did y'all buy complete gauge sets? I'm missing the necessity of 10,000 RPM Tachs and 120 MPH Speedos...I've been looking @ Tachs for my truck (AutoMeter also) and will probably end up going w/ a 6,000 or 8,000 RPM.
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did y'all buy complete gauge sets? I'm missing the necessity of 10,000 RPM Tachs and 120 MPH Speedos...I've been looking @ Tachs for my truck (AutoMeter also) and will probably end up going w/ a 6,000 or 8,000 RPM.
As for the meters, the choices are limited on the tachs in the ultra lite series.(small or big)
As for the progress - I WORK ALONE with nobody to talk to and nobody to bother me (my phone is the only thing that disturbs my work and slows my progress). I knock one item out and move right on to the next - mounted the hydro ram last night.
pure dedication... (must get done for tweaking before spring break)
As for the switches, I am going to use the factory Toyota switches on the column I have. This includes the headlights, turn signals, and wipers. I bought a starter switch and will mount that on the dash.
sent my Birfields off monday to be treated, am trying to get custom inner shafts made - this is not looking too good, and found someone to build me an inexpensive custom aluminum fuel cell for rockcrawling - will order next week after I get paid
Still living paycheck to paycheck Scott? :flipoff2:
Hell, at least he is having fun spending his money.:DQuote:
Originally posted by Chadnutz
Still living paycheck to paycheck Scott? :flipoff2:
when you spend $1000 extra pre pay check - yes - I am waiting for the next one to come in...
This ****t get's expensive...
Oh yeah, I forgot that the Toy column has all of that. It sure was convenient (for Mark) to be able to just plug in the GM column. Let me know how yours works out.
Send details on the tank. It looks like I will need a between the rails one in the rear now. I need to get something ordered. ~dso
dash done less glove box
driver side foot well finally done - I know why I put it off now.
more pics are up of dash work and sheet metal work on footwells.
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...lbum31&page=15
Wow Scott that look great, experiance does make a difference. I am sure it would not look that good if I did it, tool or not. Keep up the good work.:D
wow scott. that is really fawkin cool. congratulations. i hope someday to have something i can put on the trail next to that.
more progress...
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...um.php?page=17
fuel cell in
front axle back together
rocker panels done less some extra bracing
Always nice when the grinder skips off and hits you in the shirt. Mine bounced off my arm before binding up in my shirt. Left a sweet scar:cool:
BTW, linky no worky
so is the metal you put on the rockers sheet metal or plate? Seems like it would get destroyed if it is sheet metal, when your sliding over rocks. are you going to mount some rock slider below them?
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../afv.sized.jpg
it's 1/8" aluminum. I plan on sliding on the outskits where the tubing is. It will get bent a little between the braces if I land on the peak of a rock but i am not worried about it, there is plenty of support on the back side.
I am also going to bend the edges up with a hammer so they don't catch on anything.
1/8" is plenty thick for aluminum...if it was steel I'd say go thinner, it'll be impossible to tear it up over the long run... especially with as many braces as your ran on the back.
lookin' good scott...i really like the fuel cell and the LEDs :D
a few more pics up of the floor and front shock hoops
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...um.php?page=19
Nice work! are you going to make a cross bar connecting the two hoops over the engine? Maybe with it removeable so access is still easy when you have to pull the little bastard and rebuild it for the 8th time?
I thought about it but the cross bar would screw up axcss to the oil fill cap and the distributer so I just added some bracing going to the motor mounts.Quote:
Originally posted by rjlynn67
Nice work! are you going to make a cross bar connecting the two hoops over the engine? Maybe with it removeable so access is still easy when you have to pull the little bastard and rebuild it for the 8th time?
I only rebuilt it three times, it would only be four:flipoff2:
it's starting to look REALLY good scott... it's amazing how much work we can get done when there's money around huh?
what money? Steel and aluminum is cheap - it's my time and labor that is hard to come by...
A Men to that Brother! I haven't even toched the new XJ yet! Although the lift we want has been determined, just waiting to buy.
I call BS... you've been spending some money on that thing, and aluminum ain't that cheap unless you're buying scrap...I distinctly remember you bitching about how much money you had spent on just metal.
Besides i see you have made plenty of time to work on it lately... just as I have been makin plenty of time to fiddle with my pile. Nights and weekends allow for a lot of work. Having the shop to work in helps even more.
Doug
spent $120 on a sheet of aluminum... relatively cheep. SSS steel knows me pretty well though
:)
I redid the rear exo-cage bars and made them removable - like the body panels.
Dang, do you grow that stuff in a lab? DavidO, Cajun, and I spent many an our build our collective forst cage and you are just knocking out. Good job:)
So how I think the next two will go a little faster though.
from that angle that thing looks really tall...how much headroom are you going to advertise w/ your economic and space efficient patrol? :flipoff2:
it's actually pretty low considering 37's and allQuote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
from that angle that thing looks really tall...how much headroom are you going to advertise w/ your economic and space efficient patrol? :flipoff2:
'bout 8"s above the head
It's no wonder Jay is going so slow on his CJ. You've got him working on your stuff!:D
Well I was in RI last week and am in AL this week but got a few things done this weekend. I won't have pics up untill I get to a faster connection, but here is what I got done:
-redid rear shock mounts - made adjustable
-finished front shock mounts - made adjustable
-patched a large rusted piece of sheetmetal on RR fender and finished wheelwell
-welded and sanded seams in front tub
-redid front and rear exo cage bars - the rear are removable along with the body panels
-mounted front electric line lock and rear portioning valve
I will finish all plumbing and body work this weekend and will paint next week.
Wish me luck...
here are the new pics, I found a faster connection:)
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...um.php?page=20
Now correct me if I am wrong here but if you were to mount your shocks in the top mount, either front or back, would the shock body not rub pretty good on the lower p[art of the mounts when under some good flex? Or will this thing flex? :flipoff2:
Is the rear shock mount made of flat bar or angle iron? I think if it's flat bar, you should put a brace to the back side. My dune buggy had shock mounts just like that (flat bar only) and they bent and it didn't weigh half as much.
As for the front mounts, yes they will hit if I mount them in the top hole. Deal is, the top holes are for longer shocks in the future and I will cut the bottom half of the mount off.Quote:
Originally posted by rjlynn67
Now correct me if I am wrong here but if you were to mount your shocks in the top mount, either front or back, would the shock body not rub pretty good on the lower p[art of the mounts when under some good flex? Or will this thing flex? :flipoff2:
For the rear mounts - we will see - and yes it is flat plate, we will see if it holds up. Try it simple first, change it later.
I hate mounting shocks, it is just a huge guessing game. I am almost positive that they will all end up triangulated a little but I wanted to see how they do being straight first.
new pics here:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle...um.php?page=21
I took it all apart for paint...
here is a sample:
One question... why the bent rear links? Not that I know anything about this from experience, but on POR I had read that bent rears weakened links... you might want to gusset the lower side of the arm?
Doug
I have been debating the gusset - yes it weakens the link, but I think it might be OK. Something to add later...;)
Come on, just run the FEA model, then Heat treat the bastard!
I guess I could, but adding a low profile gusset sounds alot easier:DQuote:
Originally posted by rjlynn67
Come on, just run the FEA model, then Heat treat the bastard!
backwards progress???
will spray primer tonight, paint sat. morning (for cage and frame only)
PS: my camera has never worked the same after dropping it in the creek in Clayton - sorry about the quality