Jeep Mods. Round 2.

He didn't seem to really care, and its only the 4th motor. I think he thinks I won't get all that wire/computer stuff to work.

I put some more peices on it and cut up the harness today, lots o wires removed. Hope I got it all right. Fuel lines are hooked up but no pump yet, distributer modified and installed, some sensors installed, motor mounts done.

Anybody know if the air cleaner housing from a carbed SBC will fit the TB on a TBI?

Useful information you may never need to know: An O2 sensor screws into a d44 ball joint nut, and the ERG banjo fittings on a SBAMC are 9/16" fine thread.

nice work on the o2 sensor bungs. i paid $8 for mine. need a fuel pump?

Allready got a fuel pump, just gotta install and wire it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eight

He didn't seem to really care, and its only the 4th motor. I think he thinks I won't get all that wire/computer stuff to work.

I put some more peices on it and cut up the harness today, lots o wires removed. Hope I got it all right. Fuel lines are hooked up but no pump yet, distributer modified and installed, some sensors installed, motor mounts done.

Anybody know if the air cleaner housing from a carbed SBC will fit the TB on a TBI?

Useful information you may never need to know: An O2 sensor screws into a d44 ball joint nut, and the ERG banjo fittings on a SBAMC are 9/16" fine thread.

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i have an air cleaner housing for the throttle body, you can have it.... I will leave it at the house and you can get it when you bring the minibike..or I can stop my your house...

i tried your little o2 bung trick today. yes, while it does screw in, as i suspected, since the sensor is metric the d44 nut is too big. if i were you i wouldnt torque it too much or it'll strip the threads.

Its torqued good. Yes it was loose. I suspect the copper gasket will still stop leaks.

I'll take that offer Jordan.

Well, it shoul work, but don't. Got no spark or fuel. Fuel pump works and injectors fire if I jump them. All the "KEY ON" voltages at the computer are correct. I tried changing the wires from the distributer around, checked all the grounds, tried it with the neutral saftey switch grounded and ungrounded.

I've got the orange battery wire hooked to constant power, the pink/black ignition wire to switched power, and the purple crank signal wire hooked to the crank wire on the starter solenoid.

I think the problem's probably got something to do with the distributer. I am supposed to ground the black wire from it, and hook the other two to the ignition module?

Got any idea what might be the problem?

http://www.justinternationals.org/Bi...ead.php?t=1291

we had the same problem w/ a 304 i was helping work on up here. i think we did end up grounding the black wire and it worked.

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Originally Posted by BigRedFord04

we had the same problem w/ a 304 i was helping work on up here. i think we did end up grounding the black wire and it worked.

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then it was a coincidence. There is nothing in the distributor to ground.

The duraspark ICM doesn't ground through the case since ford likes to mount them on plastic inner fenders. Instead it has a 3rd wire in the pickup plug and wires the ground into the distributor housing. if you chop that wire short and just ground the black wire coming off the duraspark ICM then that 3rd wire on the distributor pigtail is officially worthless. Since the HEI ICM grounds through the screw holes and you need a heat sink that is likely to be bolted to something metal there is no need to run that wire.

It runs now. Gota dam oil leak on the back of the valve cover that I mounted alot of **** to. Now I've got to put the electric fans on so I can drive it. I'll fix the oil leak in CS. Hopefully build exhausts tomorrow, may start today, but there's a Kevin Fowler concert in Kocuisko tonight, and I'm likely to get drunk.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robertf03

you need a heat sink that is likely to be bolted to something metal

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hmm, heat sink, guess I should make one.

Got about not much done today. Fans are on. I hooked an unfused relay power wire and ground wire to the two connected terminals on the relay, made smoke. Then me and Kurt built him a spare tire carrier.

Just got to drive it, dam fast, hesitates.

ill race ya...

Though you may have more power I've got less weight. After I get the custom chip, we'll think about it.

Whoohoooo it runs like its supposed to!!!! Turns out if you hook the distributer vacuum line to a 1/4" bolt instead of the distrubuter, it works better.

how is the idle? and did you ever figure out what size the injectors are?

The idle is still kinda odd. Most of the time it idles too high (~1000), and sometimes it idles right, and sometimes it don't idle. I think 700 rpm would be a good idle speed. I'm thinkin the CTS might be the cause, I'll change that out today. And I guess that stuff about AMC motors and GM knock sensors not liking eachother wasn't true. Only other thing it does is sometimes at light throttle it just cuts out for half a second, but I'll worry about that if its still there after the chip and I fix the TPS connector.

I'll go get those injector numbers when I'm done with breakfast.

The overall condition of jeep now is: Runs, with questionable highway driveability.

Started fixing misc body damages.
Got new 4 core radiator now. Makes jeep motor stay cool.
Also found a vacuum leak between the adapter and manifold, fixed it. Runs about the same.
Got 4x4 working again. Put a drive flange on one side, and made a fancy new hub dial thing on the other. Remove a 1/2" bolt, and it locks. Screw the 1/2" bolt back in, and it unlocks. I'd take a picture, but I'm not seeming to find my camera. Found the passenger side u-joint is dead. Somebody find me a bigger axle dammit.

So, what's the suspension joint to get now? RE, Currie, or maybe something new and cool I haven't heard about yet?

grader ball

Blue torch has "rock bushings" and 1 1/4" heims. Polyperformance has uniballs and flexxx joints.

Also


--AOR Orbit Eye Joint
--Price $69.95
--Flex Degree 38*
--Size 2.5 inch
--Width- 3 3/4inch
--Ball Joint "precision-machined, cold-rolled steel ball"
--Cartirdge/Race "molybdenum-based nylon socket"
-- No Zirk fitting
--Uses, Leaf springs
--Issues, ??
Molybdenum Propertise

--AllPro Johnny Joint
--Price $38. each
--Flex Degree 30*
--Size O.D. 2.5 inch
--Width- ??
--Gets there Joints from Currie,
BUT they drill the ball out to except a 5/8 shackle Bolt with Zirk fittg thus Lubricating the bolt inside the ball joint to not rust.
--Plus they Cross Drill the Ball to allow grease to Enter the ball joint.
--Use a C-clip on One end to hold joint together.
--Cartridge/race joint material still unknown
--BAll Joint material , UNKNOWN
--sells about 50 a month
- reports no failues with joint, search Board for feedback
--NEED A PRESS TO assemble
--USes, Leaf Shackle Pivot
--Issues/complaints: Difficult to install or rebuild NOT a SCREW Cap

X-Joint "Rod End
--Price--> $34.95 each
--Flex degrees ??*
--Size--> 2 5/8
--Width- ??
--Nickel Plated Ball stress proof ball
--DOM shell with tapped hole for zerk
--Cartidge/races-->Oil Injected Nylon Races (Minimal Wear)
--Poly cup with integrated grease passage, zerk fitting.
--9/16" Bore
--.188 Wall Dom Outer tube
--2 5/8" Wide at bolt bore flanges.
--Zinc Plated threaded retainer, washer and snap ring
--Stainless Steel Set Screw
--Uses: Control arm,
--Issues: ?? Not a SCREW Cap

Rubicon Express joint
originally designed to replace the heim joints
--Price $32. 2inch Flex 22* degrees -for track bar upper control arm
--Price $39. 2 5/8 inch 18* degrees - for Lower control arm
--Ball joint polished chrome ball, no specs Oval/Egg shape not true sphere
--Uses screw cap and C-clip
--Cartridge/Race UHMW nylon
--Tube Zerk fitting
--requires tool to tighten
--Uses: Control arms, track bars, Jeeps
--Issues: ?? Buy tightening tool $17.


--Currie Joint Same as Allpro
--Price $
--Flex Degrees 30*
--size 2 5/8 inch
--Uses screw in caps to hold joint together
--Cartridge/race "high88" urethane,like ploy bushings
--Ball Joint, 4340 Chromoly
--requires tool to fasten
--Uses: Rod end, Control arms, Jeeps

Edit add From "TRD":
Flexxx Joint
-$39.95
-2 5/8" Mounting Width
-9/16" Bolt
-Flex degrees 22.5*
-Wear Resistant
-Self Lubricating
-Greasable (to keep dirt out)
-Nilatron Races
-Hard Chrome Plated Ball
-Fully Rebuildable
Nilatron Propertise

I think AOR for their races and Flexxx Joint to be the best according to Specs

EDIT ADD : INformation THANKS goes to ravencr1
also found at http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301595

seems like it's personal preference or for different applications,their all pretty close to the same in design and quality from what I've seen, just not the same in difficulty of assembly.

I think I like the Allpro ones. About the same price as all the others, greasable and lots of misalignment. It's gonna be a real triangulated 3 link (with panhard) and bushings on one end so the joint in the upper link will need lots of misalignment, almost thinking of putting joints in both ends on that link. I think St. John built a simular suspension, but I haven't looked at the pics yet. Now that I have interweb I'll have to take a lookie.

I cut most of the old front suspension off last night, should have the F-150 springs on by end of today. I'm gonna do some grinding on the axle housing and inboard the springs 1" per side from where they are now which is 2" outboarded from stock location but the spring will be 0.5" wider so the center will really only be 0.75" in from where it is now or still outboarded 1.25" from stock but the stock springs were 2" so the inside of these springs will be 0.75" out from where the inside of the stock springs were so a normal shackle mounted through the top of the frame with a small spacer on the inside of the spring end will work instead of the slider box I was thinking of. Tu comprende?

ryan, douche your box.

OK its douched.

And I made a chadnutz amount of progress on jeep today. I'd forgotten the fun of building backwardzly-crooked stuff in order to make a crooked jeep drive straight, and now building stuff straight off the crooked stuff which will make it drive crooked untill I build the rear suspension which will make it drive good and straight like a good vehicle that hadn't fell off a cliff should.

Suspension is done. Both center pins were broken but that's kind of normal. But I don't remember the ubolts ever getting loose and they were all bent. So now I get to buy new bigger ones. Front's sitting about 1" higher than the back now, or 2.25" higher than it was, we'll see how it is in a month or so and maybe remove a leaf. The front spring eyes are now about 5" closer to the frame than before. And the shackles are only 1/2" lower than the spring hangers were.

by new suspension, i thought you were gonna do something cool.

Cool stuff's for the ass end. The front was in more need of replacing.

Here's the front suspension pictures. Much more clearance than before. It now sits about 1" higher than it used to, plus whatever the tires added.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...uspension3.jpg
Notice the custom fender enlargening, and the spot where the old spring hanger was, no I haven't ground it smooth yet, but I've thought about it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...uspension5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...uspension4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...uspension2.jpg

New toys.
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....es/PORCCJJ.jpg

those are nice, what brand are they?

what are they?... am i dumb

Summit Machine.

They are joints, for welding pipe to.

they look like RE

orbit eyes.

http://www.aor4x4.com/orbit-eyepoly-eye.htm

can you weld to those? i figured they were oil impregnated or nylon and they wouldnt go well with heat.

They are all the same design

4 links and a panhard? wait, that is two too many, 6 link? :gigem:

damn those are cool... how much can i get a set for

you going to do one of those nifty 6-links? :flipoff2: