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its a company in colorado springs, co that specializes in scouts. i bought the reverse shackle kit from him when i was working in north mexico and didnt have access to steel to make my own. dont really like the fact he etched his logo there, cuz im not really one for labels, but they're nice parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
the guys super nice and has lots of parts any of ya'll could use. check him out here his prices are good too.
reverse shackleQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
progress tonight...
got the front springs installed, rear hangers set in place, and the weight back on the axle. i used the highly scientific, slightly mathmatic, wholly archaic method of eyeballing the placement for the rear hangers and whadda ya know it came out right. the shackles are about 3 degrees off from one another but are in the exact same place on each framerail. so, im gonna wait until i get the spacer under the drivers side spring and see if that alters the weight distribution enough to make the difference. if not, thats good enough for me. im gonna wait until tomorrow to tack the perches in place. its hard to see in the dark and the front of the scout is held up by 8 tack welds. so, id rather not get under it any more tonight to set the pinion angle.
look it over and see if it looks right...
I like all the O'Reiley's bags in the background. Looks like you're gonna make it to Clayton. How's the drive shaft situation. Will the old ones work? Do you have brake lines and the steering worked out?
tie rod and drag link (d&c extreme), and front d-shaft (high angle) are paid for, just need to get measurements and get em shipped. i bought them when i got the rs kit thinking i would do this then, but didnt have time. ive got all the knuckle out parts here and ready to bolt up minus the d side high steer arm which is in route. hopefully, ill have it all put together monday or so to get the links and shaft on the way. brake lines are all installed. you can see em hanging down. the rear shaft is going to come from a place in texarkana. after that i gotta wire my headlights, rad fan, and a few other misc things. oh, and my brothers mutt chewed the shoulders off of two of my spring bushings so ive gotta replace those when they get here.
castor correction is done. the pass side turned easily with a little application of the castor wrench. the drivers side was stubborn. i tried the wrench directly on the endyoke, wouldnt budge. i tried putting the old knuckle back on and jacking it up under the arm, wouldnt budge. tried both with heat, no movement. tried penetrating oil, nope. so, i put the old passenger side knuckle on the drivers side and applied the wrench to the top of the arm. with the added leverage it worked like a charm. both sides now have 5 degrees rearward castor.
oh yeah, my castor wrench...
looks good...almost time to go break stuff!
got the lunchbox dropped in. i cant remember if its a lockrite or an ez locker. i bought it a while back off ebay for cheap. had to pull the carrier and ring gear to get the cross pin out. took about 15 mins to get it put together. what took so long was cleaning out my housing. seems one of my axle tubes was full of sand, looked like beach sand. i dunno how it got there... any ideas grayson? anyways, after i pulled the axles and beat the crap outta it turning the knuckles, the sand got into every bearing in the housing. took two quarts of oil and a can of brake clean to get the pinion bearings clean. it really needs new bearings and seals, but since im broke now, it aint gettin em.
When I had my d60 gears dont at a local shop down in corpus, they said that there was like 1/4" of sand in the bottom of the tubes. I went and looked at it and sure enough there was. The fluid that came out of it looked like chocolate milk and both inner shafts and one stub shaft had to be replaced due to rust on the seal surfaces. I dont know how sand could get in there but I guess it does :confused:
Well you see the tube is about 1" bigger than the shaft and not sealed
Hmmm this is why I wanted to rebuild the d60 myself but o well. So you're saying there are no seals on the outside end of the tubes?
never had a 60 apart but im sure its just like my 44. the only seal between atmosphere and gear oil is just outboard of the carrier bearings.
anybody got a disc brake outer axle for a scout they wanna bring me today?
you need a stub shaft?Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
yup, you got one?
should have a couple spares at the house.....I'll look tonight.
the "cox" locker is a nice touch, how long does it take to unlock like the "ox" locker? My guess is a grinder and 45-60 minutes. Get that thing to clayton, you'll win the drag competition fo shure! I also want to see a ****load of yellow paint all over the rocks and trees! Nice work on the axle twist, you should be able to drive it no hands at 70 mph now... :gigem: It needs bigger tires... :flipoff2:
i had Tues. and Wed. off work so i went out to E. Tx to help John out for a couple of days. some progress was made, but there were even more realizations that he's still lacking parts. scout stub shaft anyone? other than that he's ready to put it all back together and put wheels on it to have the front axle done. how do you other scout guys go about tightening the spindle nuts? we couldnt find a spindle nut socket anywhere. got the shock towers and lower shock mounts put on the front w/ some 5012s. ~7.25" down travel and 6.25" up travel, which was perfect for the bumpstops. also realized the scout "extended brake lines" werent even long enough to reach from the frame mount to the caliper. talked about putting the T on top of the axle like i have, but it would've meant re-routing a lot of the hardlines....so we went to Ho'Reillys, dug thru the boxes, and found some that would work as an extension for the extended brake lines. i think from the mount out theres now like 34" of brake line. :D he also got in new headers, and we test fitted them probably 10 times to figure out why they wouldnt fit...we did all we could but came to the conclusion that they just wouldnt work w/o either notching the frame or somehow bending the crap outta some blingin' ass headers. he said he's sending `em back today and ordering another set. still needs to make rear shock mounts on top...which should be easy...get headers, and exhaust put on, and wire everything up. lotsa work, little time, and little $$. a TRUE tamor project.
pics:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/galleries/lonestar/album283
oh yeah....i played w/ the dog a lot and we killed a 30 pack. i think the dog had 3 last nite :gigem: pretty impressive vertical for a 45(?)lb dog.
I've got the socket for tightening that at the house, I think I have a couple of them actually. If you would like to borrow it you can snag it this weekend. HOLY ****! That is a world champion frisbee dog if I'ver ever seen one...
sounds good, i think i found a stubby here in town, but i gotta convince him to part out the axle. ill just get a socket from you this weekend. thanks.
frisbee dog maybe, but drinkin' dog....well, still maybe....he drank up the Keystone Light like a champ last nite, but was movin' kinda slow this mornin'. John said he tried to give him some more this afternoon and he wouldnt touch the stuff. pretty sure the wuss was hungover. :gigem:
yeah, he didnt chase you half as far as he chases every other vehicle leaving the driveway. i guess "hair of the dog that bit you" doesnt apply if you are a dog.
got the rear shocks mounted and got some work done on the twin stick. heres the shocks but the twin stick isnt picture worthy yet. the top shock mount, formerly known as 3" channel iron, bolts to the factory location. the lower shock mounts at all four corners are the resurrection of my old rear spring perches cut in half.
looks clean!
how thin is it? Since you told us thin stuff makes you hard :eek:
18 gauge...
fap,fap,fap,fap,fap
in that case, I hope trailside repairs make you hard too!
i was kidding. its like 1/4" or so.
fap fap fap!
progress as of 2:19am on thursday...
got the drivers side knuckle-out put together after i found the shaft yesterday. new headers came in today and, this time, the drivers side fit well and the passenger side didnt. it hit the firewall. i was tired of doing the header shuffle and liked the way these were tucked up out of the way, so i commenced to beating it into submission. this didnt do the trick so i got a little carried away and took the sawzall to it. first a little, then a lot. never thought my rustfree scout would see a sawzall, but here it is. by the time i was done cutting i thought id really screwed up and was kicking myself. anyways, i fitted a peice of sheet and busted the tig back out and went to welding. since my sheet metal tig skillz suck, i soon tired of this and decided to try the same power setting, except with a 6011. worked nicely. now i can add sheet metal stick welder to my resume.
well, off to get a new can of grizzly wintergreen and keep at it.
you lookum pictures here:
fancy
Very nice work indeed :gigem:
looking good :bigthumb:
this is pretty much a sympathy post for myself to make me feel a little better since im bummed about not making it to clayton.
today got the new rear cv shaft, its 2" OD and .120 wall. and mocked up the steering. the tie rod and drag link are 1.25"x .281" wall DOM. im gonna send the drivers side arm back and get another that is tapered properly. ill have to bend them both up a little. no problem since there are several good fab shops with huge breaks locally. other than that its going pretty well. ya'll have fun in clayton and i might see you there, but with no rig of my own.
so , took a little break this weekend after an ill-fated hard push last week. all i got done was some misc. painting (just ask austin, i like to paint things), some wiring done and the rear driveshaft bolted in. dont hold me to it, but theres a chance this thing could be driveable by the end of the week.
ill include a pic to make this post a little more interesting...
got the front d-shaft in today. highangle cv longtravel. since the front is reverse shackle it needs the added slip. i also found a use for one of my shock boots since the boot jesse puts on em only has about 3 inches of stretch in it. i flexed her out a little to see how the shaft would clear my pan since its bigger than the old cv i test fitted. its close but, well, i dunno. im gonna try it. if it doesnt clear at full stuff then ill figure something else out.
wheres a good place to set the front bumpstops? when the spring goes flat? this will keep the springs from sagging quickly, but will it limit my wheel stuff too much?
when they go flat. If you get the right kind of bumpstops....they'll compress another 2-3".
Set bumpstops so the tires no rub fenders and shocks don't bottom out. That whole negative arch destroys springs thing is BS.
he no gotum mil-wraps
bumpstops? we don't need no stinking bumpstops...
plenty of shock travel, and no rub-em fenders, so no need right?
well... if i dont use bumps i know the front driveshaft will get into the tranny pan as it is now and im pretty sure the d-side spring will hit the tre on the pitman arm when that side is stuffed. ill get it assembled and flex it with the forklift this week and decide then.