thats a little shorter than what I need
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thats a little shorter than what I need
Back to cage design again. The first two pictures below are of a exo cage design I really like. I like how the main hoop (B pillar) is actually not a hoop like most people do, but several pieces connecting in node. This seems alot more easy to do then a hoop with 5+ bends, and hopefully fewer chances to **** up what tube I have.
What I intend to do is build the main hoop of the cage as a series of straight tubes connecting at a series of nodes. This should work whether I go with a internal cage, full exo, or hybrid. In the third picture is a drawing of what I intend to do. The green circles show where the nodes will be. The main tube for the top section will be the halo hoop running towards the front of the cab. All the other tubes will be connected to this. For the lower section, the tube running horizontally behind the seats will be the main tube, with everything mating to it. I will of course cap off any open tubes, and may stick a small piece of 1.5 inch tubing inside the main tube supporting the node, just to add a little more strength.
Like I said, I think this will be easier multiple bends, and allow me to get the cage closer to the body then a series of bends would. Other than looks perhaps, would there be any reasons that this would be a bad idea?
dude those nodes look like ass. Don't be scared to put multiple bends in a piece of tube, it's not that hard to get right, and it all looks crooked in pictures
here ya go...
200ft of 1.75"
http://www.fcfabrication.com/thumbnail.JPG
Holy **** how much weight did that add?
i'm going to exo my cab like that probably
not much, i used 6 sticks in my cage that i just finished which is 144ft, ide say each stick is 50#'s, so im guessing 200ft would add 400-450#'sQuote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
1.75 .120 wall tube weighs around 2.1 lb/ft according to this handy dandy materials book I have, so 420 lbs + however many pounds of weld and gussets.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
ok.... thanks for clearing it upQuote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Well aren't you just handy to keep around. Now shut up and get back to work on that SAS :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
the ones in the drawings do, but I like the way that cage looks. The guy who built that used that design on most of his cages, and I like the way all of them have turned out. As for the nodes behind the seats, you will never even notice those are there since then are hidden inside the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
damn thats alot of tube. I do like how the rear is tied together with the tire carrier. I can't decide whether I should worry about carrying a fullsize spare. They're nice to have, but add alot of weightQuote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
I like exact numbers, not your estimated bull****, wigger!Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Finally after another month I got to work on the 4runner again. I pulled the front axle back out to regear it and clean it up some. I also removed the body lift, dropping the 4runner 2 inches. Since I was pressed for time, I dropped the t-case mount down to the stock position, but after looking at how low it hangs, I think I'm going to pull my seats, cut out the floor and raise them back up. I also tried to relocate the steering box, but I'm going to have to molest some sheetmetal for that to happen. I would have tried doing this today, but my sawzall is on the fritz and I didn't have any thing else to cut with.
I do have a problem though. How do I get a carrier out of the axle? I wanted to pull my rear carrier so I could weld it up. I pulled the bearing caps, and there are no axle shafts in the housing, but the carrier will not come out, no matter how much I tried to pry it out. Am I missing something, or is there a trick to it?