veggie is pretty simple to setup. just need a thorough filtering system
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veggie is pretty simple to setup. just need a thorough filtering system
and a warming system
my mom got me a couple ammo cans at a flea market in Alfred. They were $10 a peice and she said they had some bigger ones.
if you add some regular diesel 80 veggie/20 diesel mix and mix it well enough (emulsify it) should be fine in the texas heat. If you worried about cold just throw a heater core in the tank and tape the heater lines to the fuel lines.
Goddamit you guys. Now that I'm thinking about it, I will not be using the factory heater, so it would be a cinch to route the lines back to the tank and booty fab a heater. Oh well, that will wait for another day, for now this thing will (hopefully) smell like butthole. Eric, if you paid $30 apiece for ANY ammo can, I salute you for receiving possibly the worst anal ream of all time. I'll probably just use one of the cans from the Burban, they are ****ing huge and will hold anything I should need to take on the trail. I got my brake parts and steering system today so look for some killa pics tomorow!
well, to do it the easy way: get a 12 volt fuel pump and a remote oil filter set up. pour the oil through a cloth filter to get out the big stuff. then use the fuel pump and filter to to get it down to the fine micron stuff. don't filter the crud off the bottom of the containers. leave that for the dog. mix it 80/20 and blend the hell out of it...haven't figured how to blend it was thinking of using a weedeater w/ a prop on it and a shortened shaft like Butler use to have.
get one of those paint blenders that fit in your drill
just get a little fan blade and put it on the drill
I got the steering installed and some of the brakes done today. The ****ing brakelines are taking as long as I expected, they are all 3/16" lines but use 3 different sized fittings in various places.
[rant]
Jegs is stupid. I ordered a adjustable proportioning valve and linelock from them and got them on time. Both were Jegs brand. The proportioning valve has 8 AN female thread from the input and output, but it came with two brass fittings to convert the 8 AN to 3/16" double flare, the standard for most brake systems. The linelock also has 8 AN female threads for the input and output, but it didnt come with any adapter fittings. Where is the logic in that? Now I get to go to vato zone and try to find the least useless person there and convince them to let me dig through their fittings, since I really doubt they could tell a double flare from their dick (or twat).
[/rant]
Here's some progress pics. I got most of the brakelines done today, I just need to instal one more. Luckily, the stars aligned and I was able to find a monkey who knew what he was doing at O'reily's and got the conversion fittings for the linelocks, as well as some other fittings that I needed. The power steering is hooked up, and I mod'd the pump to flow more to help whenever I decide to instal my hydro assist. Got the crossover steering put on and the rear driveshaft bolted in. Tomorow I am hoping to finish up the brakelines and wiring, and maybe start with the fluids. I still dont have soft brakelines running to the axles so that is a holdup at this point. Here's pics.
Got the rest of the brakes done today, all I need in that department is to order the soft lines to the axles. I started on the electrical accesories today, I had to cut the **** out of the dash to mount my switch panel. I took all the crap out of the stock ash tray area and mounted my fuse block for the accesories there.
Everything's looking great! :gigem: Are you planning on using the line lock for park brake or just temporary hold? I prob would have gone with the mechanical type if using for regular park brake. Plumbing would suck, but on a steep hill I would trust it more.
Its just going to be for burnouts and temporary e-brake like when winching. I have a high angle t-case e-brake that is going to be used on the rear so bleed off isnt reall a concern.
Cool. High angle tcase ebrake? Are you talking High Angle Driveline brand?
Yes
Here's the pic of the high angle 205 flange and e-brake. I put the grill back on so I can hook up the radiator and maybe start this biatch soon. The switch panel is totaly done, I just need to add fuses and find a ground in the cab to screw it to. Look at all them wires and yes I am going to put a grommet in the firewall hole I just havent gotten one yet.
there is waaaay to much progress being made for this to be a tamor project. Keep up the good work.
robert, got any front quarter panels you wanna donate?:-D
I have some front fenders that I'll sell to you. I kinda want to keep them but if you make it worth my while it can happen. Brandon, I am unemployed and really have nothing else to do, which results in great progress.
Got the winch mount made today.
What a day what a day. I made my 4th and 5th purchases of $20 or more from Vatozone today and got my free $20 gift card :gigem: . I wired up the in-cab winch controller and it works like a charm. I got the radiator mounted and everything except the oil cooler hooked up, I am having some issues locating fittings to screw into the radiator. I changed the fluid and filters in the tranny and engine, at which time I deduced that you cannot have a catch pan too large when draining a tranny. I took a bunch of tires to get dismounted and get the burban's tires taken off the blingin aluminums and put on the icky steelies. They weigh a goddam ton now, its seriously rediculous. I also finished up the switch panel inside, everything works perfectly except the blue LED for the foglights is burnt out or something. I am *hoping* (knock on wood) to get it started up tomorow, but we'll see. Also, check out my badass steel braided brakelines from speedway motors, a set with 36" long fronts and a 25" long rear, with all the fittings I needed was about $85. Cant beat that and the quality is up there.
does the inside of that spring plate bolt to the pumpkin? no u-bolt?
No u-bolt, that is correct. It uses two 5/8" bolts. I had to make some angled washers to go between the spring plates and the nuts, because I used 6 degree shims to angle my pinion up so then the bolts would not sit flat on the spring plate. They are booty-tastic and I'll get pics tomorow.
well I hope that they are at least grade 8 bolts. that could be a fun trail fix.
The project looks good. Are you going to bring it to College Station in the fall?
Yes, they are grade 8. It will be coming to CS. I cranked it today. Got the fuel system bled but did not have time to actually start it. It wont be trail ready when it gets to CS though, it'll still need shocks, a front driveshaft and misc. other doodads.
shocks are for pansies, and you and I both know that driveshaft fabrication is a 2-hour job :D
Don't all leaf sprung D60s use that same style spring perch? Do you think that parts store ubolts are grade 8?
awesome progress man :gigem:
yessirQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
Nope fords dont do that
I was just thinking Chevy since that's what the picture was... My bad.
Well I worked on it all day today but didnt seem to get much accomplished. I cranked the **** out of it today but it still wont start, I think it has air in the injector lines, I'll crack and purge them tomorow and see what happens. I cut the ass end of the frame off, lost about 2' including the stock bumper. I started on my rear attachment point, I was going to use the badass pintle hitch from a CUCV truck, but the truck had other plans. The CUCV parts truck I have is the rustiest ****ing truck you will ever see. I **** you not the goddam thing is flaking apart with rust, literaly. All the springs are completely rusted through, the frame is broken in a few spots, all the shackles are toast, it really is a sight to behold. Anyway, it has a sweet ass pintle hitch setup on the back bumper that I thought would be perfect for the trail truck. the pintle is attached to a 1 1/8" threaded shank that goes through the bumper and a y-yoke to the frame and is held on by one bigass nut, so it can spin 360 degrees. Getting the nut of was fairly painless, the the actual pintle was rusted in solid. I soaked it in liquid wrench from both sides and beat the piss out of it with a hammer. I used a 6' length of pipe to try to turn it and got it to more about 1/4." At that point I decided to use the 400 ft. lbs. of fury in the DD. It didnt work, I dragged the truck about 6' and put a hole in my chain link fence. So I said ****it and decided to go with a receiver hitch.
shoulda put the blue tip wrench on it
pintles rock!
i wouldnt give up on it just yet, soak it and heat it. See what happens.
IT LLLLIIIVVVVEEEESSSSSSS!!! The mother ****er actually started today! I bled the air out of the injector lines and cranked and cranked it some more and when I had given up all hope, it roared to life and my shop went from empty to full of smoke in 10 seconds flat (6000 sq. ft.). The sound is incredible, it is remenescnet of a top fuel dragster. I reved it and reveled in the sounds of succes, the truck's first breath of life in 3 years. I shut it off and got out to check everything out and realized I had forgoten to put the tranny modulator in so there was about 1/4 quart of tranny fluid on the ground. No biggie. I also replaced the power steering pump because it had been leaking really bad, and replaced the rear output seal on the t-case. I would go after the pintle some more but I dont have enough time. I am aiming to arrive in CS on friday and there is a ****load more work to be done, building the exhaust mostly, but plenty of other little ****.
Well I tackled 99% of the little **** today. The truck is physically ready to go onto the trailer and move to our new home in the Motherland. I was going to load it up tonight but hit a snag. The ***** wouldnt start tonight. I dont know why, but a few on the injectors were leaking fuel from the fuel return lines, so that was probably it. It sputtered a little bit but I gave up on it. I'm going to get some little bitty hose clamps tomorow and some radiator leak stopper, because it has a pinhole leak in the bottom of the radiator that only leaks when the water is circulating. I am planning on getting to CS tomorow evening, baring catastrophic failure of anything. Here's what it looks like all ready to go.
looks good :gigem:
niiiiiice...
You need to do a little saw action on those fenders, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aggieblazer07
are you guys seeing the same pictures as I am :confused2Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
I was ready to give up the Ugly Truck title when I saw those
Just kidding I likey. hack about 6" off the bottom of the front of those fenders and she'll be right.
:gigem:
that's one Butt Ugly Truck :)
Fenders already hacked. The 56" springs worked out well. They moved the front axle 4" forward which placed the tire in an almost ideal place in the wheel well. The 36's fit with only that front flap needing to be trimmed with approx 4" of lift.
You might as well take those front frenders off they are going to get beat to crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006