That;s pre-planning!
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That;s pre-planning!
i used those fittings and they killed a pump. best guess is the id is smaller than stock ps lines. good luck with that
I hope not cause this pump is $$. Those are the ram lines, what is the alternative to those?
when I had mine made I had to go to a special shop in Austin that cut my old fittings off and then somehow attached the cut off end to a hydrolic hose fitting so that the hose between the two ends can be replaced with regular hydrolic hose fittings.. but the ends had to be the original ends or else it didnt hook up right to the pump and gearbox. If that makes sense. I was going from power steering pump on chevy engine to toyota gearbox
Those fitting look like a smaller OD than the psc AN fittings on mine. . . . .
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post280632
Sounds like they hillbilly brazed some **** together. Hydraulic fittings are suprisingly simple, just ask Flem :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjuch
A set of those fittings came with my setup. The I.D is the same. It's all just 5/16 JIC, the only difference is mine are crimped rather than reusable. 5/16 JIC is 5/16 JIC. In fact JIC and AN are the same thing. JIC and AN are 37* flare.
There is also SAE, which comes in 37* and 45*, however the 45* are used for low pressure systems.....you kind of have to be careful of what you buy.
yup, it's the paperwork thats a mother****erQuote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
tummy, they aren't the same.
I just had napa crimp some of there fittings on. No problems at all. Had several problems with the PSC reusable stuff
**** you, you dont know what you're talking about!Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I blame this thread for my ignorance.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=597301
Good thing I got all of the pieces then, They're all 5/16 JIC
Now I have to figure out pump to box.
there is a radius at the root of AN fittings to prevent stress points. On small dash sizes the tolerances of the an fitting can overlap the tolerances of jic fittings and the parts could conform to both. at nominal sizes they don't.
ram lines are prob fine. i had a ps hose chopped and a bigger id crimped on the box side. or something like that. its been a few years. bigger id is better for the pump. course i'm running a turned up stock pump.
flem does work for a company that just makes fluid lines.
also, i'd loose the rag joint.
Thanks.
I wasn't doubting Flem, i had some inaccurate info from pirate.
The pressure line for the 79 bronco box is inverted flare so they had to braze the hardline onto a fitting.
The I.D of the 5/16 JIC is bigger than the stock ps line size.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0127-1.jpg
cut out some tabs. I need to add some internal stops to the ram because the tie rod only travels 6 7/8". I'll just rock it for now and knowing it's there.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0130-1.jpg
Tie rod tabs
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0131-1.jpg
axle tabs
I've always been under the impression that with HA, the steering box will not keep putting pressure on the cylinder/ram when it maxes out side to side negating the need for steering stops. The orbitals in full hydro are another story.
I thought the stops go inside the ram
IdeallyQuote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
so why couldn't one go inside this ram?
It could, im sure it was done that way due to time constraintsQuote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
Travis and I made up this bracket. It's really tight under there.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0149-1.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0152-2.jpg
here's how psc says to mount it.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/media/...sist_kit_1.jpg
so you did the complete opposite?
That uses diff cover bolts and my ram is bigger than that.
thats a 2011 truck! must be a bad bitch to need hydro assistQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Or it could just be owned by one of your diesel douche friends :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent
first you need a longer bolt for the axle side mount
second, is the 'stop' secured in any way, so it cant slide up and down the shaft, if not i bet you will get a gouge in the shaft and then start leaking fluid
Stop will be securedQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
The mount is not perfect, but should work for TCC, and it will be called the "plate-30" ram kit.
any idea of how you are going to secure the stop?
also the mount doesnt look that bad, but you may need one of those ram skid plates like jb has/had
That bolt is 2 threads on for mock up....stop is held on by the heim.
Od of the rod end is smaller than of of the RAM.
100% bolt on. gay.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
even though you have a janky stop, i'd still be weary of turning the wheel too far. i.e. pay attention to when it binds.
I bet Coleman is referring to the threads being in shear.
I had my ram mounted as low as Tommy does and even with the little skid coming off the t-rod, it only lasted 2 runs. THen I went high-steer. Tommy wheels like a bitch though, so it should be fine.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
this, also when you get a new bolt drop the bolt in from the top as some insurance incase you loose the nutQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
lets see your **** look as clean as that.Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
Went to vilas' and they're making me one.
With the track bar bracket where it is i can't put a bolt in from the top.
Went to vilas' and they're making me a new steering stop.
With the track bar bracket where it is i can't put a bolt in from the top.
It's a brand new truck, if it didn't look clean he should be subjected to driving a hybrid. Anybody can bolt **** on, actually building something takes skill and effort. That's why (except for the one with ttb) jeeps are gay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent