'93 F-150 build

Well, it's full, and I don't have any extra parts.

A couple of tips for anybody rebuilding one of these;
Buy the ASTM manual
Make friends with somebody who has the special tools needed for this transmission, it's doable without the tools, but it's probably way easier with them
If the pump won't seat into the case, loosen the bolts holding the pump together, take the seals off of the pump and set it in there, pick it up making sure the 2 halves don't move and tighten the bolts then set it in there again to make sure it seats and then put the seals on and seat it in the case for the last time
Don't rebuild it in your second story apartment
Take pictures of where all the check balls are before you let them all fall out
Don't let anybody tell you it's too hard
When a part has UP on it, it doesn't mean how it would sit when in the truck

Here's 2 write ups with pictures to aid your ASTM manual.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/index.htm
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...3-E4OD-rebuild

I might put it in Saturday but I still have to run some new lines to the cooler and figure out how to mount my temp sensor.

Good deal.:gigem:

on your disc brake axle thing why don't you go buy a late model factory disc brake axle. probably alot cheaper than gettign a drive line brake and a disc conversion....

Metric sucks

find a dodge or chevy axle then

Don't have the speed sensor in it. I'm really not worried about it. It's not a big deal.

Cool, good luck on the trans once its installed!!

The transmission and either a 4 or 6 inch (probably 4) lift will go in this weekend. Next on the list is getting the sterling in and converting the front to 8 lug so I don't need 2 spares. My current driveshaft setup has a slip at the transfer case and a flange at the rear end. The sterling has a 1350 yoke on it so I need a way to get my driveshaft onto the sterling. I can either take the flange off and use a conversion u joint or put a new 1350 tube yoke on the driveshaft and just a regular 1350 u joint on it. Thoughts? The interwebs says there's a few 8 lug 44s at the various junkyards around town so I'm going to get me some parts maybe next week.

Edit: I don't want to do new driveshafts until I get a transfer case with a flange on it, maybe a 1356-1356 doubler

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

Did you check my pile of drive shafts? There should be a few from 1-ton fords

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

---

I read about the weird 1330F u joints that were used, I'm going to go measure the yoke before I order a conversion joint. I don't have another t-case for a doubler, I need to find me one with a yoke or a flange on the back.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BroncoJo

Did you check my pile of drive shafts? There should be a few from 1-ton fords

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Not yet, I'll look.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

---

Do you happen to know the part number? Spicer doesn't list anything that crosses to 1330F (or 1330spec as they call it), just 1330.

Stolen from the internet, so double check it, if I was at home I could look on the box I have:

To clarify:
joint width dia
1310 3.219 1.062
1330 3.625 1.062
1330f 3.625 1.125
1350 3.625 1.188

I have found
5-1204X = 1330/1330f
5-1203X = 1310/1330f

The F is sometimes replaced with sp.

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1330...u-joint-2.aspx

16 bucks for a conversion u joint is way less than I thought

Thanks.

I didn't see it before in the parts identification cause I didn't look hard enough.:D
http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~3~

The 5-1204x (aka 5-792x; both cross to precision 434) is the 1310/1330F crossover. Is this what you're using?

According to the identification the 5-1203x is just a plain 1330 joint.:confused2

On a related note, I just realized I've been running the wrong ujoint on my ford 9".:laughing:



edit: got it wrong. 5-1204x is a standard 1330 (3.625 cross 1.062 cap) to 1330F (3.625 cross 1.125 cap) joint.