I'm running stock sized spicer everything. I know they dont make hubs anymore but mine are in ok shape so I'm keepin em for now. Probably wont bother with upgrading till I break.
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I'm running stock sized spicer everything. I know they dont make hubs anymore but mine are in ok shape so I'm keepin em for now. Probably wont bother with upgrading till I break.
Kingpins...... Done!!!
In between two tires didn't work... I was almost lifting the blazer in the air and too much flex with the tires.
Right next to me was two perfectly spaced trees, so I used the Craig Knoeller method and stuck the axle between the trees. It also allowed me to put my feet on the garage and push with my legs.
Total time: 15 minutes 10 of which was dicking with the axle between the two trucks.
kickass doug! nice method!
have to give credit to craig!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
onto the hubs... they look exactly like warn hubs I think they'll be fine for the time being.
The stock u-joints look Ok, they are just old, so i'll probably replace them.
Other things to do on the dana 60:
cut old shock mounts off, weld new ones on when the axle is underneath.
finish wire brushing the axle and knuckles
paint
reassemble
I hope to have this done buy the weekend so I can start on the arms on saturday.
Frick, if you're reading this when you finding out about that tube for the steering???
Ahh craig and his trees. You can also use them to straighten pieces on mike's trailer :gigem:
Good job doug!
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Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
I do remember using that big ass post oak for that. Dont worry my dad has about 40,000 trees on our place that he watches. Some of them died some come next winter I gotta help replace the dead ones.
tires?Quote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
I put those autodrive pos's from oreilys in mine never broke one. I put mine is a pretty good bind a few times. Its all in the casting of the u-joint anyway. you may get a good one you may not. Long as some ass did not put the damn thing in the snow while it was cooling you are prob in good shape. (btw our plant in canada was trying to figure out why the cast gears were breaking and then they found out the foundry up there was putting gears in the snow to cool them)Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Are there a lot of power lines in Kingwood?
its says trees stupid hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
they run underground so we have no idea :flipoff2:
Mike why is it that I picture you trying to bite your ear while you type :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
RUFF!
Ok, i apparently need a chevy style yoke for the 60 for some reason, anyone haven one laying around?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I am done with the boards for the night :flipoff2:
doug calling on steering pipe after i get out of my horrible test tomorrow sorry i ahve been studying lots, and i aslo havea spare ford 60 hub if it will work for you , and am gona try to get another, along with two ford spindles dont know if they are the same, from my old summer parts truck, but it is all relative to time on that. i will call you asap when i get a price on the tube.
hey krebs, you just buy this and wheel it. it would be alot easier
http://www.lonestar4x4.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5539
hell no, do you see my signature? I dont' need another large piece of ****! I want to spend about $300 on the blazer which most will work on the buggy too.
what is going on with those wheels? Cut the centers out of chrome steelies and weld them into hummers?
"4500.00, NO TRADES, NO LOWER, BUYER MUST PICK UP FROM CORPUS"
...."4000 someone come pick it up"
Someone could still buy it and remove the body and make a sweet rig out of it. ~dso
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Originally Posted by uglyota
they are custom wheels...you can buy them like that chief... :gigem:
okay but they use the hummer beadlocking stuff :confused2
Yeah, they are recentered Hummer wheels.
Goddam yota people...get with the times. They're like Karl's wheels, only better...and safer...
so I'm still waiting on a list of your carnage from this weekend :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
enough with ya'lls gay rims...
David Oliver style, don't scratch it!
anyone use rotors that are less than perfect?
one of mine is under about .02, but other than that it's fine
the other one is pitted on both sides for about 3" and it's over by .01. Turning them down .01 isn't going to fix the pitting problem.
I guess the only adverse effects would be chewing up the brake pad quicker? Think it would grab?
On the the thing one, does it matter that much? I don't see .02 under being a huge factor in stopping.
this reminds me. one of mine is under spec. the dangers are that they will get too hot or worse case collapse and lock up.
so, for crawling or the occasional slow ride around town would it be ok? I eventually will replace them, but i'm already spening too much on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
ok, time for another raping...
anyone know where you can get the studs for the steering arm cheaper than $7 a piece??? Thats just crazy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
definately ok for that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
partsmike?
what do you think about the pitted one?Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Well I'd imagine the studs are just normal studs somethin about 5/8" fine on one side coarse on the other. If I were in need of such a thing, I'd check a business that specializes in fastener sales. It'd need to be close to home so shipping isn't needed.
Or you can just use bolts like most everyone else.
i dunno about the pitted one. just have it turned 10 thousands and see how it cleans up. try it. if it grabs, going slow, then dont use it. id have to see it before id try to guess.
ive read some reason why bolts are a bad idea but i dont remember why.
I think I'm just going to use grade 8 threaded rod or something better. I found threaded rod on mcmaster that was similar to the arp bolt properties. I can't see spending 50-65 on 8 studs. Nuts will be lug nuts.
Sand blasted the knuckles and brake plates today. Ran a tap down all the holes only to discover one hole on the steering arm side either was too big and tapped, or a stud ripped out. There is no thread until about 1/3 of an inch down. With the all thread I'll be able to go all the way to the bottom.
[QUOTE=Doug Krebs]Nuts will be lug nuts.
QUOTE]
are they the same taper? the cones cant be that much.
lug nuts are what the sky arms come with and I think the taper on the hole is a little more and somewhat shallower than the holes for cones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Is that threaded rod rolled threads?
doesn't that defeat the purpose of cone washers? I thought the point was that they had a split in them and would compress around the stud when the nut was tightened down around them :confused2