I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD
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I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD
John see the 4 sale section I replied to you.
NevermindQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
I'm tired of chasing them. They are out there but it seems like every time I find one, I can't get to it fast enough and it's sold. I eventually want to swap to a 460, so I'll just do a 5 speed swap then.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Anybody know if anything else would be required for a rebuild if I got this kit?
http://racerxusa.com//product_info.p...products_id=55
I'm also going to add a bigger cooler with new lines that sits in front of the radiator, an external cooler and a transmission temp gauge.
I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.
If you wanted it done right you should have had one shop do the whole thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Well I guess I didn't want it done right, because I didn't use any specialized tools.
http://towrigsandtrailers.com/forum/...read.php?t=131
I'm thinking about going this route for disk brakes. Seems like it shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to start with a chevy caliper and print the diagram out and resize it so the holes are in the right place then the scale should be good.
Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.
I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.
I'm not using eldorado calipers, I've read too much about them leaking a lot. It'll probably cost less than 200 for this, maybe 250. I've also read and heard, that disk brakes are the best way to go on a sterling.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.
My Sterling drums sucked and getting them wet or muddy made them not last long. Rear discs and the 1 ton booster was one of the best mods I have done. I bought the kit and am pretty sure I didnt spend near $500. Havent touched them since.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
On the flip side, Cook still has drums and says he has had few problems.
E-brake is going to be your issue.
The klogger has a sterling, it sees a lot of water/mud. It does not have the auto adjust stuff in it anymore. Every trip I go turn the starwheel with a screw driver and have no issues. I have had the same pads on there for about 3 years. (granted this equates to 200 miles of driving....)
I'll get it inspected with the 8.8 then I have a year if I do it on time to figure out an e-brake. I have a line lock sitting in my tool box, I know you aren't supposed to use them for long periods, but would it suffice for an inspection or do you have to have a mechanical e-brake?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe