But of course
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But of course
ryno this is what I was talking about regarding the DVD player trim piece. There are interchangable surrounds for the 2 different roof lines of a series 2, but they never made one for a series 1 so it'll have to be kustom.
no ports. sealed is way easier and better sounding for most speakers
If that was true, why would anyone build a box with ports?
because it it louderQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
ported boxes are for letting your neighbors hear the bump, sealed boxes are what you would find in any higher sound quality system
...
what is the nominal impedance seen by the amp in this setup?
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...61786730_n.jpg
why are you putting all this together if you can't figure that out?
:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Thanks for the helpful reply! I'm assuming the impedance would be 8 ohms since crossovers dont severely affect impedance, only frequency; however, I have never seen a bridged setup on a passive crossover and I want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something small.
I posted this here hoping someone who actually knows their **** when it comes to this stuff, Seth, Flem, any others, might be able to offer up some advice.
I originally wanted to run a 4 ohm mid and 8 ohm tweet, but found that it would not work out well for power balance.
Back on topic, I'm doing it partly for the learning experience, partly to save money on the task at hand. The same reason you try things with your rig that you've never done before.
I'm assuming the nominal impedance would be 8 ohms at the amp, just wanting a second opinion before I wire together a bunch of expensive car stereo components.
Where are you getting 8 ohm stuff for mobile audio? I think you are too focused on running bridged. Run your mids and highs 4 ohm.
The amp will see 8 ohms in that setup fyi. Crossover is just splitting and crossing.
Dayton Audio. Have read nothing but good things about them. They're more focused on home audio stuff, but a lot of people have had a lot of success running their equipment in a car stereo setup. Another big reason for choosing them over Focal, hertz, morel etc. would be the fact that they offer a more-than-decent 4" driver. (and price isn't bad at all either). The reason I'm bridging the amp is because I'm expecting the amp to see 8 ohms, so I'm hoping to bridge the amp to make up for the power loss seen by the higher impedance.
Dayton offers the 4" mid in either 4 ohm or 8 ohm, the tweeter; however, is only offered in an 8 ohm. Since I don't want to have to deal with the headache of figuring out a crossover running one driver at 4 ohm and the other at 8, i decided to just go with both drivers at 8 ohms.
What are your thoughts?
I'd run 4 ohms...Keep it simple.
Alright Seth, time to pick your brain some more...
I've decided to take your advice and go 4 ohm all around and ditch the passive crossovers.
So here we go.
The H/U I have has a HPF that I can adjust (will probably wind up putting it on around 50-63 hz.
Keeping with the 3-way components, can I buy an amp that has an active crossover built in to eliminate the need to buy an external active xover? The H/U has 6 sets of preouts (2 for sub outputs) so I am thinking I can use the first set for the front stage, second set for the rear, third for subs.) I realize this is going to be a 4 amp setup, but might as well just do it right the first time.
I'm thinking if I can find a 4 channel with a bandpass filter on it, I can just run active straight to the tweets and mids and use the amp to cross the tweets appropriately (3500-5000hz, depends on what sounds best in the car) and the mids the same way (probably 250-400, again depends on sound)
Then another 2 channel for the 8s (will be better anyway since the 8's can handle more RMS power)
Not even going to mess with the rear right now. Focusing on getting the front stage finished up.
I have these in the doors of my truck and the stock stereo.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ries/TS-G6844R
To keep it simple, the driver side speaker sounds like it went out on the radio but on CD it sounds okay. Speaker problem or stock 12 year old head unit problem? I'll find some other ones to test in the next couple of days to see what happens but I'm just trying to get an idea of what it might be.
Old head unit, have had similar problemsQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Well, can anybody recommend a lower end double din head unit? I just want a decent head unit with a set of preouts auxiliary port in front and doesn't feel cheap.
It's most likely the head unit if the speaker works fine on one input and not the other.
If you want to be sure it's not the speaker, take a DMM and set it to measure resistance. The coils should read out to be around 4 ohms if they are 4 ohm speakers, or 8 ohms if they are 8 ohm speakers. A reading of 3.5-4 is considered acceptable.
Also, you can have my Kenwood head unit that's in the bronco. Has a detachable faceplate, front aux and usb. Works good, pretty basic head unit. It's a KDC-208 I bought about a year ago off of crutchfield. $40?
I'll find my meter and test it. Thanks for the tip. I'm looking for a double din head unit so no dice.
I'll take the head unit. Plus you can come over and check out my shop
You can just get a standard head unit and a kit and give your self a lot more choices.
HP I will look and think some more in a few. Going to catch up first.
**** just got real
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...97305518_o.jpg
Finally got it all finished and tuned.
Fully active, 4-way system with:
Hertz HV 165XL getting 200 rms each bandpassed 80-800hz.
Hertz EM100 getting 75 rms each bandpassed @ 500-4khz
DLS Classic Tweeter @ 75 rms each HP @ 4khz
2 Sundown Audio SA-12 @ 1000 each. Box tuned to 32 hz. Crossovers @ 25-100hz
Memphis Pro Coaxials in the rear @ 200 rms.
Last on the list is a crapton of sound deadener, another battery, and some 4/0 to 1/0 reducers.
Onto the prons--
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...79837014_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...01159442_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...44528450_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...01593710_n.jpg
Looks kewl, now, can you decode your post for the uninformed? :-)
I think it means music go boom boom, but I have no clue?Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
I said uninformed, not we todd id...
haha
It does go boom boom when I want it to, but when I turn the bass down, it actually sounds fantastic on music. My goal was to create the ultimate SQ build with the option of getting crazy loud if I wanted to.
The sound quality is amazing. Going fully active (amplifying after you crossover) is the only way to do it. The speakers all image so well, I'm very happy with how it all turned out.:gigem:
running 2k watts to the subs
1.5k watts to the mids and highs
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...221_123146.jpg
Anybody know where to get a cheap back up camera? Also, for anyone who has put a stereo in a not too old Ford, what did you do with the two orange wires that are both marked illumination?
cap em? arent those for the lights in the oem head unit?
I would hook at least one up. Read up on it, it will dim your head unit when you turn headlights on etc.
I hooked the one the instructions specified up, but it didn't dim. I'll try the other one tonight. I think one is to power the lights and the other one is to tell them to dim when you flip the headlight switch. Amazon has back up cameras galore, I just have to find one with decent reviews. All I have left to do is trim the dash opening, find a wire for reverse, and run RCA cables to my amp. I don't know why I haven't gone with an aftermatket head unit sooner. It is so nice to have and it's not even done.
seths right, they dim your unit when you flip on the lights. you'll need to run the orange wire to the positive wire on your headlight switch. I personally don't like the dimmer, so I just leave it disconnected, but to each his own.
edit: for the back up cam, run the wire to the reverse lights.
I know what it does, it just didn't work when I hooked it up like the adapter kit and stereo install guide made it sound like it should be hooked up but I hooked the other orange wire up and it works fine now. Now it's just getting the fit right when I cut the dash.
I don't want to run a wire all the way to the tail lights just for the back up camera. Word on the interwebs is that there's a wire coming out at the bottom of the steering column I can use for this purpose. I ordered a back up camera for 15 bucks on ebay, hopefully it works out.
Best speakers under $75 for wakeboard speaker pods?
thinking about
http://i.seimg.net/images/799372/big/mx6.jpg
http://i.seimg.net/images/660922/big/11ds60.jpg
http://i.seimg.net/images/608975/big/tsa1684r.jpg
or
http://i.seimg.net/images/513441/big/tdx65.jpg
I would steer clear of all of those brands.
6.5 JBL marine speakers that I have in the bronco are the tits. Get super loud off very little power and do not break up and distort.
Hifonics is good for amps, MB Quart (Also owned by maxxonics) is better for speakers.
Stay away from pioneer and kicker. They sell them at walmart, nuff said there.
And MTX is more concerned with form than function.
JBL all the way.
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-MS6200-6-5.../dp/B0013D210U
I have pioneer in my truck. **** sounds good.
Nothing wrong with pioneer as long as it isn't the crap sold at Walmart. As far as weather/water resistant speakers, as long as it doesn't have a paper cone (cheap speakers) it will be fine. Don't waste a lot of money on rig speakers, you are just going to annoy others on the trail.
Got these speaker pods for christmas. i'm gonna put some pillow stuffing in them.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...psabfa0a5d.jpg
then got these speakers from best buy with some gift card shuffling, and got the amp from work from returning a ****ty broken window motor from my dad's suburban. I got a 4 channel cause i'm gonna mount my old pioneer 6x9's behind the seats
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0165-2.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0169-2.jpg
what are the battery looking things?
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0167-2.jpg