I've got a hand operated parking brake and a cable. I havent gotten around to looking at how they will connect. I'm sure it will involve a custom bracket at the caliper.
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I've got a hand operated parking brake and a cable. I havent gotten around to looking at how they will connect. I'm sure it will involve a custom bracket at the caliper.
Once you get it set up I may come take a gander. Is the hand brake an aftermarket one? I know Lokar makes one but I've never seen one in person so I dont know how the cable is set up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
No, i got this one out of Brandon's VW whatever before I dropped it off at the junkyard.
I think I remember seeing the Lokar brake in one of Scott's pics.
Thats the same way cruisers t-case ebrake works if you need something to look at to get an idea from. Small handle under the dash that you pull out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
Got any pics?
just like the willys and kaiser era jeeps. maybe you can get a handle from brent mullins
http://www.science.smith.edu/~ejense...y1/day1-13.jpg
you should help davido set his up he as one that isn't connected either
I think I might, if not I can probably find some.
I was thinking of running one of those for my bronco. I want to keep the floor board clean as I can. 1981 ford couier had them too. Dont some of the older toyota trucks have them?Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
toyoty trucks have them, I guess 4 runners too, underneath the dash on the right side of the steering wheel.
Toyota still used that ebrake configuration, I believe. Have the same thing in my 98.
old mazda's have it too.
This is what Troy and I did after cracking a cast oil pan. He is still running it today...
http://offroadrepublic.com/gallery2/...2_itemId=46817
I want to say I even had one in my 05 tacoma, so they should be real easy to find. If I remember correctly the end of the cable attaches to the handle with a pin, so you can just unbolt the handle and unpin the cable and its out of the truck. Then just rig up a new cable system to match your needs and pin it to the handleQuote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
found this schematic for you
A yota one would be perfect
I'll snap a picture of mine tonight, looks a little different than that schematic, but it should be something you could find easily in a yard.
I was referring to how the cable connects to the e-brake. I thought you meant cruisers used t-case e-brakes. I'm happy with the hand lever I have, I think.
oh, gotcha, I'll see what I can hunt up. If I can't find any, I have a spare case sitting at home with the parking brake on it. I'll get my dad to get some pics this weekend.
Although, the dash mounted lever would open up some room on the floor between the seats. hmm....
One more of the skid. This is another reason I wanted the f-body pan. It still may need a little trimming for the oil filter.
Sweet project John. Perhaps a ramp built in to the drain plug notch would also be a good idea...keep the drips from makin a mess in the skid plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I definately thought of that. After looking at it, it would get too close to the pan. I'm afraid it would deflect up into the pan under load. Besides, I think the biggest part of the mess will be from the filter when it comes off. I've got some other ideas I'm going to try. Something to contain the mess and make it easy to clean out. Yes, Jimmy, it may involve speedholes.
Put a twist lock thingy that you can attach a hose to like an airplane/boat. Then when you smash it on a rock, it'll empty the contents of your oilpan all over the trail. It'll be like a James Bond car except different.
can you do a filter relocation kit on it
Hmm, I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.
does this mean its already done and you are sitting on another picture? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Built a rear anti-wrap/traction/ladder bar. I used a Roughstuff kit at the axle end and two Johnny Joints at the frame end. I still havent decided what kind of bracing I want to put in the middle though. I don't remember what the anti-squat numbers were, but they suck. Just a fact you have to live with when doing one of these. The tube is 1.75"x.120" wall.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...1&d=1177393385
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...2&d=1177393385
Since I built the ladder bar to use long shackles, I needed more clearance than the stock floor allowed. I also needed more room for the front and rear driveshafts and exhaust, so I cut a little more out of the floor.
Then I mocked it up, framed it up, and built it. It's .063" sheet and some 1" flat bar and angle iron.
I had been dissappointed that I didn't find a Ford driver's side drop front axle until I got this done. It would have seriously hampered driver's foot room to do a mirror image of this thing, but it's not too bad as a passenger without a pedal to reach.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...4&d=1177394031
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...5&d=1177394031
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...6&d=1177394031
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...7&d=1177394031
Blingin!
holy crap! did you weld that all the way down or is there a brake in there? Still not sure what my plans are yet, might have to use some of this design...
It's 11 separate peices with 7 small "breaks" I did with a torch and the edge of my table. It was much easier to cut the sides into smaller peices and fit them to the floor rather than try to fit it all the way down at once. All of the breaks are yellow in this pic. Everything else is welded.
You didn't want to make the trans tunnel removable for ease of transmission-engine bolting?
The Jeep is looking awesome! :)
The only bolts you need to get to are the top adapter bolts and they are easily accessible through the cover.
Ah, you mean the bellhousing bolts. There is enough room between the firewall and engine to get to them.
can you get to your front driveshaft bolts without dropping the skid?
It'll need more trimming. I left extra on it since I don't have a driveshaft to test fit. I plan to try to get it trimmed back far enough to be able to reach them.
Not running a body lift is not the easiest way to do this project, but it makes it more fun. The YJ frame is higher in the front than a CJ frame and a YJ grill is shorter heightwise than a CJ grill. This makes the CJ grill sit higher than the front than a YJ grill and the hood rises as it goes forward and does not follow the body lines. In order to get the hood to sit level, the CJ grill has to be set lower. There are two ways to do this. One is to notch the corners out of the CJ grill and set it down between the framerails, but I think that would look pretty crappy. So, I sectioned 1.75" out of the grill.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...3&d=1177610808
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...4&d=1177610808
looks pretty good