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Ok here we go, got the rear end put in and drivin, went together suprisingly easy without any problems so i started on the front end tonight, pretty much just had time to get rid of all torsion stuff and a arms tomorrow will do the rest and start measurin everything up. Posted a couple of pics...
44044s?
Eggsellent. :cheers:
yeah theyre 44044s got a pretty good deal on them through 4wpw. 210 delivered.
its scary how much that thing looks like nutz pile o' crap at 1st glance. hope you're up to finishing before this thread hits 30 pages, since that seems to be the standard everyone tries NOT to beat.
looks good tho. i like how shiny everything is. mine was that way once.
I think you need some bigger/taller jack stands. Those things look scary. looks like you're making some progress....And please finish this by page ten. I don't want to see pics and engineering drawings of the bolts you bought to attach your new antennae.
that stuff looks great! (and fun)
what size tires are you working around?
ok heres todays accomplishments, (not much), got most of the ifs mounts removed off the truck and made the sping perches for the front axle and bolted everything to axle spring wise. Slid it under truck to see where everything will be sittin. Tomorrow will try to weld everything up and have it rollin at least. Looks as though its gonna sit pretty tall hoping not too tall, i see now the 36's will be no problem, just hope it all settles down and rides a bit lower than what it looks like it will.
Slow down damnit. You're making me look slow.
With 44044s it's going to ride really tall, because mine does. If you have a body lift you will need to take it off.
In edit: You do have a body lift, so take it off. It will be the second best thing you ever did to your truck, after putting the axle on.
damn....those rims are...
...about as bling as the wheels you started off with. :flipoff2:
I'll have to dig up a pic of those when I get home...
i'll save you the trouble....1st one is stock, my very 1st off-roading adventure in that truck. 2nd is after a body lift, 33"s and BLING! wheels....they were just polished tho, not full chrome like yours his appear to be.
i bet it got pretty good gas milage in this pic...
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=4033&stc=1
if i remember right it was ~15mpg.
but to keep this on topic, it had a Dana 44 front then too...TTB crap, but still...
no, you're making you look slow!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
:flipoff2:
Man, it looks good! you're making very un-TAMORish progress...
Also, it looks like you're working in a real shop!? You should be doing this on a greasy driveway with beercans lying around and a HOA breathing down your neck!
:D
ok tonight was hell, this afternoon finally got to the ppoint where everything needed to be measured up and welded in and this took forever. Little tap here and there and measure measure measure. got the front crossmember positioned perfectly plumb. positioned the axle in there and attempted to position the rear shackle hangers in the right position which was near to impossible. finally gave up on the measurin and put them where they looked like they needed to go and made sure they both lined up the same on both sides. the problem is though that the frame rails arent the same on both sides and on one side the shackle hanger barely grabs the frame so sorta rigged a little support in there to hold it for now. i thihnk i tooka pic of this it was late and took a couple of pics dont know how turned out. everything is tacked up and tomorrow ill get a guy that can really weld, weld it all up... sorry for long post.
holy crapsickles! you sure you dont wanna move that rear upper shackle mount back? now, given, i've never setup a leaf spring front, but that shackle angle looks to be WAY to extreme...especially if none of the vehicle weight is on it. BTW...props on getting this far this fast....i looked back, and by page 10 of nutz's thread he was still taking pictures every 5 mins and then asking stupid questions on the internet. :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
vanity plates are :rainbow:
:flipoff2:
I think I would move that shackle hanger back some also. also may want to lose that body lift. it looks pretty tall right now.
I'd move the spring hanger forward instead, and french the shackle hanger to lose an inch or so...
and CUT THOSE FENDERS!
;)
edit: looks like frenching them really isn't an option, but I'd do a mix of moving spring hanger forward and shackle hanger back...move those wheels forward a bit
in those pics all the weight is on the truck that is how they sit goin down the road. And cant move them back because there is no frame rail left to mount to.
i dont think im gonna move anything and see how it rides... i have to get some way to level out the back, it needs new springs bad but nobody makes lift rear springs so...
where there's a will theres a way. no one said an SAS would be easy, although the 3-4 i've participated in went pretty well....i guess just dont ask nutz....anyway, this is the reason they dont make a kit for this project. its all about kustom fabbing some kludge fuct shat that works. function over form.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
might see how much it is to get a set made. and if there is no frame further back, just make you some inboard spring bracets. whenever that thing goes up and down the road right now, it the shackle and back of the spring of going to hit your frame.
and once those springs settle down the shackle will probably be flat up against the frame. all projects get some sorta hitch. no worries....chadnutz had the same problem...but unfortunately for him fixing it involved adding dual cases to the truck for some reason. you should definately rethink leaving it that way.
yes you all are right just went over to move the truck and work on it and jump up and down on the front of it and the shackles collapsed against the frame, the only problem is that those brackets are welded on there pretty good and its gonna be forever tryin to remove them without destrying them, but i guess thats what needs to be done.
search here and on pirate for pics of people's inboarded hangers...it's not that big a deal
Austin - It's a little easier to swap a Ford than a compact truck other than Toyota. You and I both know that so get off your high horse. :flipoff2:
Mud King - I ran into the same problem that you do. I had to move the hanger further forward because the frame was too narrow where I first mounted the shackles. I layed under the truck and stared at the whole picture for so many hours trying to figure out what I was going to do. In the end I took some 4*1/4 angle iron and welded a triangle on the inside for support. Then I welded that to the inside of the frame. Then I took the DOM from All Pro and welded that onto the bottom of the angle once the springs were in the right spot. At full flex the shackle points straight backward, but that hasn't caused any problems so far. After I graduate and get settled in plan to make my own frame to eliminate many of these problems.
I'll find some pictures...
I had to use duel cases because there was no way I was going to get a driveshaft to make the drop from the front output of the tcase to the yoke on the third member. The case is too close to the axle and it points a little up.
The shackle hanger in early stages.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=2076&stc=1
Moving the spring hanger forward.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=2570&stc=1
I will never understand why everyone finds the need to fully weld something up before they put the tires on and check it to make sure it works... I've got two words for you - Tack Welds! They work! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
did you say that pic had the truck's weight on it??!!
too freaking tall!
I would lower it or build a really tough cage!
He can still lose 3" from the body lift.
ok im gonna take the body lift off because it is higher than wanted so when it is off the hood will sit about chest high, i think thats a lot better than it is now, havent had time to move the shackle mounts, went and measured a wagoneers mounts from front to back and my mounts are a good three inches to far forward so im gonna move them back three inches i think this will fix that problem. Now the next thing thats on my mind is how im gonna lift the rear to match the front, no one makes lift rear springs so i was wonderin if i could get them rearched and put like a four inch block in there to level it out. The back is a good five inches lower than front. But then im afraid that the driveshaft is gonna run out of slip, its a two piece design. Is it expensive to lengthen a drive shaft like 4 inches?
I suggest getting the same 44044's that you have in the front...it will give you a little more wheel base if you want and they are good springs. as for d-shafts being expensive...it is moer expensive to lengthen cause you cant cut and buttweld a extension(can for spares though). i would imagine that you can have one side of the driveshaft lengthen. i know a place in dallas that builds them for 50 plus parts and balances for 50.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud King
EDIT: dont go through all the trouble of modifing it like you are and put blocks in the rear. its a lot easier to redo the rear then it is the front.
the rear springs are 54 inches long flat length.
no...i think you're just dumb. we did nix's axle swap in less time than it took to do mine, given, the IFS was already removed, but thats the easy part. I actually think it took just as long to do the full width swap, but still over the course of a weekend. maybe if you kick that lame mule of yours to the curb and get yourself a high horse you'll finish in a timely manner from here on out. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadnutz
now that further nutz bashing is done, back to the topic at hand. dont use blocks. i like steve's idea of you getting another set of 44044s. if thats not an option b.c. of price or whatever, find something you can get lift springs for that uses springs that are the same length from one end to the centerpin as yours. then all you have to do is move the rear hanger forward or backwards. we used 12" suburban front lift springs on nix's rear end and just had to move the shackle hanger forward ~6". also double check that they're the same width.
driveshaft king is in dallas and where we took nix's shafts. look 'em up in the phone book. relatively cheap and quick. the 3 times i've had my driveshafts worked on i've used seguin alternator and drivetrain. kinda a weird combination, but they're cheap and were close to where i was living.
F150 springs are 52-53". 4wd versions are 3" wide, 2wd versions are 2.5" wide. might be a start.
Now that I have this up here...
http://www.ultra150.com/images/150-99/ultra99-2.jpg
...my weekends are pretty much booked.
This is my high horse. :D
Too bad it doesn't come with one of these.
http://www.ultra150.com/images/150-99/ultra99-g.jpg
no dedication :cheers:
I did the same thing....tacked on the shackles....jumped in the driver seat and just my weight alone made the shackles go against the frame.....
1. prepare to move them numerous times
2. tack weld as said before (weld once!!!)
3. hate to be a armchair qb, but early in this thread, i suggested you use some stock waggys....cause due to the design of the frame of the s10s, a sas alone adds alot of height....i don't speak from experience, but just from what i've seen.....if you really had to have 'new' springs, you coulda just went with new waggys from jcwhitney.....i think you'll be battling the height from the springs, and the settling of them versus the shackle angle for a while....its not bad though...looks good. and i also said to keep it as low as possible because its gonna end up higher than you want it....i suggest you get rid of those silly 44044s and go with a stock waggy, fix your shackle hangers, take out the body lift, trim the fenders, and you'll still have plenty of room to run 35-37s.
i thinkif i had stock waggys they would bend up because 44044s now with all weight on them are pretty much flat, that front end must be pretty heavy, got everything hooked up like hubs and such and installed a XJ pitman arm due top the funky s10 pitman/tierod end arm. was gonna run 4 inch drop yj but a stock xj is the same and only cost 20 bucks. tomorrow night gonna move mounts back three inches, went and measured a waggy's mounts and mine are three inches to far forward. so gonna do that and hook up steering and hopefully have it drivin by saturday some time, then will level out rear end some how and try to have it completed by friday so can drive it to CS.