Printable View
I got prices yesterday for "third members"Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Randy's $1359
Reider $1450
West Coast Diff $1375
DTS $1432
This is with the Alum. case, daytona alum pinion support, 1350 billit yoke, 35 spline detroit, all set up ready to go.
Lee's axle doesn't have the brakes. Shafts run about $315 for a pair. The big thing is no shipping and no tax...
why are you wanting an aluminum 3rdmember ? From everything I've read about them in my 9" research, I wouldn't use one in an offroad application.
everyone that I have seen uses them and I would consider it better than the cast steel stuff. It's 15 pounds lighter... I have'nt done much research on which 3rd to use though
What does 15 pounds located 14 inches off the ground matter?
every pound counts :gigem:
Well, I would look at a nodular steel case, not a stock cast one. The aluminum cases from what I've heard have a lot of deflection under high torque load causing shorter gear life. This normally is because of a high hp, high torque motor, but going through a couple tcases and running 40" tires probably produces similar results.
those prices really aren't that bad if gears are included. Did you get quotes for ARB instead of detroit?Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
I wouldn't care to loose the pounds that close to the ground. keeping weight there and loosing weight up top to lower CG. plus aluminum doesn't like rocks
nope - not a big fan of themQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
dont get one of these
Whoa ****....that's not good. :eek:
whose TJ is that?
wow that's nasty. any more info?
btw thanks for the late night lockrite install advice, scott! :cheers:
Troy I believe, so all bets are off anyway... ;)
makes sense from everything that I have heard
yep, those stock cast third members suck - I'm not going to use one of those... That was Troys - from Matt driving it in a comp in Truckee CA - where Nick lives...
I ground / sanded my shaved D60 and made a diff cover today
Lee's rear Ford 9 is 62" wide. I could run some 2" wheel adapters and be pretty close to my 67" front - Sounds like my current plan.
finished product before paint and a little fine tuning
Cool. Now come do mine. :D How did you recommend I cut mine off (sans mill)?
Looks cool. I'm curious why you didn't go with the Dana thick diff cover.
weight!! every pounds counts!!! :flipoff2:
looks good. Might want to shave that one bolt a little bit though
I should have bought one of those - it would have been a much better starting point - but I just used what I had. Should be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by AgDieseler
David, I would just cut it out with a cutting wheel or something, seems alot easier.
I changed the bolts to butten heads and that bolt now only needs minimal grinding.
Hope it seals!
Thats what RTV is forQuote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
can you take a picture of it w/ the button head bolts, I wanna see how it looks. I could use to do it on mine cause the bolts are getting rounde off on the bottome
here ya go
7" grinder makes quick work of the lip. About 5 minutes. I think I get about 5/8" off the d60. And a 14 bolt has more to remove. You get a little more with Scott's method, but its more work.
two questions, pollock doesnt your method leave you with a very thin botton of your diff? where as scot has that piece welded back in?
two scott, did you jsut drill out, then weld a washer into the cover for the bottom bolt hole? or what?
I dont know about the D60 but when I shaved my 14 bolt I cut the 1/2" lip off the bottom with a sawzall and rounded it off with a grinder. It is perfectly smooth and round and there is still about 1/2" of material left. Scott, are you worried about the lip of that cover being pulled up? That heppened to mine. I planted the diff on a rock at Gilmer and it dented the bottom of the cover and when I backed off it peeled the lip up a little bit and now it wont seal. The dent isnt bad enough to touch the gear but the leak annoys the hell out of me. I'm going to get one of the great lakes offroad covers when I get around to it. 1/4" solid construction for $110 shipped. Cant beat that.
you got plenty of room in there for expansion and deflection? Maybe you should cut it even closer to control deflection :where's the lightbulb smilie:
i ordered fab fours 60 diff cover... whenever it gets here i am gonna shave my 60 some
Look closer at the pictures. The bottom two inches on the diff - along with the piece that wraps over the ring gear is 3/16" plate. I welded a piece of tube to the 3/16" plate that I used to thicken up the bottom of the cover for the extra bolt. I also added a 1/4" plate that I tapped for a 3/8" bolt to the diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
There should still be plenty of meat in Pollocks method
I'd say there's about as much left as with what scott did. Figure in 20 years or so I'll have to build the bottoms back up. Rocks tend to wear the steel.
Update:
very slow progress...
Frame is bare - all old brackets are ground smooth
axle is painted, need a locker and steering arms.
- I ran into a problem. Since I decided to go to 5:13 gears because of the rear axle I am buying, I need to buy a front locker. You see - I failed to realize that there is a carrier change after 4:10 gears and I didn't look into it until I was attempting to set up the gears...
So - what locker should I get for the front? The rear will be a detroit.
Problem II - The Chevy bearing hubs that I bought from the junkyard mount the rotor about 9/16" further outboard than the Dodge hubs. Are the Chevy rotors 9/16" thinner than my 2-3/4" thick Dodge rotors? Do I need Chevy caliper brackets too? that would suck...
I ordered a Stak 2 speed case, 5.4 gears, flange rear output, 1410 front yoke, e-brake, VSS sensor, and a 1410 front D60 yoke.
About the hubs and rotors, yes... I can't remember the exact difference, look in billavista's dana 60 article. The calipers are the same, but the rotors and backing plate differ I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
arb
What's the problem with the gears? Did you buy the wrong Detroit, or the wrong gears? I think you can use the Detroit for higher gear sets with a thick 5.13 ring gear, but it may be the other way around or something. Either way, you should be able to use any locker with whatever gears you bought.
I agree. I'm getting pretty sick of the front plowing that mine does. It's a ***** to drive on tight trails. For as little as I drive it, I'm not pissed enough to drop $3k replacing it all. But it gets old fast, weaving through the trees.
thats why i just use front wheel drive and use the cutting brakes on tight trails. welded does suck at some points but not on the price.......
I have a welded 4:10 carrier - I will order a detroit today...Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
Of course, Pirate's down right now...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I need to find some Chevy rotors and measure them - anyone? O-Reily has to order them...