Hopefully tonight. I"ll txt you or your bro.
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I get perdiem for being over 60miles from home, but between the apt, renters insurances, apt cable, apt bills, truck breakins, gas, gas, and more gas, it doesn't always cover it.
Just frusterated right now. Had to drop it off for a couple days after the break in, alternator died at 165k in Bastrop, and the recent trans issues. I know it always soulds like something is wrong with it, but it has been a great truck to me it has been worked and played hard. A new crewcab 4x4 6.5' bed, loaded XLT F150 would run me 34k if financed through Ford. Not horrible, but I do not want another payment. I was out of debt when I bought my house, now have run that up a couple Gs on house stuff etc, which isn't bad.
Tossed arond the idea of a Tacoma, which would get me a little better mileage, yet still be a truck that I could use for Home Depot runs at work. Found an 01 4x4 manual xtra cab with 57k, 3.4L for 10k in Houston, but I think someone snagged it. Put all the miles on that and use the F150 for the 4-6 times a year towing plus my annual Colorado trip.
Really just am not that comfortable in a small car. Maybe b/c I am tall, or maybe I just havent driven the right one yet.
As far a diesels go, 01-03 7.3s all have too many miles on them and are still overpriced IMO. 03-5 6.0 are apparently no good. I contemplated 06-07s but prices are pretty high. I don't really want a 100k+ mile truck, not b/c of the miles on the motor, but b/c of the miles on everything else.
I dunno, just thinking right now.
My 91 chevy 3/4 ton had manual transmission, windows and locks, but it also had cruise control that worked perfectly
I am really not a brand loyalist, but nothing else really appeals to me. GMs just look too plasticy and generic, and Dodges are Dodges. I am sure others say the same about Ford though. It is just a personal preference, I think the Fords look better and drive better.
I've talked to quite a few really tall people who liked mini coopers, strangely enough. And some true car enthusiasts who really loved them. I also have a buddy who's bigger/taller than you who just bought one of those silly sol things with the hamsters in the commercial. Little cars for big people are out there...might be worth your while to do some shopping.
I really like F150's for 1/2 ton trucks the best. dont like superdutys though... am a fan of GM in 3/4 but too much money... not a huge fan of dodge but the price was the best for what you get... that is why i drive a dodge
my truck had cc, i tried putting it back in and it don't work............had my hopes up though ***
Check out Audi. The A4 is really nice if you're looking for a sedan. Plenty of room on the inside, lots of power. Hell of a lot of fun to drive... You'll be taking hairpin turns at 40 over the speed limit and won't notice a thing. My mom has an A6, and it is one of the nicest cars I've ever had the pleasure to drive. The germans really know how to do it right.
Just my .01
If you don't see yourself having to dump a bunch of money on replacing worn parts on the F150 in the near future you might be better off just keeping it as a tow rig like you said. Find a decent commuter vehicle and save money.
that almost never works. I ran the numbers on this a while back and found that I'd have to get a sub $2000 vehicle that gets over 30mpg and drive it everyday for 2 years before any money is saved. That left me with the options of either an early 90's ford fiesta or a happytime bicycle.
My trans is acting wierd. It has been through 3 engines without a rebuild and alot of heat.
1. should i rebuild it
2. should i buy a new one and if so where are they the cheapest?
Its a c-6
spend every cent in your bank account and then get a student loan to cover the rest. throwing expensive parts at a problem always solves the issue
Might I suggest one of the New-er V6 pony cars as a commuter? My sister has had one of the new Challengers as well as a new Mustang and I fit into both just fine with room to spare. Gas mileage isn't awesome but sure as hell isn't bad. Also, my cousin has a 2001 Taco with the 4 popper and has literally beat the living hell out of it for probably 80,000 miles (on top of the original 100,000) and no problems so far.
I would have to have at least 30 mpg, pref 40 plus (think VW TDI), if I ever had a "commuter car"
it was slipping between 2nd and 3rd until soggy bottom and now it is slipping between 1st and second too.
It only does it when it gets warm. I think it has a cooling issue, i have gotten it pretty hot a couple of times.
what does the fluid color look like and what does it smell like. ( kinda want to tell you to taste it to but that is just mean)
I've learned to filter what you say:flipoff2:
It doesn't smell burnt and it is clearish dark red
1. Anyone have any experience or hear good or bad with using the cheaper master install kits for differentials. I believe the bearing name is koyo. I need to buy one full install kit and the price difference is crazy. I've found 77 for the Chinese stuff and 140 for timken. This will be for the bastard so it's not going to be seeing highway miles.
2. How many of you that are running 60 fronts have broken stock inners? How many of those that broke them grenades the spindle. I think I know the answer to this is most and that I need to pony up for the 35spl outers the first time especially with 42's and a heavy foot.
3. I'm ordering new perches for my rear 60, and plan on getting the rear perches that allow for moving the rear axle back 1". I'm thinking of slapping a 1" zero rate on top of this to get it moved back 2" total. Good idea or not? If not explain why?
Mayfield get additional cooler maybe even one with a e-fan on it.
Do you plan on keeping this truck for any length of time? If so I would go ahead and make sure you put the good bearings in it. (I have no experience w/ the koyo brand though)
Def. get the 35 spl outers as fast as you can afford them. I was breaking u-joints before the shafts were giving way. The u-joints grenading took out the ears on the shafts though, so that is something to think about too.
That will not work, the zero rate will be hanging halfway off the spring perch. Make your own perches that are a little longer and put the hole wherever you want it.
For the record I will be rocking 42s with 30 spline outers and twice as much power as you :flipoff2:
No.
What do you need from the master install kit? If your old bearings are good and you can get them off without damage, reuse them. If they're bad, new ones are about $10 each at O'Rielley. Bearings are only going to go bad if you've got bad or no oil. There are many more shims than you will need in the box with your setup bearings, which is somewhere in one of my garages.
Are you installing new gears, maybe i missed a post? Or are you just rebuilding an axle? if installing gears go with the kit, it makes life easier as you know with the broncos. Otherwise just get the bearings from the parts store, but ide still go with timken either way
I'm installing new gears. My gears came with one set of bearings from the previous owner that are new and i will need to one install kit to do the other axle.
koyos are legit
then go with the install kit
koyo does seem like the real deal
http://www.koyousa.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=522
Timken is made at various foreign factories. Mexico, China, India, Poland, etc. No major brand of bearings is domestic anymore.
Clarke the question wasn't to go or not go with the kit, it was to go with koyos or timken.
i say timken because because thats all i know or use, otherwise i have no preference
Definitely sounds like a cooling issue. I used to run a universal TCI cooler in front of my radiator/electric fan but it wasn't enough. The th350 started to slip on steep climbs and I burnt up the clutches in a sand drag. Now I have a big B&M cooler with its own electric fan and have had no issues since.
I would be a little skeptical about the current condition of the bands, clutches, and pump in your c6 after getting it hot and slipping it. Even if you put a good cooling system on it now the damage might have already been done.
1. I would just go with the cheap one, like you said it's not going to see high speed.
2. I've had 38"s and now 40"s with stock 60 shafts no problems. Broke a selector on a mile-marker hub but that's it.
3. I bought some perches from Ballistic or BTF (can't remember) but they were long enough for me to drill them out 2"s forward to push the d70 back a little more.
Would it be possible to install a fuel injection system on my dakota, and if so what would be the cost and degree of diffuculty associated with that venture?
it is an 87 3.9L V6
if its carbureted I would imagine you could do a tbi swap. I plan on eventually doing this to my truck. We will need to convince flem to help tho
FUnny, my ZJ has fuel injection. Seems to work pretty well:flipoff2: