Ballistic just started selling their ID tube clamps.
http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartst...p_21-1467.html
Cheaper than the camburgs, but still $35 a pop. Just another idea for your cage work decisions.
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Ballistic just started selling their ID tube clamps.
http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartst...p_21-1467.html
Cheaper than the camburgs, but still $35 a pop. Just another idea for your cage work decisions.
yeah, I've seen those at polyperformance I think. Its an option, but well out of my price range at this point
I just found this, and figured I would throw this in since this is another approach to the cage ideas we've been discussing here
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/tacoma/taco75.JPG
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/tacoma/taco77.JPG
Its the ballistic fab shop rig
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=558164
and if I ever narrow the front flip, I'm gonna use a taco grill. Thier's looks sweet
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/.../tacofront.JPG
interesting front axle
yeah, I hadn't seen one like it yet. Most of the fabricated housings I've seen had round tubes that were welded as a intregral part of the diff area. This one almost looks like it was fabricated, then had the tubes pressed inQuote:
Originally Posted by colman
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Yea, I meant to link that a while ago. I like the frontend and the mounts for the cage were unique.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Maybe just trying to be different since diamonds are patented?
well it might be cheaper for someone building an axle to go that route, since they can source thier own tubes, and shipping would be alot cheaper
Before I reassemble the rear axle (it needs to be pulled out of the shop to make room to get the shafts back in), I'd like to weld up the diff. Now I just had it regeared, and it hasn't been broken in yet. Is there any reason I couldn't pull the carrier and ring gear, weld them up, then reinstall them? Would this throw the pattern off or anything like that?
if you get it to hot yes, as far as welding it. i do not know about the gear break in. I have always pulled the ring gear off when welding diffs.
Feck all that just weld them in place. Keep your ground close to your weld so you dont arc a bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Would removing the ring gear throw things off if I put it back on the same way it came off? Since there are no shims or anything, I would guess it would be the same, right? If nothing else it seems I'd leave the ring gear off, and spray some antisplatter stuff on it and be careful. As for overheating it, do most people reset the gears after welding the diff? I didn't think most did, so I figured it would be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I'd do it like that, but most likely I'm going to need to weld it someplace around here versus at home, and don't feel like pulling the entire axle for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
ive done both. i welded my rear carrier in place. just blacken the ring gear with a torch burning acetylene only and ground on the carrier. ive pulled a few ring gears off to put in lunch box lockers and reinstalled with no problems. just be sure to mark the ring and carrier so they go back together the same way. if you are stick welding i would definately pull the carrier. i didnt and it took forever to get all of the slag out of the housing.