ok first pic is a front view... second is rear view and third is the bushings under the transmission... i'll show how that drop works when i get a driveshaft in there
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ok first pic is a front view... second is rear view and third is the bushings under the transmission... i'll show how that drop works when i get a driveshaft in there
looks good
the top bushings may not last very long w/ that casting digging in. may try using something like a thick rubber mat or stacked mudflap material with a custom metal washer cut from tin or something.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
or fender washers just like you have on the bottom
ya i thought about that when i looked at that pic... i have some washers i am gonna put in tomorrow after work
That crossmember is simple, yet elegant. I really dig it. I almost wish I hadnt started on all the tube bending and **** I'm doing for mine but its too late to go back now! I may lose my $1 to you yet!
i like the bushings on the crossmember, are those body bushings? Its coming together but what i can deduce from the second picture your are gonna have to stop if like the flintstones since you aint got no calipers...
i have calipers they just are not on it... those bushings are the front two bushings that go on the front of the body but im not running a front clip so i found a good use for em... they are polyeurithane (sp?) and i think they will do
I like that crossmember. I need to make one like it for the front case, but I'm not that motivated. :flipoff2: I think you might want to look into putting some triangles near those corners. They may experience a lot of stress.
i am pretty sure it is atleast ten times as strong as the stock crossmember
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
referring back to this... i am dumb and didnt know i had to do some grinding on the shift rail... so i am about to do this... shouldnt take too long... found a damn good webpage describing how to do it
http://ivanribic.clubfte.com/page2.html
ok i got it all grinded and back together... i cant tell what is high and low range but i can put it in front wheel drive so i guess it is right :)
i got the washers inbetween the tcase and bushings... looks better now... running to the ford house to get some ujoint straps for a 10.25 and then shortening a couple driveshafts.... does anyone have a thin walled 1" 5/16 socket i can use to put on the front yoak... it is just finger tight right now and i dont have a socket for it
I got a 1 5/16" socket, dunno if it is thin enough, but you can try it. I'm at the house.
tate where the hell do you live now? Still on richards? I drove down the street and couldn't remember which one was yours, but I didn't see the bronco frame or your truck. The bronco frame looks like it's outside in pictures?
i still live on richards... the bronco is in the garage... and i was at the parts store probably... finding a ujoint for the rear axle was a pita... there was one in the bryan hoe ryleys... and my spare will be in the cs store tomorrow
now that i have all the proper u-joints and u-joint straps... it is time to shorten a couple driveshafts... hope i can get them done before the woman gets off work... she doesnt like me to only come in to eat dinner.... on a side note i cant remember the last time i cooked or ate out... i got a good woman
when shortening a driveshaft what is easier...
a) cutting driveshaft at stock weld trim it and weld back up there
or
b) cutting driveshaft in the center trim it and sleve it with smaller tube)
Id Say Cut And Sleeve....but What Do I Know...
I think people usually cut at the weld, but I've never actually done it...
Where's the Pollock?
the first pic is of a fubared piece of my press... that should be not be bent... the second is of the front driveshaft in... the third is a pic of the driveshaft rubbing... afraid it wont work... and there isnt room for a cv shaft so i dunno what to do
you could always build a two peice front shaft with a pillow block so that you will have room for a CV
I vote for clocking the 205 to get it away from the pan. Might require some crossmember modifications though. That driveshaft angle looks too steep for a regular joint so me thinks a CV is in order.
im not clocking it... i dont want it any lower..
also i dont know what is ment by a pillow block... i dont think there is enough room for a 2 piece shaft... it is only 29" long
I think he means a carrier bearing... but I think a CV is your best bet.
What series u-joint is that? If it's not a 1310 you might try to find measurements to see if a 1310 flange would work in place of that yoke, then run a 1310 CV front.
I meant clock it up. Hypothetically it would move the output away from the pan.
It looks to me like the driveshaft ears are rubbing on the yoke.
You may be able to grind some of that problem away, but I don't know how much I'd trust that as a long-term fix.
as soon as i get some money the 203 is going in there and it will scoot it back and this problem will be no more
get tom woods superflex joints thats what he put in my front shaft so the ears wouldnt rub...
sounds like $$... i am gonna try something on the cheap
Yea good choice on doing the doubler. Would be alot of work for that auto to spin the 39s with only a 205 and 4.10s behind it.
As for the crossmember/ujoint contact situation, find a piece of 4-6" pipe and saddle it into the tubing where it rubs, then plate the bottom of the drop down with 3/8-1/2" plate or so. If you don't plate the bottom, at least ad some sacraficial welds on the edges/corners, eventually they'll wear through, so better to do it now.
I'd cut the shafts in the middle and then sleeve them. But it looks you've allready got that part done.
ok well my girlfriend moved back to san antonio and i dont think i want to waist all the extra time i have on school so progress will start again shortly.. the only problem is i dont know where i want to start... we will see what happens
Make a list and number it, then strictly follow it. If you cant make yourself do that, then write down each individual job that needs to be done on little pieces of paper, put them all in a hat, then draw untill the thing is done.
or just do like me, know what you want to do and work on whatever you feel like working on each day. it still gets done and you can adjust for parts availability and order of operations.
i was thinking about it while in class and the first step is gonna be to make more room in the shop... this is something that i always have to do at each new location(this being #3 for this rebuild) next is going to be find hardware to bolt tub on, patch leak in gas tank, cut hole in tub for gas tank, then finally bolt the body down. one of my biggest concerns is that i STILL need a ford np203... i have been looking(not so activly) for over a year and have comeup with nada. another thing i should go ahead and do is send off my steering box to get drilled and tapped for hydro assist(i won a stage ii setup at tcc so this is a freebee)lots of stuff left but atleast i have all the time in the world. one of my missions this year is to get rid of ALL of the crap in my shop that i dont need and wont be going on the bronco... it all has to be gone before i move to san antonio in the summer
I just called west texas offroad and all i need to do is go out to she shop and get the steering box and send it to them... so that is one of my goals for this week... maby even today
the cheby np203s are different aren't they?
yup
just making sure becaues I know of a cheby 203, I figured they were but you never know
i shoulda taken the 203 outa my peice of crap that i had. i have that dudes email if you want it. he'd sell it im sure