I have disconnects sitting in my shop ill let go for cheap
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I have disconnects sitting in my shop ill let go for cheap
I wouldn't hesitate to drive it on the street with 37's.
This is what I would do
-superduty axles
-Make some radius arms for the front
-4 link rear with artec truss
-comp cut with rear body guards
-105 ish wheelbase
-Detroits rear, Arb Front and 4.56's
-Trailready or raceline beadlocks with 37" toyo's or Maxis trepadors
-Fox 2" coilovers, You can find them used all day long on race-dezert
-Air bumps
-Most competitive rigs don't have a ton of up travel so that they can keep it low. Evan's jeep only has like 3 or 4 inches of up travel and gains all of his flex in droop. That's why a rear truss won't get in the way too much. Might have to re- locate the fuel tank.
-Bling driveshafts
-Flat belly skid, I'm sure there's some beat off jeep uhmw skid
-Whatever gay ass t-case tate has
-cage
-tunes
-fuzzy dice
-keep the a/c
-winch
-wheel said piss
But that's me and I like to make things hard on myself.
Don't forget the Wicked Wheel!
Attachment 19485
Jk turn signals. Pulled the fenders back off to repaint black
I got some 35x12.5x15 KM2s. The front looks great and it only seems to rub on the sway bar. The rear armor panels are in SA and I am going to bring them back with me next week and get them on. Problem in the rear is that the tire is very close on the front side to the tub. For my trip in a few weeks, I probably need to just do a spacer lift and mayeb some new shoks. RE spacers and new shocks run $240 so not too bad.
I still need to clean up the hood and paint it.
I have the old 33s for sale if anyone needs a spare. I think Taylor has dibs on two of them.
That new windshield washer RestoMod ( :flipoff3: Fred ) is Rice-A-Roni!!!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/9epadu2e.jpg
Got the rears on last week and 2" spacers today
The front axle naturally moves over to the drivers side slightly. Is this easily fixed by drilling g new hole in lower bracket?
I'd go adjustable track bar. If you go higher or lower later you can adjust it in or out instead of welding up holes and trying to drill them out straight every time.
Drilling works but tends to oval out over time and require welding. I would go adjustable too
I would agree that an adjustable would be better
Is the problem that you are more than likely not going to drill a perfect hole through both pieces, thus it will wallow out?
That and if you start drilling holes in different places then your drag link and track bar won't be parallel and will cause bump steer. I'm assuming this thing still gets some street time so that would be no bueno.
This and your drill bit is still in the first hole while cutting the second one. The bits I use will cut the hole bigger if you move the slightest.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
and it is a stress point in the front suspension. stock and factory ones oval out leading to death wobble and it is sometimes hard to determine where it is coming from
any updates?
Not really.
I have been driving it alot.
Took all soft top bracketry off.
Got the PSC sliders on.
Fixed some minor stuff from Carnage Canyon.
Traded for some half doors which I really like. They are also white, so its mismatched black white everywhere, kinda looks goofy.
Also got the passenger side seat bracket move-back kit on yesterday.
About to fix factory spare tire mount that cracked in hopes to make it hold the 35 for a few more trips.
Put some fresh bump bump speakers in it today. About to load up the toolbox in prep for Shiloh.
Where did you end up getting your fenders from?
I like the fenders he chose, they look good. This jeep looks like a cop car almost with the black and white body panels.
Poison spyder
I think I have a bestop tire carrier for a TJ that I will let go for cheap if you are interested
It bolts through the body to the roll cage on the top and the body mount on the bottom.
Not ready just yet, but want to be on the look out. I have not searched for axles in close to 10 years. So many new options out there.
Width.
After wheeling it some, I really have no issue with the track width. It is nice fitting easily through trees. Would not want to go fullsize. From brief searching, looks like stock TJ is about 60" and a d60 is around 70". Would splitting that be reasonable?
Just for reference, what are the off the shelf options? Currie, G2, Dynatrac? Could put together a Spyder9?
Should I just be on the look out for a kp60? 10.25 for the rear to be different? My concern with narrowing an axle down is the pita of ordering a new shaft and not having readily availible spares.
My dumb plan right now would be to keep it close to same height, still run good 35s, tummy tuck, long-arms, keep it fairly simple
Out of curiosity, what does a TJ Rubicon front 44 go for used? Still have the idea of building 44s and keeping it on 35s.
Waggy 44 and 9 inch, Locked rear, auburn limited slip front, 37s keep it light weight.
Building from a custom housing gets real expensive real quick because you have to buy every piece and then you have to put it all together. You'd be time and money ahead to put axles in with chromos and disk brakes in the rear.
I'd just buy a super 30 kit and super 44 kit with whatever locker you plan on running.
The only real argument against the super XX stuff is if you did manage to break something won't be able to find replacements from the Slims of the world, but it is pretty relaxing to park it, drink, then order replacement parts on Monday. Its not like you are going to find replacement rubicon shafts out in the wild anyway.
Lynda's front is 64" it's a little too narrow, tires rub the frame. I built the buggy to 65 or 66 I think.
My front is 63.5WMS and the rear is 62" WMS. If I had to do it again I would go an inch or two wider. Maybe 66"WMS in front and 64.5"WMS in rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
If you're gonna keep it on 33"s then I agree with Flem. Polish those turds and be done with them. Otherwise I would build ruffstuff 609s front and rear and dump the coin into what matters. Then never worry about them again. (Sparlings d-44 and 9" suggestion is not bad either)
Scott,
Is that a yj frame? Aren't they a bit wider then a CJ? I don't have any frame clearance problems on mine.
yes - YJ frame
and a tj frame is even wider than yalls, especially in the back. id say at least 2 inches wider per side. set it up with a neutral wheel and then u can adjust it easier with a different backspacing if u dont like.
The PSC rear armor I have is of course nice and flat on the inside but the body of the jeep is no longer perfectly straight. It has a few low spots which allow mud and water to be trapped. I am going to pull them off and work those areas a little more but what else can I do to seal it off?
Black caulking from Home Dept? Not sure how much body /armor would move.
Weld to body.
3m Seam sealer
weld it.
The Jeep did great at Clayton. I put a hole through the oil pan on Walk in the Park and bent the exhaust on Green Mamba. All in all, pretty damn good.
Pretty overwhelming options to go from here. Longarms with coils? Stay low and on short arms? Stretch? **** is very expensive
The wheelbase really did not bother me, other than the rear departure angle. Height was also decent, though the stock skid is very low. 30/44 held up fine. Still thinking if I found a bolt in Rubicon 44 that was not absurdly priced, I would do it.
Tummy tuck skids , maybe a real 2-3" spring, better shocks, adjustable short arms, lockers and shafts. This option is very minimal fab, less down time, more wheeling time.
One other thing I need to do is research better alternators. BDR said there is a 120 amp Ultima at Oriellys. The one on there now does not like winching. Might also have an Optima slowly dying.
It says the 23 spline input is for a manual trans only. Isn't yours an auto?
Sounds reasonably priced to me.
how used it is? They have very little fluid space in them and will burn up bearings easily. I toasted mine. I am going to rebuild it and stick it in Jason's jeep. I wouldn't spend that much myself unless it was pretty much brand new. A used Atlas would be way way better. I would imagine you end up with an atlas in the long run anyhow. Can't do a front dig with a teralow case either.
I think it depends on the input shaft length. Teraflex only calling them long(manual) or short(auto). Need To research more.
Looks like stock Rubicon cases have 4:1 and fixed yoke for around same price
Are used Atlass that common? I don't want to sit around waiting
A couple atlas's a week pop up on pirate. The problem is finding the correct side drop, input shaft and the ratio you want. They are generally in the 1800 to 2500 range.
Atlases are for the weak.
Yeah, that's why I sold you my doubler and bought an atlas.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
That was to sabotage tommy. Like selling blankets to the Indians.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Think I'm going to look for a rubicon case for around $1k. No doubt an Atlas is nice, but I'd spend 3 times as much for a new one. I could buy another Honda fourtrax with extra 2k.