were going to weld the inner part of a 9" shaft to some random outer so they could run a 9" axle with said random outer mounts to keep it 'more factory' on a restoration project. They planned to just chop both axles in half and stick them together. Thought this would be fun to watch do smoky burnout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Who is they? Gas monkey?
It might have been. I was flipping channels and just caught a few minutes of it. Maybe they were joking, but sure seemed like they were going to give it the good old college try!Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_hodnett
it was on americarna, they made a full float(safety hubs to racers) 9" using some goofy old school snouts that were original to the racecar. either way I would bet ray everham(the guy leading the project) has a good idea of what will hold up and what won't
I saw that too, and I don't give a **** if he was Smokey Yunick doing that, it looked sketchy as ****! You're telling me with all the resources at a multi-billion dollar race company like Hendrick, they couldn't have had new shafts made the way they needed them?
Glad it wasn't just me that saw it.
its a parade float!!!! on widened ttb front ends its pretty common to sleeve the passenger side double jointed shaft and lengthen. im not saying it's the right thing to do but.... im sure budget requirements made his choice for him besides pretty sure at this point a broken shaft on that car is not going to cost them a race
I need help deciding on front leafs for my truck . I currently have stock suspension except for an adjustable track bar, a leveling kit, procomp adjustable shocks (going to get new shocks after my leafs are sorted) and run my toyos at 40 psi. My goal is to make the whole truck ride better (much softer) and get 4 inches of total lift up front (2 more than I have now). I don't want to do an 05 axle swap. What are my options for leafs?
I saw the Superlift Superride leafs on Summit, and they look promising, with a bunch of thin leafs instead of 2 or 3 real thick springs. I'm looking for anyone who has experience with either superlift or lift leaf springs up front in general.
Here's a link to the springs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...350-super-duty
my pops had those on his excursion. still a lift spring=ok ride, not quit stock though. what does your leveling kit consist of? front hangers?
I had a fabtech 6" on one of mine and when i got the springs they had been drop shipped straight from deaver, so I would just call them as they can build any height u want. they had 8 thin leaves,military rap and bolt on spring clamps.
mini pack