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that place is 250+ miles from College Station. 500 miles RT. If he drives the 4runner @ 19 mpg that's $71 in fuel plus a whole day driving. not worth driving there IMO. Just call them up and ask if they will come off the price some b/c you are a texas customer and you have to pay tax. if they balk, buy it somewhere else.
okay, since I have today off, but can't go to 47 this afternoon (medical reasons), I decided to take a little time and mess around with the 4runner this morning. I confirmed that it had been hit in the rear. I kinda figured something like this had happened since it had that wierd chrome bumper on back. The rear frame rails past the shackle are a little messed up, but the damage isn't to bad. It does present a small problem, as it common to move the rear hangers back to mount longer springs. It can still be done, but will take more work. Or I may try to stick to my plan of linking the rear. I want to do that anyway, but have been leary of the cost and how it will handle on the street
I also began stripping the interior, and I think I can reuse my stock sliders with some aftermarket seats. In my old truck I just used some tubing to mount to, but this was alot of work, and couldn't be adjusted. I hope to order the new seats this week.
I'm also trying to figure out if I should go with a internal cage, or a exo. I don't really care for how exos look, plus they hurt gas mileage. But a internal cage takes up alot of room in a already cramped cab
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
They built my custom 24 gallon gas tank for my bronco. It was pretty nice.
son of a ...Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
John you sold them my idea, didn't you, you barstid!
haha, I had this same idea for a while now (its just so simple), and was surprised to see someone selling it, especially for what they want for the one in the picture (they want like 300 bucks for those things). They gotta be nuts
if eric can build them, anyone can
maybe someday I'll become a fabbing badass like you and be able to put a chevy drivetrain in a scout :rolleyes:
oh, I see you "wheeled" yesterday...that explains it
crap. i forgot the flipoff dude and eric got mad. you need to spend more time on here, you're getting soft.
well, the taco sold today for cash. So I took some of the money left after paying it off and bought a D60. Now its time to start collecting the rest of the stuff I'll need. I'm aiming to do the SAS during the christmas holidays, though there is always the chance I may try to do it sooner
Good, we can practice on yours before we get around to mine.
you can help if you want, but since I won't get around to it until around christmas, I'm gonna leave my tools at my parents house. It just easier than hauling them back and forth, especially since my parts pile and everything else is there. That cool?
Man, you're killing me.
I was all prepared to have a welder in the garage, but I guess that's cool. Any chance of getting that welder up here when its my time under the knife?
probaly so, but I thought you weren't planning on doing yours for a long time?
Yea, I wasn't, but I think I've decided to stay stateside post-graduation, so I'm slowing getting back on the ball with collecting pieces and whatnot. All I'm lacking now is steering, suspension, and some steel.
well when do you think you would want to do it? I just figured leaving stuff at my parents worked well for me because of the weird schedule I have (they're in the country, so I can work early in the morning, or really late at night if I want). Plus, if something doesn't go as planned, I can always steal my dads tacoma for a few days until I can get back to working on the 4runner
It's cool if you want to keep the tools at your parent's place, whatever works best for you. I'm not too sure of a timeline for the swap for me yet. It's still some time off, earliest would probably be near the end of the winter break.
Where do your parents live?
if you were smart you would offer to keep his tools in your garage
pay more attention
that was the original plan, but I decided to keep my tools at home at least until the end of semester, since I never seem to have any free time anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
And garrett, my parents live about an hour from here. I still may bring the tools up during the christmas break, or even at the end of it when I'm done with the hard stuff. Its just I got to thinking about how hard it can be to work together on schedules in order to get a chance to go out there and work when you're around, and how if something goes wrong I may be forced to leave the runner until I can fix it. With my parents place, I can work no matter what time or day it is, and I can always steal my dads truck in case of an emergency. Plus I have ways of handling the big stuff like axles and so forth at my parents. I just figure it will be much easier and faster to do the SAS and related stuff at home, then worry about bringing the tools up here later
Okay, update time. The taco is gone, so its time to start really collecting parts. The D60 should be here by the end of the week. Still gotta find the time to go hunt down a D70 for the rear.
As for the D60, I went with a dodge one with drive flanges. I'm gonna grab some superwinch hubs for use on mild wheeling, and on the street, and swap back to the flanges for the harder stuff. Both diffs will be welded, hence the need for the locking hubs in the front. Driveshafts will be toy, and with a CV in the rear. I have enough parts now to build spares for both the front and rear. I'll be using high angle flanges instead of yokes on the axle ends
One side effect of the dodge D60 is the fact its already fairly narrow (67.5 WMS), so I'm gonna skip the H2 idea, and just get 16 inch steelies with less backspacing and run the 38x14.5 toyos. I love the H2s, but I think it'll just be to narrow, and the steel wheels and 38s will cost the exact same as h2 wheels and 37s.
Next comes steering. I'm getting a steering arm for low crossover from krebs. I guess I'm gonna run TREs since they last longer. Anyone got a cheap source for weld in 7/8"-18 tpi tube adapters? Ballistic Fab has them for around 10 bucks a piece. Anyone know about what the max OD my tie rod can be before I have to worry about it hitting the diff cover in the stock position? And should I just weld some 1/4" strap onto the stock diff covers, or get something stronger? MAD4WD has a pretty good deal on rockcrusher covers going on right now. Around 60 bucks a piece for the ones I need
I'm also gonna run hydro assist. I'm gonna use this ram http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic , cut the crosstube off the cylinder end, weld a piece of threaded tube to it, and use a hiem on it. Total price for the ram, hose, fittings, hiem, threaded tube, and hardware will be about 130 bucks
For the supension, the front will be custom leaf spring packs based off my current rear springs, a custom drop hanger, and outboarded shackles. The rear is still not decided on. I wanted to run BBCS shocks, but they are currently back ordered, but polyperformance is running a special on fox shocks, so I may see if I can get them for a similar price
I'm also gonna skip the D300 idea and just run dual toy cases
finally, I think I conned the GF into sewing me the soft top idea I had. The material is sunbrella, and its pretty cheap. All I would need is to build a simple frame for it, add the snaps, then get her to sew it up for me. She likes to sew and crochet, and has a big sewing machine, so hopefully that will make it pretty easy. The only thing I still need to find is what the soft clear plastic they use on softops is made of. Anyone know? I'm guessing I'll find it at a boat shop.
As far as the diff cover goes I would look at the Great Lakes offroad covers. They are the ones you see on ebay with the front end loader sitting on them. I shopped around alot before I got my cover and there's was not the thickest or cheapest but it was the best combination of the two. It is 1/4" plate steel (not cast) with a 3/8" flange and was $110 shipped to my door. You should be able to clear a 1 1/2" tierod, maybe even 2" depending on the cover you get.
ruffstuffspecialties.com for diff covers. search for gravelmaker on pirate.
I have a 3/8" thick plate on my diff cover. Tie rod is 1.666" OD. They hit. But I think the tie rod is a little bent, should be. I'm gonna turn it over so it's bent away from the cover.
okay, I've got the D70 for the rear, but its a dually, so where do I find disc brake brackets for it?
**** discs. Really, what good are they for? Maybe if you're in mud alot. Other than that they're just a pain.
more holding power and easier to change pads.
read somewhere that drums were better than discs in the rear. i'll agree that if gravel gets in the drums (47) then you have to take the drum off and clean the shoes, but other than that, meh
Well my dodge still has original shoes on el d70 and his toyoda will be dead long before it gets that many more miles. Or if it does last that long it'll be kinda a milestone achievement and cause for celebration. You don't think 1 ton drums will lock up 38s? Just one 3/4 ton drum will lock up 2 38s.
My 1/2 ton 8.8" drums have held up just fine with my 38"s.
blah, why a dana 70? I'd get a 14 bolt just for the cheapness of the detroit. I can't imagine wanting to daily drive a welded rear. You become soft after driving something nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
I always hated the drums when we used to go in rivers. Most of the drums on the older full floaters are pressed in with the lugstuds. Getting the rocks out meant pulling the whole axle shaft and the hub.
I went with the D70 for several reasons
1. lower gear available (important for spinning 38s with the 4cyl)
2. there is no flange available for using a toy driveshaft on the 14 bolt
3. I planned on welding it anyway, and 14 bolt detriots are really not that much cheaper
4. 35 spline shafts factory
6. it only cost me 50 bucks, so why not?
i never thought of just running drums. How much does it cost to rebuild a set of drums? Everyone always seems to upgrade away from drums as quick as possible and it would shed some weight. Also, because this is a dually would I have to worry about the drums sticking out of the wheel so far they would get smacked on rocks all the time?
rebuilding drums is not expensive or hard, i think the shoes are usually around 15-30 bucks, and a hardware kit which is usually needed is 10 or less. So add in getting the drums turned if they need it and you can rebuild the drum brakes for prolly- 60 bucks or so.
drums it is then.
this place is boring, so I'm gonna add some tech.
Need some bushings for something like spring hangers, suspension links, or other various projects, but don't want to pay 10+ dollars a piece that most places charge for them? Then here you go.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Just use a piece of 1.75x.120 DOM, or 1.5 Sch 80, and you'll have enough to do 6 sets of bushings with either of these. On the jeep one, it comes with two 1/2 sleeves, and two 9/16 sleeves, or you can use 3/4 inch bolts if you don't want to use the sleeves. Anyone know what size sleeves the chevy ones use?
One note on the second ones, only the procomp bushings use the same size bushings all around. If you order a different brand or part number, two of the six sets will be smaller
this is not a good idea, the sleeve is there so u can tighten the bolt down on the bushing without crushing it and u also need unthreaded surface for the bushing to have something smooth to rotate on. They don't last very long with no sleeve either , ask me how I know? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
oh, I know to use the sleeve, but in some cases someone may not want or need to, and would like to know the ID of the bushing, so I threw that in there